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View Full Version : Older Bengal Possibly '97: Lots o' Questions...



Tony
10-05-2007, 05:40 PM
I have an older Bengal that I purchased in 2001. I know precious little about bows and basically depend on the various archery shops. I bought this one at a hunting show. The archery shop that sold it to me is pretty far away from where I live so I haven't been back there in quite a while. The shooting string wore out last year, so I found an archery shop about a half hour from here and had them replace it. It was quite costly ($90+) for the string and installation. I think the string was about $60. Well, long story short, it wore out on me already and I haven't shot it that much. 4 strands broke already -- they said it's because I'm hitting my arm guard -- which I have. But the original string periodically hit my arm guard also, but lasted 5 years. The only place near me that shows up as a Martin dealer is not really an archery shop per se. They are really a sporting goods store that has an archery center in it and they were always too busy to take any time with me, so I went elsewhere. The archery shop I go to know seems to have very knowledgeable staff, but I'm still concerned that I may not be getting the best information specific to my bow. That being said, I have a few questions about my bow...

How can I tell what kind of cams are on it?
How do I know how long the shooting string is supposed to be? The shop measured the string on it and is ordering me a 30" string. The tech specs for Bengals looks like it should be 29" if it's teardrop style.
What is teardrop and how do I know if that's what I have? I'm assuming that's what I have since the other specs showed much longer strings.
What happens if you put a 30" string on it when it should have a 29" string if that is the case?
How do I tell what the draw length is supposed to be? I was measured today for a 26" draw and thought that was what I had, but my original receipt shows 27"
Why does it seem so danged loud compared to my brother's much less expensive bow?

tood s
10-07-2007, 12:14 AM
I actually own the same bow i forget the string length. I can tell you that this bow comes with ultra sonic wheels. When i shot this bow i was getting 240 fps with 2018's cut @ 26 1/2 " ( i shot with an overdraw) . As to why your bow is loud ? I dunno my is quiet as can be with puffer balls as string silencers. Now are you sure its a Bengal?? mine doesn't have the teat drops for the string mine anchors on the wheels.. Let me know how you make out..

Tony
10-07-2007, 07:31 AM
Thanks for the reply. I'm quite sure it's the Bengal. Just not sure of the year. I bought it in 2001. It looks like from the website that it wasn't made for a few years, then came back. I don't have any pictures to post of it and it's still at the shop. Is the teardrop the metal piece that it hooks onto just above/below the cams?

Tony
10-23-2007, 07:32 AM
I called Martin's tech line and got some answers. Also got my bow back. I'm glad I kept it. Here are the answers to the questions I posted previously:
(The bow was made sometime between '97-'99.)
1- I have Z cams on my bow.
2- I have a teardrop style and it uses a 29" string. The little metals "things" below the cams where the shooting string attaches is how you can tell.
3- The 30" string DEFINITELY lengthened the draw. Now that I have the correct string length and I'm not hyper-extending my left arm to fully draw the bow; I'm not hitting my arm guard. In fact, I don't need one anymore except to keep my sleeves out of the way.
4- The draw length should be 26" now- I think I can look on the cam parts to see which kit is installed. That should tell me what the length is. At any rate, it's the proper length now.
5- Maybe the bow isn't as loud as I thought. It's still louder than my brother's single cam bow which is newer than mine, but some string jax helped a lot too.


I have an older Bengal that I purchased in 2001. I know precious little about bows and basically depend on the various archery shops. I bought this one at a hunting show. The archery shop that sold it to me is pretty far away from where I live so I haven't been back there in quite a while. The shooting string wore out last year, so I found an archery shop about a half hour from here and had them replace it. It was quite costly ($90+) for the string and installation. I think the string was about $60. Well, long story short, it wore out on me already and I haven't shot it that much. 4 strands broke already -- they said it's because I'm hitting my arm guard -- which I have. But the original string periodically hit my arm guard also, but lasted 5 years. The only place near me that shows up as a Martin dealer is not really an archery shop per se. They are really a sporting goods store that has an archery center in it and they were always too busy to take any time with me, so I went elsewhere. The archery shop I go to know seems to have very knowledgeable staff, but I'm still concerned that I may not be getting the best information specific to my bow. That being said, I have a few questions about my bow...

How can I tell what kind of cams are on it?
How do I know how long the shooting string is supposed to be? The shop measured the string on it and is ordering me a 30" string. The tech specs for Bengals looks like it should be 29" if it's teardrop style.
What is teardrop and how do I know if that's what I have? I'm assuming that's what I have since the other specs showed much longer strings.
What happens if you put a 30" string on it when it should have a 29" string if that is the case?
How do I tell what the draw length is supposed to be? I was measured today for a 26" draw and thought that was what I had, but my original receipt shows 27"
Why does it seem so danged loud compared to my brother's much less expensive bow?

bfisher
10-23-2007, 10:17 AM
I called Martin's tech line and got some answers. Also got my bow back. I'm glad I kept it. Here are the answers to the questions I posted previously:
(The bow was made sometime between '97-'99.)
1- I believe that I'm using Z cams on my bow. Forgot to check the markings, but I'm pretty sure that's correct. I'll edit this to correct it if I find out differently.
2- I have a teardrop style and it uses a 29" string. The little metals "things" below the cams where the shooting string attaches is how you can tell.
3- The 30" string DEFINITELY lengthened the draw. Now that I have the correct string length and I'm not hyper-extending my left arm to fully draw the bow; I'm not hitting my arm guard. In fact, I don't need one anymore except to keep my sleeves out of the way.
4- The draw length should be 26" now- I think I can look on the cam parts to see which kit is installed. That should tell me what the length is. At any rate, it's the proper length now.
5- Maybe the bow isn't as loud as I thought. It's still louder than my brother's single cam bow which is newer than mine, but some string jax helped a lot too.

See if I can expand on a couple things. #1, you made the call and have found Martin's customer service to be pretty good.

Dealing with the noise. The bow is probably more quiet now than before, right? Well, any cam bow will make more noise and vibration if the cams are over rotated, as your's was with too long a string.

Teardrops? That's those little metal "things" you are referring to at the end of your steel cables. Do yourself a favor and measure the length of your string on the bow, teardrop to teardrop. The string is likely to creep (elongate) and need adjusted later.

As for hitting your arm? Take a trip over to www.archerytalk.com and hit the search function. You're looking for something on draw length or grip. A guy named Nuts&Bolts has some very good posts with pictures. You might want to check especially about your grip and modify as necessary. This will help even more with arm clearance.

While you're there take the time to register and fill out your profile.There is a ton of stuff to be learned on that site. 70,000+ archers helping archers.

Good luck to you.

Tony
10-23-2007, 03:14 PM
See if I can expand on a couple things. #1, you made the call and have found Martin's customer service to be pretty good.

Dealing with the noise. The bow is probably more quiet now than before, right? Well, any cam bow will make more noise and vibration if the cams are over rotated, as your's was with too long a string.

Teardrops? That's those little metal "things" you are referring to at the end of your steel cables. Do yourself a favor and measure the length of your string on the bow, teardrop to teardrop. The string is likely to creep (elongate) and need adjusted later.


Thanks for the reply bfisher.
Just a couple more comments. The help from customer service was good once I got them to respond. After calling in, I was told someone would call me back "tomorrow". The rep happened to call me when I was on my motorcycle going home and I couldn't answer. No message was left and when I called back, I was told I would have to wait another day. That was a bit disappointing that I was basically put at the back of the line when I missed the call. That being said, once I got someone, the information was good.

About the teardrop. I think that's how I ended up with the wrong size string to begin with. The guy measured it and I heard him mumble something about "it couldn't have stretched that much". I'm guessing my 29" string must have stretched pretty close to 30" so he just made that assumption. That turned out to cost me quite a lot as I had to have it re-strung again.

So, once it stretches, what do I do to fix it? How is it adjusted? Do I need a bow press?

Also, any idea why I'm not getting my email notifications for this thread? It says I'm subscribed to it. I checked my email address and it's correct. I checked my junk folder and it's not there either. Is there a known issue with Yahoo?
Thanks,
Tony

bfisher
10-23-2007, 05:59 PM
I don't know why you aren't getting an email. I suggest you check the UserCP at the top of the page and check that yours is in order. Maybe you overlooked something.

You asked how to adjust if the string crept over time. You just need to twist up the string. As I mentioned before your cables (steel) are not going to stretch any appreciable amount. Once you have the drawlength axactly the way you want it mark the side of the cams where they pass through the limb forks. A pencil mark will do fine or even a sharpie if you want it ti be semi-permanent. If the string creeps then all you do is twist it tillthe line on the cam line up where you originally put them. This will get the draw length back to where you had it.

I'm not up on your p[articular bow, but most Martin bows have long enough limb bolts that you can back them out far enough to relieve he pressure from the limbs. Do your limb bolts pass through a steel barrel nut in the riser? You can tell by looking at the side of the riser where the bolts attach. If it does then you can actually see the limb bolt in the nut. If it doesn't have them then you might have to use a bow press. HINT,HINT---Bowmasteer portable press--$40.

How much the string might creepis totally dependent on it's length and the quality of the string itself. 29" shouldn't creep very much and if it's of any quality then it should be negligible. Just remember that this is a dual cam bow. If your marks move 1/4" then that equate to 1/2" more in draw length. It's not something you need to look at every day. Check it after a few hundred shots and adjust if necessary. Then maybe once a month if you shoot a lot. That's where them thar cam marks come in handy.

Tony
10-23-2007, 06:54 PM
Thanks again. This is good information -- though I'm having a little trouble picturing exactly what you mean. Then again the bow isn't right in front of me. This is where it would come in handy to have friend that really knew what he was doing and lived close by. The archery shop is always glad to help--for a price. Heck I even had to pay two dollars to have them check the draw weight on their scale after spending over $100 for other work. You'd think they'd throw that in for free. Which brings me to another question.... He said it was at 62.9#. Each turn of the nut raises it 2# right? So if you turn the top and the bottom one turn, it raises it by 4#. So I got a hankering to raise the poundage a bit. I have such a short draw, that I'm always worried (unnecessarily I'm sure) that I don't have enough umph in my arrows. My brother teases me that my arrows look like cross-bow bolts--and they're darned close to it. Anyway, was only able to turn one of the bolts a whole turn (top I think) and the other only turned about 3/4 before it wouldn't go any further. So I have two questions:
1- I'm assuming I should be pretty close to the max of 70# and the guy's scale is probably off a bit -- or my bow won't quite make 70#?
2- Did I screw anything up by doing that? I couldn't even put it back because I was stupid and didn't let the whiteout I used to mark it dry completely and it smeared. It seems to be shooting ok though. If both top and bottom are maxed out, then they should be even, right?

bfisher
10-24-2007, 12:01 PM
Yes Tony, whenever you back out the limb bolts you do them evenly. As a general rule you get 3# for each complete turn (both bolts). So it's possible that your bow is only getting about 65#. Could be that the string is a tad short. If he's using a digital scale I doubt that it is off by much.

I wouldn't get too concerned about it. I only shoot a 27" draw and shoot very light arrows by most people's standards, uaually around 315gr for a hunting arrow. My draw weight is normally around 53# to 55# and I'd estimate that I get complete pass throughs on deer 90% of the time or more. For deer sized game it's not as critical as some think. Shot placement is much more critical than a ton of kinetic energy. A lot of energy that doesn't hit the vitals isn't going to do a lot of good.

Just be more concerened with how the bow fits you for draw length and that you can easily handle the weight. That meaning you should be able to shoot at least 30-50 shots without tiring much. Afterall, it's hard to learn how to shoot for form and accuracy if you are struggling with the bow.

Tony
10-24-2007, 01:58 PM
I hate to keep pestering you, but you seem pretty darn knowledgeable and I know very little. So now that I have both of those limb bolts cranked all the way down, it that bad? Should I back them off a turn. Also, did I knock it out of tune when one turned all the way and the other didn't? or since they're both maxed out, they should be even? I'm worried I screwed something up -- even though it seems to be shooting ok for now.

What's funny--or not--I spent quite a bit on the bow last year and this year and have only taken it out hunting a couple of times. I had a trip planned for this Thurs.- Sat., and now it's going to pour down raining the whole time. I'm definitely spending a disproportionate amount on this bow since I spend most of my time hunting during muzzleloading season.