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View Full Version : Bow tuning issues, Cheetah bow, QAD drop-away



pizzadave
08-21-2011, 02:49 PM
hey all... I am sure if I dig deeper into some threads I can find this answer, but I really want it now haha..... I just got my bow back 2 weeks ago from having my limbs replaced, and what not. I got the idler lean out, the STS aligned, and began paper tuning. I got my vertical tear PERFECT, but I am hitting arrow fieldpoint right about 3/4'' of an inch. I am tuning at about 6' from the paper, and I will tell you my bow specs. I am shooting a 2010 martin cheetah, set to 66-67 lbs, with Carbon Express mayhem 350 arrows. I believe my spine is good, because i had a good tear with my bow using my NAP quicktune 360 arrow rest. I opted for the drop away because the 360 brushes made a lot of noise on the draw with the carbon weave arrows. Just curious as to what else I can really do or if people have some answers on the set up of the drop away rest. I have the launcher sitting perfectly vertical at full draw, with the white marks lined up with each other, not over extending it or anything. Just trying to get it figured out since deer season is coming up, and my practicing has been cut short due to the damaged bow. I'd like to get shooting a lot more here so I can be as prepared as I possibly can. Thanks all!

Destroyer
08-21-2011, 03:06 PM
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pizzadave
08-23-2011, 02:56 AM
yeah... sorry, nock left. I thought I would move the rest the other way? As far as underspined, I didn't think that was possible, because those arrows I thought may be close to overspined.... The arrows are 28'', draw lenth is 30.

Destroyer
08-23-2011, 04:04 PM
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pizzadave
08-24-2011, 08:23 AM
Thanks guys for the pointers. I hope to get it dialed in tonight ! I'll post after I am done

bfisher
08-24-2011, 08:29 AM
Check the Tuning forum. At the top there is a link to Easton's Tuning Guide. This might be of some help. Pay particular attention to the next to last paragraph at the bottom of page 7; about release shooters sometimes getting an opposite arrow reaction when tuning.

Destroyer
08-24-2011, 02:34 PM
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bfisher
08-24-2011, 05:46 PM
Happens to me. When testing spine I have to have to try a stiffer spine or heavier point to see if I'm going the right way.

I usually just crank on the limb bolts, up or down, and pay attention to shaft reaction. Also it should be noted that I do this with bare shafts first. A shaft that planes to the right is almost always too stiff in my bow (opposite of the charts).

Changing the bow's draw weight is simple and free. If I have to take off two turns to get good flight then so be it. Poundage is just a number. I'm not stupid. Why waste another $100+ for new arrows when maybe 3-5# less`draw weight will accomplish the same thing and even make the bow more controllable, too. Kill two birds with one stone.

Now, if it seems that myarows are too stiff I'll get lighter shafts. I refuse to turn the bow up beyond my comfort zone.

pizzadave
08-24-2011, 05:52 PM
I had a rough try at tuning today. I still have a nock left tear, about a 1/2'' is as close as I got it. Read the easton guide, and I am going to try it again tomorrow. I was looking at the initial setup portion of the easton guide, and I was wondering how important it is to get the initial nocking point centered on the string with my particular bow. Does this apply to older bows, or is this something that I need to abide by? I was thinking I am fine, considering my vertical tear is in check. I just need to work my rest in small incriments I think and I will be able to get it. The one MAJOR worry I am seeing is the fact that I am seeing that my fletching must be making contact with the rest. Both prongs show rub marks from the blazer vanes. I know many people say that they use this drop away rest without issues with blazers hitting, but this really bothers me. I have the rest sitting vertical, when at full draw, the cable tension is perfect, and everything, but I still seem to be hitting. It has hit enough to the point where the felt is starting to tear off. I am curious though, how my vertical tear is ok if it is hitting like this? Using my bow square I measure 3/8'' from the bottom of my launcher to the middle of my nock, which seems high to me? Maybe I am crazy, but hopefully I can spend some more serious time tuning tomorrow.

cyclepath
08-24-2011, 06:29 PM
Not quite sure what you think the problem is with your qad. Have you tryed shooting from 10 or 20 yards?
If you are still getting the same tears from back aways you'll have a good starting point.
However, if you are getting an opposite tear then you were at 6 feet you have a spine problem.

Destroyer
08-24-2011, 07:06 PM
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pizzadave
08-25-2011, 02:44 AM
I used talcum powder to see if I am hitting, and I leave powder on the prongs almost every time. How do I adjust the timing of the rest? I have just the cheap hunter version, and the instructions that came with it were crap..... I am guessing that small allen screw in place by the cord?

bfisher
08-25-2011, 05:11 AM
I know the QAD and Ripcord are similar rests in that you cock them with an arrow on and the cord is supposed to release the mechanism so the rest drops at the shot. So the cord has to be short enough to trip the mechanism. However, if it's too short then it will hold the launchers up too long and contact is likely. This could be your problem or at least part of the problem.

As for the left tear? It's been my experience with my Martin/Rytera bows that they like the rest inside center. Don't ask me why, but that's how it is. It might not seem right, but I have learned never to argue with the bow. Make the adjustments you need and see what happens.

Also, just a question, but is it possible you are torquing the bow?

pizzadave
08-26-2011, 10:17 AM
thanks for all the pointers, I am going to make sure the bow is right before I mess with the tuning. I checked my draw stop and think I had that already good to go. I also had a good starting point with arrow alignment, but the one thing I need to check is my timing of the drop away to make sure it is in check. I know the rest is being raised to it's fire position like it is supposed to (the two white lines line up) The one thing I KNOW I am not doing right is shooting at shoulder height. Not sure how much that effects the paper tune, but I am shooting a target that is probably a good 8 inches lower than shoulder height..... Also, I use newspaper for tuning, never asked but is that a good paper for the test?

pizzadave
08-26-2011, 02:13 PM
I wanted let everybody know that I got it tuned! I dialed in the cam draw stop and that changed EVERYTHING. I wasn't going over the module by much, but I adjusted it so it looks more like the cam in the picture, and it made for a much better starting point. I then did some minor nocking point and rest adjustments, and got it to a perfeft tear. The other things I made damn sure I'd was to focus like I was shooting something that mattered versus a piece of paper and target, and with that cam greater now hand relaxation, and my anchor point being solid. Thanks to all who gave me inout, now I get to sight it in tomorrow. I set my 20 yard pin to 3 5/8" above my arrow as the starting point thanks to sonnys quick bow setup tips. I am sighting in to 20 30 40 & 50 yards tomorrow and should be golden for deer season..... then.... practicing hardcore

Destroyer
08-26-2011, 03:03 PM
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