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View Full Version : Can anyone explain this onza 3 diagram



rdhj
08-02-2012, 08:59 PM
http://www.martinarchery.com/manuals/2011_Martin_Nitro_Cam_Rotation_Diagram.pdf

are they saying that you compare the cable on both ends where they cross the whole that you have your screw in for your draw length....i have mine on 28"(#1 hole) and both my cables are almost crossing the center of number 1 hole where my screws are, not #5

WildWilt15
08-02-2012, 09:10 PM
http://www.martinarchery.com/manuals/2011_Martin_Nitro_Cam_Rotation_Diagram.pdf

are they saying that you compare the cable on both ends where they cross the whole that you have your screw in for your draw length....i have mine on 28"(#1 hole) and both my cables are almost crossing the center of number 1 hole where my screws are, not #5

The diagram does not show up on my computer. But i know what your talking about, and the only true way to check the cam timing is at full draw both my cables crossed through the #5 hole but my cams were still way out of time.

skidge
08-02-2012, 09:17 PM
where the cable crosses the whole is just a reference. u have to check timing at full draw on a draw board. any proshop should be able to do it-very easy with correct equipment. i find that best timing is having the top cam slightly advanced.

Spiker
08-03-2012, 12:11 AM
http://www.martinarchery.com/manuals/2011_Martin_Nitro_Cam_Rotation_Diagram.pdf

are they saying that you compare the cable on both ends where they cross the whole that you have your screw in for your draw length....i have mine on 28"(#1 hole) and both my cables are almost crossing the center of number 1 hole where my screws are, not #5

Yes - with the bow at rest (brace), both cables should cross both screws (top and bottom) at the same point.
I does not matter if the module is set on #1 -#3 -#7 or #5 (like the example in the manual.)
The cables should cross at the screw - no matter what draw length the mods are set at.

Now - this is only a good starting point. If your ata, bh, max draw weight and draw length are all really close to the tech specs (or right on) then the bow is going to
shoot very well.
However - as mentioned by others, getting the cams timed together needs to be done at full draw.

If you twist and tweak the bow to get it dialed in to perfection for the way you shoot with the arrows and all the other stuff you prefer ...
You may find that, at rest, the top cable crosses the screw dead center - and the bottom cable crosses the bottom screw right at it's front edge.
No big deal.! ! !

Every person is different - every bow is a bit different.
Set it up at the factory specs to start out. Then add a twist here or subtract a turn there until it shoots the tightest it can for you.