new cables for M70 Pantera

[dodl]

Hello,

Sorry for crossposting, i started the same Thread at archerytalk.
And some minutes ago i remembered, i wanted to post it here too.

I really like to shoot my old bow, but now the steel cables are about 14 years old and i am afraid they could break. Here in Vienna, nobody wants to touch a bow that old, so i'll have to do it myself. I did a lot of work on that bow and know how to disassemble and reassemble it. This should not be a big problem. BUT, i had a broken limb in '97. Now Martin sent new limbs immediately, but i do not have a decal on the new limbs.
This is the bow on the next picture. They sent "Black Panther" limbs, but since they fit and i think all 16" glass limbs were the same, i put them on the riser and they worked great for years.

http://members.chello.at/martin.heller/bogen 003.jpg

There are several problems now. I had a close look at the cable charts at the martin homepage. But i do not have a teardrop system, and i do not have a split string system. It's more some kind of "split steel cable system"
Also the ultrasonic wheels do not look like the ones i found on the net. Mine look pretty different. Maybe there were different versions around?
You can see it on the following pictures. Now i don't know which length the cables should have...

http://members.chello.at/martin.heller/bogen 001.jpg

http://members.chello.at/martin.heller/bogen 004.jpg

Now, is it possible to find out the correct length for the steel cables? And the correct length for the string? I remeber the decal said 62" stringlength. I currently have a heavily twisted 61" string on the bow and it's to long. Just look at the picture above. It would wear or break if i'd shoot the bow now.
Finally - Is there somebody out there who still makes steel cables?

And the last despaired idea:

Could i change to a split string system, when i cut the steel cables, leave the green marked parts as some kind of "spacer" at the cam, and put a cable anchor at the red marked screw? Of course new axles and then mount anchors at the outside of the limb for the split string. Could this work?

http://members.chello.at/martin.heller/cam.jpg

If anybody wonders, why i want to re-activate this old bow...
I just like it. It is loud as hell, it has a pretty good hand shock, it isn't the fastest bow around - but i like it. It was my first real bow, i can shoot it pretty good and thanks to STS i was able to teach him manners
And i think, for a 14 year old bow it still looks pretty hot and is in good condition.
So please, if anybody has some idea, it would really help.

many thanks
martin

[bfisher]

I just looked in my parts catalog and I think you need to send this same email (with pictures) directly to Martin Archery. I see in the parts catalog they have steel cables with "ball" ends. They may be able to help you not only with that but with identifying the bow also.

The factory boys don't get on here a lot. It's more a site for us Martin fans and shooters. Wish you well.

Barry

[dodl]

Hello,

Thanks for replying in both threads :)

I sent JoelC an email and hope he knows what to do.
If not, i'll try a mail @ martinarchery too.

thanks
martin

[Myk]

I like the idea of converting it to string material cables.

I'm not clear on how the ball end is attached but I would think there should be some way to work a loop to attach. A cylinder with a string groove cut into it that floats where the ball is held perhaps.

[dodl]

Hello,

Or maybe i could use Zcams instead of the supersonics.
They are available cheap. Identical data in module and string charts, and they are already designed for use with string cables.

The M70 was built with supersonics and Zcam, and since the data for cable length and draw length modules are the same, i suppose there won't be much change in peak draw weight?

For a simple conversion of the existing wheels, i thought of using the same piece as for the string to be able to attach a loop?

thanks
martin