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darkember
11-07-2011, 10:47 AM
I have noticed a 2-3 degree lean to the left on my idler wheel which concerns me about potencial string derailments. I have read the thread on bow measurements but need some more detailed info.

1: When I loosen the limbs how far do I need to go before I can safely remove the cables?
2: Do I need to loosen each limb in increments ie: 1 turn at a time for example?
3: What will expect to occur when I remove the lean side cable, ie: will it immediatly untwist if it was twisted?
4: If the statement in question 3 does not happen, should I apply equal & opposite twists to the other cable?
5: When retensioning the limbs again is it 1 turn per limb?

Much appreciated

Dark (alias Wil)

peace
11-07-2011, 11:24 AM
I do two or three turns and then equalize it with the opposite side but I just don't go beyond five unless I am preparing to remove the limbs completely and even then it is not a rule.

Usually about three turns and the strings are just about ready to come off. Once you do it you will see. It's not rocket science so don't be overly concerned. Any problems just check back in here with pictures which always help.

When adjusting poundage from the total to set the actual draw weight that is when I go in 1 turn increments.

HawgEnvy
11-07-2011, 11:36 AM
the barrel nuts just below the limb pocket. turn the limb bolts back in even amounts(top 2 turns,bottom 2 turns) until you can see the bottom of the limb bolt in the barrel nut.
2)at this point you should be able to remove the cable. if cam leans to the left,twist the right cable a couple twists at a time. if right,twist left cable.
3) nothing strange should happen when removing the cable from its post
4)once you have a couple twists in the cable,put it back on its post. make sure the limbs didn't move from their seated position and turn the limb bolts back in even amounts(2 turns top,2turns bottom).

i wouldn't worry about returning the bow to its previous draw weight. just putting enough tension on the string to see if you got the lean straightened out should be sufficient. if all looks good,rock on

gravedigger
11-07-2011, 03:18 PM
do as the above folke said.but measure your ATA to see what side need adjusting and make twists as need.but try ro keep the bow isn spect.after your done measure againto make sure both sides are even.

darkember
11-08-2011, 11:26 AM
do as the above folke said.but measure your ATA to see what side need adjusting and make twists as need.but try ro keep the bow isn spect.after your done measure againto make sure both sides are even.

Just to clarify. ATA for Martin bows: is it taken from the center of the axles or from the outsides?

Spiker
11-08-2011, 12:56 PM
Center to center with limbs bottomed out.

darkember
11-08-2011, 02:38 PM
Cool. Another query being english bottomed out & topped out. Topped out in the uk would mean full draw weight 70lbs +. Is that what u refer to as bottomed out?

Spiker
11-08-2011, 02:49 PM
Yes - all measurements/adjustments should be made with the limb bolts turned all the way in.
They then can be turned out an equal amount of turns, top and bottom, if you are not going to shoot the bow at
it's maximun draw weight.

darkember
11-10-2011, 12:25 PM
Ok this afternoon I have been loosening off the limbs to remove the 2 degree to the left lean at the rear of the idler wheel.

What I have noticed is the more twists I add to the right hand cable to sort out the left rear lean the more the front side will lean. Am i doing it correctly or is there a happy medium where there will always be a little lean?? Will try & get some photos to show what I mean.

Having had a close look at the photo in the bow measurment thread the rear is perfectly aligned but from that picture I cannot see what is happening off the front of the idler wheel, the arrow is blocking the view. From where the double pulley wheel is located at the centre of the bow it stands to reason that there will be a lean off the front of the idler wheel.

Hutch~n~Son Archery
11-10-2011, 12:36 PM
Hey darkember, pics will help greatly. Usually the yoke is twisted up on the cable rod side. Then measure the ata to make sure they are the same when you are done. You don't want your ata to be under or over 1/4"




Hutch:cool:

bfisher
11-10-2011, 03:34 PM
Ok this afternoon I have been loosening off the limbs to remove the 2 degree to the left lean at the rear of the idler wheel.

What I have noticed is the more twists I add to the right hand cable to sort out the left rear lean the more the front side will lean. Am i doing it correctly or is there a happy medium where there will always be a little lean?? Will try & get some photos to show what I mean.

Having had a close look at the photo in the bow measurment thread the rear is perfectly aligned but from that picture I cannot see what is happening off the front of the idler wheel, the arrow is blocking the view. From where the double pulley wheel is located at the centre of the bow it stands to reason that there will be a lean off the front of the idler wheel.

It sounds like you have done it correctly. Ideally you want the string coming off the back of the cam straight. The front will be what it is because of the string being pulled toward the cable rod or in your case the CCS. The only thing you might want to keep an eye on is fraying where the string comes off the front of the idler. The shorter the bow the more angle there is and the more possiblity of the string rubbing the outer edge of the wheel. If this happens don't keep shooting the bow or think, like some people, that getting custom strings or serving this area is going to cure the problem. What you'll have to do is take a couple twists out of the yoke and live with some cam lean.

darkember
11-11-2011, 10:18 AM
It sounds like you have done it correctly. Ideally you want the string coming off the back of the cam straight. The front will be what it is because of the string being pulled toward the cable rod or in your case the CCS. The only thing you might want to keep an eye on is fraying where the string comes off the front of the idler. The shorter the bow the more angle there is and the more possiblity of the string rubbing the outer edge of the wheel. If this happens don't keep shooting the bow or think, like some people, that getting custom strings or serving this area is going to cure the problem. What you'll have to do is take a couple twists out of the yoke and live with some cam lean.

That answer has cleared up lots thanks. I have also noticed that the lean completley vannishes when the bow is at full draw. I feel I am pretty close to the sweet point. Thanks again

darkember
11-28-2011, 12:38 PM
Finally got all the lean cleared off the rear of the idler wheel. It took at alot of twists to get there but everything is straight & square. I'm one happy man:)

elkslayer4x5
12-01-2011, 07:40 AM
How's the bow grouping now?

darkember
12-01-2011, 10:17 AM
Waiting for the arrows will let you know.

bfisher
12-01-2011, 02:53 PM
Finally got all the lean cleared off the rear of the idler wheel. It took at alot of twists to get there but everything is straight & square. I'm one happy man:)

Good for you. One thing I often hear is people suggesting putting a couple twists in one side of the yoke. As you may have found out, "A couple twists my azz". Try anywhere from 5 to 16 twists. A couple isn't going to do squat.