View Full Version : Tru-Arc timing & Tiller settings
02-13-2007, 08:53 AM
I have a Cougar III SE fitted with TRU-Arc cams. The bow is fantastic.
On checking the settings after it had string and cables replaces I noticed that the cams appear to be slightly out of sync, by that I mean when I look at the position of one of the holes on the cam, it is in a slightly different place in the top cam to the bottom cam. Does this matter and how would I adjust this?
Also, I measured the distance between the limb pockets and the shooting string. The bottom distance is about 0.25" less than the top measurement. How critical is this? Should they be the same and how would I adjust this?
All help is greatly appreciated.
02-13-2007, 09:30 AM
I have a very similar problem with truarc+ cams, timing seems to be off, and tiller measurements are different. I would also like to know if this is something I should worry about and how easy is it to make the adjustments.
02-13-2007, 10:40 PM
O.K. fellas...it goes something like this: Cam timing is actually rather important and for a tru-arc+cam you will need a bow press. As to diagnose the exact problem: as you come to full draw and the bottom cam meets its cable and the top cam is short of meeting its cable...you twist the "split string" until both cams touch together(once again you must press the bow to twist the string)....NEXT....if as you come to full draw and the top cam meets its cable and the bottom cam is not...you twist the "control string" until both cams meet together!!!!
I know your going to ask this, so: "which way do you twist? right? If it gets worse go back the other way in either case. Oh, and only go a twist at a time before checking....if you get down to critical do a half turn at a time. Hope that explains it good enough...this info should have been in your bow manual.
As for "tiller" hey, that is a preference thing....Martin will tell you "0" tiller is optimum and I would agree!!! (.025" is exceptable by Martins standards) it is easy to fix however...adjustment is made by rotating a limb bolt in or out to achieve desired "tiller". However, as Martin will warn you and so won't I...this may more then likely effect nocking point and peep sight levels...just so you know the "side effects" of messing with "tiller"!!! But I would go with ZERO "tiller" if I was you...just my preference and opinion!!!
Hope I helped you guys out!!!! And if you don't have a bow press, well, you know that story...off to the pro-shop or buy one for yourself!!! A portable is not to spendy out of Cabela's, and very compact and handy to have out in the field if you break a string anyways!!! Especially if you are a long ways out in the boone docks!!!
02-14-2007, 11:00 AM
Cheers for the information. The string hits the stops on the bottom cam first so its the split string I need to adjust (how many twists can you put in a string?). Once I have the timing right I will check the tiller again.
02-15-2007, 02:41 AM
Great, glad you got my info...as for twists...it won't take much to see a noticeable change! As for strings, they don't care much about multiple twists unless you go crazy and twist it twenty times or something like that. just kidding you...you won't even get remotely close to something like that...you will actually be amazed how fast one twist will change things...that is why I mentioned the half twist if you go over the breaking point to the other side of wrong timing for your cam!!!! Love these new cables(split and control)they make it so easy for timing a cam!!! As for a dual cam like I shoot...they are a little bit more sensitive but the principal is still the same!!! Good luck and if you have anymore questions, I will be happy to answer them if I can, the mechanical part I am confident in...mostly because I check and study my info before I answer....kinda like your own on-line pro-shop...except I actually do it, test it, and test it, and take it to the field for it's final test and heck you get the jest....you will get no bull here, just the cow!!!!ha ha
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