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NeilMac
12-29-2011, 05:05 AM
I am thinking about repainting one of my Shadowcats. It currently has the factory leopard spot camo, and I'm more of a black satin finish sort of person.

I am more than capable of doing all the work myself, but is there any particular paint that suits best.

Please bear in mind that I'm in the UK, so paint type, as opposed to 'xyz brand available at Wall Mart is good', as we probably don't have that brand over here, and we definitely don't have Wall Mart.

MLN1963
12-29-2011, 05:24 AM
I think most of the rattle cans are water based these days. IMO they aren't that great but that is what we are stuck with, in the USA anyway, thanks to the EPA. All I have is WalMart in my neck of the woods so it is all I know.

Are you using a spray can or automotive type paints?

I think that a thorough prep removing all dust, oils, greases with a proper product is paramount. After that a self-etching primer to really stick to the bow's surface and give the paint something to adhere to. Then another degreasing/prep and spray on your paint.

I think HawgEnvy(?) has painted a couple bows so he may chime in.

NeilMac
12-29-2011, 06:07 AM
I would prefer to use spray cans if I can, although I can get my hands on spray equipment if required.

I thought about powder coating, but as the Cat has a three piece riser, this may lead to cracking around the joins as the various bits of steel / alloy cool down at different rates.

Etch primer is a good tip, thanks, I have used this a lot in the past when spraying custom motorcycle parts.

Spiker
12-29-2011, 08:27 AM
Powdercoating wont cause any problems as long as you cool the piece down gradually.
Rather than pull the piece out when it has reached its cure time - just shut the oven down and let the piece
cool down slowly inside untill it reaches ambient temp.

martin hunter
12-30-2011, 03:43 AM
I have a Scepter which I had the riser powdercoated and painted the limbs with bumper paint. I did it in flat black, been using it for a few years now with no problem of paint cracking or peeling. Bumper paint is plyable so wont crack.

NeilMac
12-30-2011, 04:04 AM
That's a good tip, thanks.

Limbs don't need painting; I have carbon finished Barnsdale's with the Martin logo and another pair from a Rytera. It's just the leopard spot riser I'm not keen on.

Buzz Lite Beer
12-30-2011, 05:34 AM
We seem to be following a similar path Neil, I'm on stripping my bow for a respray too, getting my talented nephew to do the spraying, in the mean time I'm currently doing the paint laborious paint/film removal, if you can do a fair job with an aerosol I'd still strongly recommend you give it a blast over with a good lacquer from a proper air spray gun when you have done with the painting, with most aerosol lacquers the propellant doesn't evaporate properly and you can never get a decent finish.

darkember
12-30-2011, 07:46 AM
I would like to return mine to polished alluminium & laquer. How easy would that be to achieve?

Buzz Lite Beer
12-30-2011, 08:01 AM
A nightmare lies ahead for you, as I said mine is mid strip (using Nitromors Paint Remover) and the finish of the bare metal that lies beneath will need a heck of a lot of polishing to get to anodising/bare metal lacquered finish standard, and all the holes/cut outs in a riser just make the job a whole lot more tedious.

darkember
12-30-2011, 08:08 AM
A nightmare lies ahead for you, as I said mine is mid strip (using Nitromors Paint Remover) and the finish of the bare metal that lies beneath will need a heck of a lot of polishing to get to anodising/bare metal lacquered finish standard, and all the holes/cut outs in a riser just make the job a whole lot more tedious.

Thought as much, I ride big bikes try doing it on an engine block:):)

EnglishKev
12-30-2011, 08:10 AM
I would prefer to use spray cans if I can, although I can get my hands on spray equipment if required.

I thought about powder coating, but as the Cat has a three piece riser, this may lead to cracking around the joins as the various bits of steel / alloy cool down at different rates.

Etch primer is a good tip, thanks, I have used this a lot in the past when spraying custom motorcycle parts.

My black AX has a factory powdercoated riser and the same three piece construction as your Cat, so it is not an insurmountable problem.

As your riser is already anodized, you may not need the etching primer if you don't take it back to bare ali.
Have a look at the 'Plasticote' range, all sorts of colors and finishes.

Kev

NeilMac
12-30-2011, 10:30 AM
Plasticote is a good idea, thanks Kev.

The only reason I am worried about powder coating, is because I would have to get a commercial company to do it, and finding someone who would take particular care of a riser could be pretty time consuming. Easier just to spray it at home.

Hutch~n~Son Archery
12-30-2011, 03:04 PM
I have done a lot of automotive and motorcycle painting. If you are going to do it and you want it to last. You need to use the right products. Here is a few links that might help.
http://www.houtsenterprises.net/dur_shakenspray.html
http://www.duracoat-firearm-finishes.com/
Check them out it is not impossible to do a pro job if you have the right stuff.



Hutch:cool:

Don B
12-30-2011, 03:20 PM
Neil,
Why don't you do it up with a swirl?
You can get the best paint on the planet for it there in the U.K. It's called magic marble,
go to www.theswirling.com and check it out.
Sence you don't hunt, why not go with something no one else would ever have the same as.
Don.

NeilMac
12-30-2011, 11:23 PM
Don.

What prep do you do to the risers you paint?

I tried looking up you old thread....it's out there somewhere, but I couldn't find it :rolleyes:

Montalaar
12-31-2011, 12:05 AM
Plasticote is a good idea, thanks Kev.

The only reason I am worried about powder coating, is because I would have to get a commercial company to do it, and finding someone who would take particular care of a riser could be pretty time consuming. Easier just to spray it at home.

Simple: Search for companies that powdercoat bikes or aluminium rims. They often do custom jobs on risers, too. And they have often most of the RAL-colors.

Don B
12-31-2011, 04:48 AM
Don.

What prep do you do to the risers you paint?

I tried looking up you old thread....it's out there somewhere, but I couldn't find it :rolleyes:

Neil,
I just lightly sand and primer the riser before I dip it.
I use Dupli-color primer and prepaint wipe spray. Then depending on the colors I am doing spray on a basecoat color. I used black when I did my bows. It would be best to play around with different basecoat colors because it will have a different effect for each colors used. Just use some 1x6 fencing slates, thats what I did. Just prep them as your would your riser.
If you have a set colors in mind let me know, I might have a pic of a test I did in the colors you like.
Don.

Arrow Splitter
12-31-2011, 04:54 AM
Here's the threads:http://martinarchery.com/mtechforum/showthread.php?19292-Painted-up-2-more-bows-today. http://martinarchery.com/mtechforum/showthread.php?18958-Painted-my-other-shadowcat

NeilMac
12-31-2011, 05:52 AM
Here's the threads:http://martinarchery.com/mtechforum/showthread.php?19292-Painted-up-2-more-bows-today. http://martinarchery.com/mtechforum/showthread.php?18958-Painted-my-other-shadowcat

Thanks AS, much appreciated.

Arrow Splitter
12-31-2011, 05:54 AM
Thanks AS, much appreciated.No problem, glad to help.

scepterman30x
12-31-2011, 06:57 AM
I am thinking about repainting one of my Shadowcats. It currently has the factory leopard spot camo, and I'm more of a black satin finish sort of person.

I am more than capable of doing all the work myself, but is there any particular paint that suits best.

Please bear in mind that I'm in the UK, so paint type, as opposed to 'xyz brand available at Wall Mart is good', as we probably don't have that brand over here, and we definitely don't have Wall Mart.

Consider yourself lucky.

darkember
01-01-2012, 05:05 AM
A nightmare lies ahead for you, as I said mine is mid strip (using Nitromors Paint Remover) and the finish of the bare metal that lies beneath will need a heck of a lot of polishing to get to anodising/bare metal lacquered finish standard, and all the holes/cut outs in a riser just make the job a whole lot more tedious.

Have you got any photos of your progress so far? Under the paint is the alu anodized or is it just a dull finnish?

Buzz Lite Beer
01-01-2012, 05:56 AM
Have you got any photos of your progress so far? Under the paint is the alu anodised or is it just a dull finish?

Just taken some pics:- Stripped riser would be a polishing finish nightmare should anyone wish to go that route, nothing anodised under the paint, very pitted and knocked about looking under the Black Carbon effect finish, so far got mine to bare metal, 1st stage primer filled and taken back down ready for spraying a 2nd time.

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/3811/cimg0722g.jpg
http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/1962/cimg0720b.jpg
http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/582/cimg0718n.jpg
http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/5365/cimg0719e.jpg

Going to leave limbs as they are, and fancying something like deep red metal flake or good old British racing green (target bow) for the paint at the minute but all depends on what the nephew has on his shelves, getting stabilisers done to match too, and taking the opertunity to build a new set of cables/string while it's in bits.

Buzz Lite Beer
01-31-2012, 08:34 AM
Well I like it!!!
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/8413/cimg0725aq.jpg
New strings made by me, everything in spec, Peep aligned just nice no rotation,
and only three bits left in the box
(intentionally left off STS and VEM's)