View Full Version : New Dyna cam vs. Tru-arc, Enough Arrow?
01-24-2008, 10:20 AM
Well I finally got my new dyna cam installed on my tracer and all set up. I havent put it thru the chrono yet but Im guessing I gained around 10fps. The only problem is it draws much harder, not as smooth, but does have a firmer back stop which I like. I dropped the draw weight down a bit, about 65-66lbs so I can shoot 50 in a row if I choose without killing my shoulder and I think the speed is about the same as old tru arc cams at 70.
As for shooting it is incredibly more accurate than before. I cant say it is all in the different cam system, I also installed a new truglo extreme sight and a kisser button. With all of the new goodies on it my groups have already shrunk about 3" at 35yds. and I just sighted it in this morning! Cant wait to really tweak it.
I can only rave about Martins customer service on this whole deal, they shipped me the new parts with no questions asked and didnt charge me a dime!!!
My buddy that bought the Bengal last week loves it and shot his best round in our techno hunt league monday night, about 35 pts better than with his older PSE. Now I have to really work to outshoot him next monday, but Im very confident with my new setup- Look out Kyle!!!
I do have a question about my arrows- I have Easton Excel st in 340 and 400. I shoot 30.75" arrows with 100 gr heads. Am I OK to use the 400's with 66-70lbs draw weight? I shoot about 40 shots a day.
Also I currently have 4" vanes with a slight offset, stock setup. I want to go with 2" blazers and a possibly twist them, I have a drop away rest. But my 4" vanes already brush my riser in the sight window and barely clear my cables.
Any feedback is welcome.
01-25-2008, 08:19 PM
I ran your setup through Easton's shaft computer. You are borderline 300/340
NO 400. Way to weak. Shoot bareshaft, and whichever spine(300/340) groups closest to flatched shafts is the one to go with.
NO FLETCH CONTACT. NOT GOOD. With a 4", this shouldn't occur. Something is up. Is your rest centered? Cam lean? Even a blazer shouldn't have contact, but even with a 4"??????????????????????????
01-27-2008, 08:34 AM
Thanks for the feedback, I guess I will put the 400's aside til I drop my draw weight or give them to a friend.
As for the fletching clearance it could be the drop away rest is not centered. I visually checked it by lining up the string on the cam then looking down a knocked arrow and it appears fine. My arrows are shooting well. Wouldnt I have some erratic arrow flight if the rest was off to the right, making the clearance too small? I havent adjusted the rest since it was initially installed. The bow is shooting better than ever so Im leary about making big changes.
I would really like to try the 2" blazers so any info on gaining clearance would help.
01-27-2008, 09:22 PM
If that is the case, then your rest is proly fine. Are you sure you are using 4" standard vanes? Proly also.
Are you sure you have contact? here is a great way to check. Reverse the arrow so the flethes are forward. Lay the arrow between the knots on your loop, and slide it back untill the widest part of the fletches passes the window. You can press down on the string to compensate for the arrow laying on the string instead of being centered as it is when it is nocked. Rotate the arrow, so that you can be sure that you have tested the arrow @ the fletch's widest point.
Also, there is the possibility of an eytreme difference in the tension of the two strands of your yoke. If one is significantly tighter, it could be causing limb twist. This would result in large fishtailing of the arrow, but @ that distance??????????????????????????????????????? Would have to be pretty extreme.
Test this by basic papertune. Your bow may not be in tune, but even so, this will tell you if you have fishtailing. Look for left/right tears. Do the tune @ ----->______ (point-blank!:D)
The only other thing I can think of is if your nock is twisted resulting in one fletch being lower resulting in it contacting your rest prongs resulting in a nudge in the direction of the riser.
01-30-2008, 07:30 AM
I got some more clearance for my fletches by adjusting my rest to the left. it was off a bit to the right of center. I am shooting stock easton excel st arrows with 4" vanes. The vanes are yellow and green and they were leaving a yellow streak on my mole skin lining by sight window, thats how I noticed the contact.
I have recently started using a darker target cover on my bag target and can actually see my arrow flight now. Fairly flat except on occasion the arrows will fly in a 3" rotation/ spiral. I think it is partially due to the vanes being a little wrinkled on a couple of my arrows, or maybe im out of tune.
I have a bit of cam lean going on. I noticed my serving on the top of the lower cam is rubbing and can visibly see the cam leaning to the left just a little, I hope this doesnt get worse, its a brand new set of cams, limbs and strings! I am still looking to get 2" blazers or quick spins installed, any benefits of one over the other for a hunting arrow?
I shot at a new indoor range , 3D, last night and had a heck of a time getting my carbon arrows back out. What is the best way to make them slicker and easier to remove?
01-30-2008, 09:00 AM
You can check the tension on your harness system.
Also, make sure your cable guard is not rotated out of the way any more than it needs to be.
Scorpion Venom Arrow Lube is the best stuff I have used. Carefull though, My arrows were so slick they blew right through my Black Hole target.
for hunting only, The blazers might be a tad better, but it is hard to say. You shooting mechs or fixed?
You will like the blazers for 3-d. Better speed and trajectory.
01-30-2008, 01:34 PM
Thanks for the info.
Im not sure how to check the tension on my harness. Do I put a bit more twist in one side to help even the cam at the other end? I will turn my cable guard a little, not much clearance now.
On the arrow grease, where could I buy the brand you recommended? I was looking at Delta's website and they did tests and found that the lubes that had more silicone in them pulled out easier. I have liquid silicone spray called reel magic for my fishing line, I think this would be worth trying.
As for broad heads Im now gonna shoot muzzy mx3 fixed blades, I bought them after 07' season. I used some savora mech. last season and one didnt open with a pass thru shot on a doe at 23yds. it flew great but the deer went a couple hundred yards before going down. Now I dont trust em to open every time.
I see in your bow specs you shoot the quick spins, do you use the blazers at all?
02-01-2008, 06:17 PM
To check the harness, Look at the cam. if it has lean, note to which side, and twist the appropriate cable. This can also be a result of the cable guard though, so squeeze them to determine if they are of equal tension.
I ordered my lube through a pro-shop. It is hands down the slickest lube on the market. No smell either. Make sure your lube won't stink if you do use it.
I had blazers. I like the qs better. I have the 2" version. Same principal as the blazer with the higher profile, steeper leading edge, etc... Only difference is the qs give WAY more spin, and are more accurate. I would use them.
02-02-2008, 05:03 PM
I have been trying to get rid of my cam lean for the past hour or so. I shouldve asked them at my local pro shop while there today but he was way busy behind the counter.
I adjusted my cable guard rod as close as possible and that made no difference. I have a bow press and took all of the pressure off of the string and the cam still isnt straight!!! It appears that the limb has a bit of permanent twist to it or something.
The bow is shooting pretty good but the serving is already showing wear from contact on the top of the lower cam :( I shoot about 30-50 shots a day and will have to re-serve the string in a week or two at this rate.
I just got these limbs and cams/ strings a week and a half ago. I was really hoping to have some trouble free shooting longer than 10 days!!
I hope there is some way of adjusting this cus right now im not at all impressed.
02-03-2008, 12:24 PM
I just posted on the other thread about this. I didn't know about the pressure being off, and still having twist. I would say talk with the proshop.
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