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View Full Version : Another question...Changing Draw Weight on Prowler SE



LondonDave
11-07-2007, 10:41 AM
The Prowler SE that I bought is rated at 55-70 lbs. Ideally I should have bought a bow with a lower draw weight because of a previous injury on my left are that makes it a little difficult to hold the bow back when drawing the string but I couldn't resist the deal I got on this one.

Is there any way of making the draw weight on this bow lighter by going to longer cables/strings or is it all in the limbs?

Since I don't have a scale of any sort to measure the draw weight, how far can I safely back off the bolt on the limbs? Is the a measurement guidline like 1/4" from the riser or something along those lines? I'd like to be able to back it off as far as possible without going too far.

Thanks again,

Dave

bfisher
11-07-2007, 06:10 PM
You can safely back the limb bolts out five turns. This should equate to about 15# or so. If you look at the riser from the side near the limb pockets you see a round (barrel" nut that the limb bolts thread into. Looking through it you can actually see the threads of the bolt. So long as you don't see the light of day through it you should be fine.

Giving an example. I have a 2007 Pantera that is 40-55#. Due to recent neck surgery I have it backed off pretty far. In the last week I've turned the weight up two full turns and the bow is still only peaking out at 30#.

LondonDave
11-07-2007, 07:59 PM
Thanks Barry,

So by the example that you're giving with your bow even though mine is rated at 55-70, I should be able to get it below that by backing off the limb bolts?

Is that the only way to change the draw weight other than going to lighter limbs?

I'm at work right now and the bow is at home so I can't check it but I think I'll crank the bolts right down and then back them off the 5 full turns to see where that gets me.

Dave

bfisher
11-08-2007, 06:18 AM
Dave,

What kind of weight are you trying to achieve? In my example I've got my bow backed off about about 25#, but please realize that is just temporary. I would never shoot a bow backed off that far on a permanent basis.

Bows just shoot more quiet and are slightly more efficient when shot at or near their max rating. If you are planning on shooting it at or near it's minimum then eventually I'd try to swap out the limbs.

When you back them off look on the side near the limb bolt and see what deflection rating your's are. It'll be something like 5H or something like that. Then maybe I can give you an idea of what limbs to look for later.

LondonDave
11-08-2007, 01:10 PM
Barry,

I'm not looking to do this on a permanent basis. I just want to have the ability to set the bow at a comfortable weight so I can start shooting it until I can build up the proper archery muscles which will allow me to eventually turn the weight up. My injured arm just needs some time to get used to holding back the bow and some repetative shooting to build up some strength.

The limbs are marked with "5H"

I've had a look at the limb bolts today. I see where you're talking about where the bolt goes through the riser. I haven't cranked them down and then backed them off yet but it seems I can back them off quite a bit more then what I have and I'm still not seeing daylight between the bottom of the limb bolt and the hole in the riser. I was able to back the bolts off a lot more than what I had them at which made it much easier and more comfortable to draw the bow back. This is safe as long as I'm not seeing the bottom of that bolt in the riser hole?

Thanks,

Dave

bfisher
11-08-2007, 06:23 PM
I think you might be OK Dave. At least you understand what I was saying aout the limb bolts and the amount of threads left in the barrel nut. To be truthful, it is said by many Martin experts that the limb bolts are long enough that the weight can be completely let off the bow so you can tear the bow down without a bow press. I personally haven't done it because I have a press.

The design of the limb pockets and limb alignment allows for this, too. Most boes rely on the limb pockets to keep the bow in line with the riser, whereas Martin's have those two "half-ballbearings" to the job.

Just as reference for you, to drop 10 pounds if changing limbs you would have to get 3H limbs. Two numbers down drops 10 pounds. You could even concievably put 4H limbs on it and have a bow that has a range of 50-65 lbs.

OK, I think we've beaten this one to death. What do you think?
Now go shoot it and have fun.

Any more questions any time. I'm always available unless I'm off to some tropical isle scuba diving.

Barry

LondonDave
11-08-2007, 06:41 PM
Thanks again Barry.

I think I'm pretty clear on this now. This morning I backed the bolts off a lot and they still didn't seem like they were anywhere close to showing the bottom of the threads through the hole in the riser. Good to know that Martin have made their bows in such a way to allow this.

Tomorrow I'm going to my local shop to buy some arroms and get a few other things set up properly for me and then I'll get practicing. Hopefully I'll get proficent enough to get out there before the end of this years Deer season (Dec. 31st here in Ontario, Canada)

Dave