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Lukeiio
12-27-2012, 12:20 PM
Hello from Austria!! (-> warning: non-native-english-speaker)

I finally got my new bengal pro and im loving it!!!

This is my first martin (i shot a hoyt rampage xt before) and i have two questions:

1. What exactly is over-rotation and when does it occur?? Do you over-rotate the cam if you dont coordinate the draw lenght with the draw stop?? (For example using 26'' and moving the drawstop-peg all the way to +)

Is this cam set correctly??

74617462

2. Why is my bow so loud? Im using string-silencers but the bow makes some strange (metallic?) sound when i shoot it.. I heard that this could be caused by over-rotation?!

droppixel
12-27-2012, 01:34 PM
1. Your cam is advanced because of the -10# peg.
2. Check all of your hardware to make sure it is all tight/snug (mod screws).

Lukeiio
12-28-2012, 03:39 AM
thank you for your answer!!

i will set my bow to 70 pounds asap! what is an advanced cam?
when set at stnd-peg i will have to move the module to position 1 if i want to maintain the current draw length (~27''), is that correct? im a noob!
i believe everything is tight but theres still a bit of noise.. but actually i dont really care about that very much, i just want to make sure that theres is no (noisy) malfunction that could cause damage to my beloved bow!! :)

droppixel
12-28-2012, 10:23 AM
thank you for your answer!!

i will set my bow to 70 pounds asap! what is an advanced cam?
when set at stnd-peg i will have to move the module to position 1 if i want to maintain the current draw length (~27''), is that correct? im a noob!
i believe everything is tight but theres still a bit of noise.. but actually i dont really care about that very much, i just want to make sure that theres is no (noisy) malfunction that could cause damage to my beloved bow!! :)

Advanced/Retarded cam position is the starting point of the rotation. The way yours is in the photo is advanced. Retarded would be the opposite.

I'm not 100% sure if changing the cable will change the module setting. Spec sheet says 27" will be #1 - if you are on the -10# it would be #2.

Source of the noise will want to be found. Other thing to look at is if the limbs are fully seated into the rotocup. You can break the bow down and check that out and add a little grease to it if needed.

themiddleman
12-28-2012, 11:34 AM
Hi lukeiio
I see a couple of issues with your Bengal that you are going to want to fix before it shot again. the modules screws are supposed to be on both ends of the module not side-by-side as pictured. I'm sure the noise you're hearing is the module vibrating. There is a very good chance the cable could slip between the cam and mod the way it is. It will be an easy fix but you'll need a bow press to fix it. Why don't you go ahead and give me a call be more glad to help.

Prairie archery.
208-507-1102

Lukeiio
12-28-2012, 12:24 PM
@ droppixel/themiddleman: thanks for your help!!!

@ themiddleman: i believe calling you is not a good idea because i live in vienna/ austria. -> phone-bill! besides i think my spoken english is quite a mess.. :)

I listed the issues that i should discuss with the local dealer here in vienna:

1. Set the cable to stnd-peg (+ change module to #1 position) -> press

2. Change position of the module screws as far to the end of the module as possible (i think some module-screw positions are blocked at certain drawlength settings) -> press

3. ?? Please let me know if you can think of anything else!!

gravedigger
12-29-2012, 11:40 AM
@ droppixel/themiddleman: thanks for your help!!!

@ themiddleman: i believe calling you is not a good idea because i live in vienna/ austria. -> phone-bill! besides i think my spoken english is quite a mess.. :)

I listed the issues that i should discuss with the local dealer here in vienna:

1. Set the cable to stnd-peg (+ change module to #1 position) -> press

2. Change position of the module screws as far to the end of the module as possible (i think some module-screw positions are blocked at certain drawlength settings) -> press

3. ?? Please let me know if you can think of anything else!!
welcome to MTF

anything i could think of has been said but i did want to let you know that most martin bows do not need to be pressed.you can back out the limb bolts to relax the string and take it down your self.i make a mark on the limb bolt,washer and limb to keep my turns even.2 turns up top and 2 on the bottom till you can get the string/cable off.

one more thing.take lots of pics if you decide to take down the bow your self so you know how it all goes back together

Lukeiio
12-30-2012, 06:31 AM
@gravedigger:
thank you very much for the tip!!!

is it necessary to make marks and take pics if i do not take the limb-bolts out the whole way ?? i mean im not supposed to seperate the limbs from the riser, maybe 6-8 (or something) full turns could be enough to relax the string/ cables and after the work is done i just start to alternately screw the bolts back in?!


one more thing.take lots of pics if you decide to take down the bow your self so you know how it all goes back together
what does 'take down the bow' mean exactly? i thought i would just be backing out the bolts, please let me know if theres is any severe chance that the bow falls apart on me if i do this on my own!!! :(

elkslayer4x5
12-30-2012, 07:46 AM
welcome to MTF

anything i could think of has been said but i did want to let you know that most martin bows do not need to be pressed.you can back out the limb bolts to relax the string and take it down your self.i make a mark on the limb bolt,washer and limb to keep my turns even.2 turns up top and 2 on the bottom till you can get the string/cable off.

one more thing.take lots of pics if you decide to take down the bow your self so you know how it all goes back together

Also, keep an eye on the Barrel nut ( the round nut imbedded in the riser that the limb bolt goes into ) and don't take the end of the bolt up out of the barrel nut, back them out until you can just see light through the barrel nut, at that point, the rigging will be slack enough to remove cables and string. And as GD said take plenty of pics so that you will know where everything goes. Good Luck. And Welcome to the forum! :)

bfisher
12-30-2012, 12:56 PM
On most of the Martin/Rytera bows that I've worked on it was possible to turn the limb bolts out about 10 turns before I saw daylight through the barrel nuts. At that point you can get about 2 more turns. for total of 12. Just watch the end of the bolt through the barrel nut. When working on the module, if one of the screws is hidden behind the limb you can just squeeze the cable to that cam toward the riser and this should rotate the cam enough to get at that screw. Keep us posted.

Lukeiio
12-30-2012, 01:31 PM
adrenaline!! :)

i turned the limb bolts out just until i could see through the barrel nut and i was able to put the tension from the y-cable. i re-set the screws on the module and set the cable to the stnd-peg. it wasnt easy but you really dont need a press!!! (i believe its much more comfortable with a press though)

here are the pics, i hope the cam is set correctly now!!

74717472

Money Man
12-30-2012, 10:16 PM
Any luck with the noise?

Lukeiio
12-31-2012, 04:03 AM
Any luck with the noise?

yes, noise is much better, i shot my rampage again and then the bengal and theyre pretty much the same now when it comes to noise!! (of course the rampage repeatedly tries to take my arm off when i only think about creeping)

btw i have some trouble pulling that thing with the stnd-peg and the limb bolts in all the way, must be over 70#... but im confident that ill be able to pull it smoothely soon! i guess the wild boar will like that!! :D

at this point i want to thank all the posters who helped me out a lot with there tips, i really appreciate it!!

bfisher
12-31-2012, 07:54 AM
yes, noise is much better, i shot my rampage again and then the bengal and theyre pretty much the same now when it comes to noise!! (of course the rampage repeatedly tries to take my arm off when i only think about creeping)

btw i have some trouble pulling that thing with the stnd-peg and the limb bolts in all the way, must be over 70#... but im confident that ill be able to pull it smoothely soon! i guess the wild boar will like that!! :D

at this point i want to thank all the posters who helped me out a lot with there tips, i really appreciate it!!

A little hint here. Try shortening the draw length on the Rampage about 1/4". It might take a little string twisting, but you'd be surprised what 1/4" will accomplish. If the bow has a module that can shortened in 1/2" increments try 1/2" shorter and see how that works.

Barry

Mike G
12-31-2012, 09:28 AM
With the cam set on "STND" now and 70 pound limbs you will be drawing 70 pounds or a bit more. It is fine to set it to the -10 peg to reduce the draw weight and set the modules back where you had them for your draw length. The cam will be advanced, but that should not cause the bow to be noisy. Backing out both limb bolts the same amount of turns will also reduce draw weight; but again the draw length will change as the cam advances.

I do not think droppixel meant that having the cam set on -10 peg was wrong or bad and causing the noise; just that it is why the cam was advanced.

It is better; in my opinion; to set the cam on the -10 peg to reduce the draw weight to 60 pounds, if that is where you are more comfortable drawing the bow back. Drawing back more weight than you are comfortable with can lead to alot of bad habits, form, and reduced accuracy.

Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Mike

droppixel
12-31-2012, 11:30 AM
With the cam set on "STND" now and 70 pound limbs you will be drawing 70 pounds or a bit more. It is fine to set it to the -10 peg to reduce the draw weight and set the modules back where you had them for your draw length. The cam will be advanced, but that should not cause the bow to be noisy. Backing out both limb bolts the same amount of turns will also reduce draw weight; but again the draw length will change as the cam advances.

I do not think droppixel meant that having the cam set on -10 peg was wrong or bad and causing the noise; just that it is why the cam was advanced.

It is better; in my opinion; to set the cam on the -10 peg to reduce the draw weight to 60 pounds, if that is where you are more comfortable drawing the bow back. Drawing back more weight than you are comfortable with can lead to alot of bad habits, form, and reduced accuracy.

Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Mike

Correct.


yes, noise is much better, i shot my rampage again and then the bengal and theyre pretty much the same now when it comes to noise!! (of course the rampage repeatedly tries to take my arm off when i only think about creeping)

btw i have some trouble pulling that thing with the stnd-peg and the limb bolts in all the way, must be over 70#... but im confident that ill be able to pull it smoothely soon! i guess the wild boar will like that!! :D

at this point i want to thank all the posters who helped me out a lot with there tips, i really appreciate it!!

Depending on limb deflection it is very possible it could be maxing up to 74# - if it isn't comfortable or you are having a hard time getting a clean smooth draw - take a few turns out of the limbs. 1 turn generally/roughly = 3# or so give or take.

If you want to go with the -10# nothing wrong with that until you build up strength in the muscles and want to move to a higher draw weight, which in my opinion isn't really necessary. The muscles we use to draw our bows aren't ones that are commonly used, so it takes some building up.

Personally the one I have is 60# limbs and maxes roughly 64# when all in proper spec - I'll probably never go back to a full 70# limb should I buy a new bow in the future. I can pull 70# without any problems, but the mid-low 60# is just butter, especially when it's cold out.

bfisher
12-31-2012, 12:05 PM
Personally the one I have is 60# limbs and maxes roughly 64# when all in proper spec - I'll probably never go back to a full 70# limb should I buy a new bow in the future. I can pull 70# without any problems, but the mid-low 60# is just butter, especially when it's cold out.

Wise man. It's supposed to be easy. It's not a competition and a little less draw weight usually leads to much better accuracy, which is what it's all about.

bob cooly
01-02-2013, 01:31 PM
Those knowing the Fury Cam, if you choose to move from the standard peg down, do you need to (tune the strings) or just move on the pegs? See how his bow was advanced on the -10 peg, is that normal or do you need to tune the strings to the cam? New Bengal here and curious so I can drop it down for the grandson to shoot. Mine was loud too, moved the string stop off the string slightly and I really don't care for the stock string silencers, will replace them with some whiskers soon. Also just ordered a Nap Apache to put on it.