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View Full Version : questions about an old bow (Martin Lynx magnum)



Gabriel454
02-13-2012, 09:08 AM
This bow is the old kind with wheels instead of cams. It is number 1376.

My questions:

Are there any manuals available for this old bow?
How many turns can the limb bolts be loosened?
Are there any bad habits that anyone knows of other than having a really spongy back wall?

I understand if nobody even remembers this bow. I just bought it to start practicing again and get back into the sport. I have not had a 'good' bow since 1990 and got this one with a case, some gold tip 5575 arrows a release and a quiver. It came with a Trophy ridge frontline sight and whisker biscuit rest.

The rest seems like it is too far away from the riser. How far should the arrow be from the riser?

Thanks for any info on this bow.

Double S
02-13-2012, 11:26 AM
Can you post some pics?. We love pics. Welcome to the forum.

Gabriel454
02-13-2012, 01:50 PM
What are the triangle things mounted in the cables?

5633

The arrows look like they should be closer to the riser to me.


5634

The sight has two good pins, the third one has malfunction because the optical strand is fractured all over the place.

563556365637

Gabriel454
02-13-2012, 01:58 PM
It has round wheels instead of cams so it's slow. Oh well I guess there are no cams to be had unless I make them myself because modern cams are too much for it. (What I was told over the phone by a Martin Tech.

So, I'm impatiently awaiting a new dacron string to come in the mail so I can shoot again.

I'm thinking about purchasing a martin Threshold bow. (I can't afford a more expensive one.)

EDIT:: Martin used to send a fiberglass rod with their bows that you can use to take the weight off the limbs by partially drawing the bow and sliding the rod through a specific place on the cam to lock it at partial draw...

Any of those still lying around?

Skbengal
02-14-2012, 12:38 PM
Doesn't seem that there's anything wrong with your rest.

Gabriel454
02-14-2012, 04:35 PM
Doesn't seem that there's anything wrong with your rest.

Cool. Thanks.

Skbengal
02-14-2012, 06:03 PM
By the way, that looks like a trophy ridge matrix sight. I have one myself. Call trophy ridge and you can send them your sight. For $15.95 they will replace all five pins for you. I love my sight and it's a lot cheaper than buying a new sight.

Gabriel454
02-14-2012, 07:42 PM
By the way, that looks like a trophy ridge matrix sight. I have one myself. Call trophy ridge and you can send them your sight. For $15.95 they will replace all five pins for you. I love my sight and it's a lot cheaper than buying a new sight.

Awesome! I had written them an email but they never wrote me back. Maybe phone calls go somewhere? =0)

I know, worst archer in the world right!?! I dropped my bow as I shot it after cranking up the poundage and it landed directly on the sight itself because I tried to catch it again. If I'd have left it alone it would have landed on the bottom cam probably the way it was headed. Anyways, I dropped it on the sight and it destroyed the sight alignment so I might as well take it off and send it somewhere while I wait for my new string to show up in the mail.

Thanks for the much needed tip!

Gabriel454
02-15-2012, 11:29 AM
string torque?

I am not sure whether or not the sight is torqued or if the limbs are no longer straight, but the string intersects the sight at an angle when drawn. Maybe the sight is not in the right position anymore and I'm looking slightly from the left past the string and the angle from anchor point to cam is causing the string to dissect the sight on a diagonal line? I mean the sight, the vertical line where the cams are and the string at anchor point are not on the same plane. What's up with that? does the string guide have that much influence on the position of the limbs, riser, and string?

benh
02-16-2012, 10:30 AM
ive owned two of these bows in their day. The triangle things are for adjusting the cam roll over. So you can time them together depending on whether you use a release aid or finger shooting.

Gabriel454
02-16-2012, 10:45 AM
ive owned two of these bows in their day. The triangle things are for adjusting the cam roll over. So you can time them together depending on whether you use a release aid or finger shooting.

COOL! How... Oh wait I get it, you use the screw to do the same like if you twisted the cable.

kenz
02-16-2012, 01:51 PM
I too had/have a Lynx magnum. Mine being a little older than yours. As for the string, arrow, and sight pin not lining up directly in plane with each other (I think I got that right), I would think not to worry. Main thing is that the arrow flies straight, and it hits where its aimed at.

As for the round wheels, I had the XL cam on mine, and a slightly newer larger version on my original Onza and trust me, although a little faster, they were brutal to shoot. In fact back in the day I swapped my Onza's cam for the new (back then anyway) Ultra Sonic wheel. Lots better.

As for the have/had part, originally it was a 1984 Lynx Magnum 40-55lb draw with XL cams. Shot it for years and then sold it to a buddy. He shot it for a few years and had a limb break. So he stripped everything off the riser and purchased recurve limbs for it (back then the Lynx was also available as a recurve). I since then bought it back and still shoot it today.

Gabriel454
02-16-2012, 07:51 PM
I too had/have a Lynx magnum. Mine being a little older than yours. As for the string, arrow, and sight pin not lining up directly in plane with each other (I think I got that right), I would think not to worry. Main thing is that the arrow flies straight, and it hits where its aimed at.

As for the round wheels, I had the XL cam on mine, and a slightly newer larger version on my original Onza and trust me, although a little faster, they were brutal to shoot. In fact back in the day I swapped my Onza's cam for the new (back then anyway) Ultra Sonic wheel. Lots better.

As for the have/had part, originally it was a 1984 Lynx Magnum 40-55lb draw with XL cams. Shot it for years and then sold it to a buddy. He shot it for a few years and had a limb break. So he stripped everything off the riser and purchased recurve limbs for it (back then the Lynx was also available as a recurve). I since then bought it back and still shoot it today.

I'd love to see the recurve limbs. How many pounds draw weight? I like this bow I have. I can see why so many were made. I like the wheels simply because they don't look like they might fold over at the slightest hand torque like many now do. I mean the new ones are larger around and look thin and flimsy especially at full draw and with thin areas bolted to them.

Gabriel454
02-16-2012, 11:54 PM
I'd love to see the recurve limbs. How many pounds draw weight? I like this bow I have. I can see why so many were made. I like the wheels simply because they don't look like they might fold over at the slightest hand torque like many now do. I mean the new ones are larger around and look thin and flimsy especially at full draw and with thin areas bolted to them.

I remembered my new/old bow grip from when I was a kid and my hand torque disappeared completely and now when I draw the bow it looks like everything is on exactly the same plane so that the string dissects the front sight with perfect vertical. =0) What I do is, curl up my pinky and ring finger on my bow hand so that when I draw with my string hand I have perfect alignment between my thumb nuckles. =0) Kinda hard to describe.

kenz
02-22-2012, 04:03 PM
I'd love to see the recurve limbs. How many pounds draw weight? I like this bow I have. I can see why so many were made. I like the wheels simply because they don't look like they might fold over at the slightest hand torque like many now do. I mean the new ones are larger around and look thin and flimsy especially at full draw and with thin areas bolted to them.

They haven't made the Lynx recurve in many years. With the current setup its #45 at 28" and 70" long if I remember. Have to go look at it. Extremely smooth draw and shooting bow. Nice thing with the older risers that are not cut out for broadhead clearance is that I can shoot 'off the shelf' like a traditional wood riser'd recurve. After the Lynx recurve they had the Aurora recurve, a machined riser bow. Always wanted one, but can never find one. Probably didn't make very many.

As for arrow alignment, what you can do is nock and arrow, then by looking down the arrow align the string with the center of the limb. The arrow and sight pins should also be in alignment with the string, or close. Depending on how old the bow is, in might not have true center shot. But this will get you close, then paper tune it to dial it in.

Sharxfan
02-22-2012, 05:29 PM
I must have the newer version of what you guys have....my Lynx Magnum has cams on it and I din't think they wre that brutal although it was my first compound so I had nothing to compare it to. Still have it and am thinking about restoring it but now that I have the Onza 3 I may not.

Gabriel454
02-23-2012, 12:18 AM
I must have the newer version of what you guys have....my Lynx Magnum has cams on it and I din't think they wre that brutal although it was my first compound so I had nothing to compare it to. Still have it and am thinking about restoring it but now that I have the Onza 3 I may not.

WELL if you decide not to restore it, I would like a crack at maybe trading a computer or something for it. (Not that I have a computer right now, but I don't have lots of money.)

How big is it? Mine is 70lb, 27 to 30 inch draw, must be pretty easy to set up since I have never done it before and every day I shoot it I have a better bow to shoot. =0) Not saying that it is perfectly tuned up, but only one way to learn right?

I would like to see how the Onza, your newer model bow, and mine stack up against kenz's bow.

Gabriel454
02-23-2012, 08:44 AM
I hope that isn't rude or seem selfish because I would like to make a mutually beneficial trade for something you could potentially not want.

I'm almost ready to make my next bow not be a Martin. I know, I know, I shouldn't SAY things like that, but I might not have a choice because my income dictates what I can spend money on. =0) Unfortunately I can buy something else cheaper than the threshold.

I wish I could shoot the two bows and see which one is better. All I have are pictures. What if I could look at a detailed 3 dimensional model? I bet there is already one floating around for the Martin bow in the form of a CAD. I could convert one to blender and draw it slightly out of scale so that it could be loaded into a flash program and you can look at it from any angle.

Wouldn't that be cool!?! Then I could look at the actual shape of it and see if I even like that...