View Full Version : Bow tuning tip
02-13-2013, 11:28 AM
Best tip I know of; Don't drive yourself nuts!
Yeah! There are so many different tuning procedures and everybody and their brother having a article or their way doing it.
Basic tuning - probably the best for alround for getting the bow shooting reasonably darn good. Most would be good right here and forget the rest.
Walk Back tuning; Fairly nice, short distance and gets the job done darned well. I use it for most all my customer and myself. 10 ft and 30 yards is what I use. ??? I think it was my 2010 Shadowcat I did this with and I won a novelty shoot, 2" clay disc at 53 yards. Drilled that sucker twice.
Modified French Tuning; Probably works, but I got started with the full French tuning procedure and never checked out the Modififed version.
French Tuning Procedure; Notably the finest tuning procedure for setting center shot. 9 feet to out where you can still hit with the same pin. I can usually keep on a target butt out to 55 and 60 yards. The longer the distance the more perfect center shot is. Shot Outdoor and Field for 3 years and placed and won my fair share of times. Have link if anyone is interested.
Yoke tuning; I tune a yoke for cam lean, not fine tuning something I don't need fine tuned. See next.
Kitchen Sink tuning; Glanced over this the other night. Lord have mercy. To me this is yoke tuning, but for other reasons. Why would you tinker with the yoke when you tinkered with it to eliminate cam lean? Ain't saying it doesn't work, just why drive yourself nuts?
Bare shaft tuning; I'd rather take my wife shopping. This works, but having spoke with technicians that do this for a living, I'd not need it. First, bare shaft tuning is better done with the arrow weighted in the area of where the vanes will be with the same weight of the vanes (Scotch or electrical tape). Techs told me they have shot accurately out to 60 yards (2" groups).
Paper tuning; Works, but figure it one step towards fine tuning your bow. I will not paper tune for someone. I will help them with adjustments, but that's it. Okay, my natural shooting is not the same as others. I paper tune and get great results and the owner takes the bow home, shoots through paper and rips it to shreds. So; "That bow mechanic down there doesn't know what he's doing!"
Super tuning; Normally this is someone getting best performance from a bow. People send bows out for this. Duh? See Paper tuning. Yep, I can crank a few more rpms out of a bow, but how much do you want to pay for it? And if something goes wrong, dropped, new rest, different arrow, different draw lenght, you want to pay for another Super Tune?
02-14-2013, 01:28 PM
Nicely put Sonny, I couldn't agree more. I also can't think of anything else to add, so I'll just say thank you and leave it at that! lol :)
02-14-2013, 02:55 PM
Great read! Thanks.
02-19-2013, 02:49 AM
Best tip I know of; Don't drive yourself nuts!
easier said than done.. ;)
05-31-2013, 06:46 PM
Now, going hand in hand with my Bow tuning tip you have to build your arrows correctly.
Yeah, I got bored at the shop today... First pic is from 20 yards. Second pic is from 30 yards - should be four holes.
If you missed something you oughts to look again ;)
05-31-2013, 08:24 PM
Tell me about the fletching, looks backwards to me.
05-31-2013, 10:00 PM
Yep, backwards and full helical for the 1 3/4" Bohning X vane Shield cuts. I used the two methods for FOC, cut shaft length and full length. Respectively, 8.29% and 7.19%.
I shot I don't know how many times after the first pics and the arrow kept repeating.
06-01-2013, 09:32 PM
Sonny, I've thought of that with some Blazers. Actually I double fletched some Blazers I was thinking might shoot a Magnus Bullhead and the arrow shot great, just never put a Bullhead on it' looks too much like a runaway Helicopter Blade to me.
06-09-2013, 11:28 AM
And don't tread on someone's favorite tuning procedure or "Hero" tuner. Yeah, someone posted of this one tuning procedure resulting in Robin Hoods and super tight groups. The particular tuning procedure is one I don't advocate one bit, but it probably works. Only it works differently than people think. You have to understand how it effects the bow/center shot.
Anyway, my reply was only to say what works for you, works for you. I noted none of my bows have been tuned with his favorite procedure. I then gave a example - see pic. That particular bow that shot those groups is one I noted in another post or reply - totally a wreck considering the wheel and cam lean. The individual wasn't quite happy, but more understanding after a bit.....
I think I've posted enough pics of groups my bows have shot in here and giving proof what works for me, works for me.
Of the pic. 1st shows close and a bent over vane. 2nd, the dot is 1" in diameter. I think there is five there. 2" group would you say? 3rd, 2 touching and one nearest the broken arrow I was aiming at, maybe a finger width separating the group. What, another 2" group? Guess how the broken arrow got broke.
12-23-2013, 10:20 PM
As usual I can't let go of things sometimes ;) I got to reading the yoke tuning thing and Kitchen sink thing. I can't read through either. I go brain dead... I have the original write up and the expanded version and can't get through either.
Too much is there that is not the what it's suppose to be. I would example John Dudley's write up on French tuning. Read it. There is nothing there but the brunt of the subject. No bare shaft stuff. No draw length stuff. Just the subject, French Tuning.
I looked the getting the cam or wheel straight a full draw... Lord! I really don't have the equipment for doing the work and works is what it is. I mean, the bow has to be drawn and held. One arrow on each side of the cam or wheel are to split the bow string. Okay, say you straightened the cam or wheel to the bow string with bow at rest. Now, you perform this test, cam or wheel at full draw. Again, I don't have the draw board (or the patience) to check this, but bows having guide rods at full draw the cam or wheel should lean. So by this yoke/kitchen sink thing you twist the yoke to straighten the cam or wheel at full draw. Now, engaging brain (if it's working), wouldn't you have opposite cam or wheel lean with bow at rest? And isn't this swapping cam or wheel lean from at rest to full draw? Is this yoke/kitchen sink thing saying that it's better to have a straight cam or wheel at full draw than it is with bow at rest? Try something else; The cam/wheel is straight at full draw and going to leaning with the arrow leaving the bow. Am I thinking right?
Of the yoke tuning. You're actually bending the upper limb to correct center shot. Correct? Okay, it just won't sink in my head.....
Walk Back and Modified French tuning. From the reading of, somebody is pulling someone's leg. Yes, both can possibly work. BUT! Read both procedures. Hey! I'm so dang lazy I have the wife kick the dog to shut it up. Both have you shooting close and backing up. Walk Back doesn't tell you which way to the move the rest. It says pick a direction. WTH!
My modified version of Frenching tuning is nothing more than a shorter distance version. I do this at the archery shop indoors, 9 feet or so (I guess) and then from 30 yards and 33 yards if I desire to do so. I don't use a dot to zero in on at the guessed 9 feet. I use a vertical line set with a level. I use my 30 yard pin setting for both distances. So sight moved to nail the vertical line, which I normally make 1/2" wide, I back up to 30 and shoot dead on. If the arrow is left I move the rest to the right. If the arrow is right I move the rest to the left. Tiny, tiny movements are used and I use a sharp lead pencil to make a mark to go by. The width of the lead pencil line gives a reasonable amount to move.
I can get finicky or just do a "rush job." Up close I might use a line just thick enough to see and wanting my arrow to cut the line each shot. Doesn't always happen, but close enough is close enough. Back at 30 yards I'll a line thick enough I can see it and I can see a 1/2" wide black or blue line (depends on what wide felt tip pen I happen to pick up). Guys, it works for me. My short version and the full version of French tuning takes time. Each rest correction for the longer distance means starting all over. This is done until there is no need to move the rest at the longer distance.
My Shadowcats were tuned this way and dead on 50 yard shots were a reality...
And then my "rush job." Get it close, throw out fliers and get the job done. Yeah, arrows may not be perfect on the line, but then it's works. If I can post the picture; This was outside where I could use the long version of French tuning. I rushed the short distance and shot the longer 55 yard distance. I had to adjust the arrow rest 4 times (once moving the rest too much) and I was close to begin with. So this should tell you how tiny, tiny movements are needed.
Something just under a 3" group, 55 yards, one arrow on the line and two on either side. I'll take it all day long......
12-24-2013, 07:38 AM
Sonny, I have done the paper tuning thing in my basement and then have gone outside and done the walk back method on the same bow. In fact my Martin Cougar FC that I shoot now. After the paper tuning I still did some fine movements of the rest.
With my buddy's bow this past year I just went over installed his rest and eyed it up and had him do the walk back, made a couple of adjustments and in no time at all to me he was shooting very tight groups to 30 yards. About a month later he changed to a different rest and did it himself and said it was the quickest and easiest way he has ever seen or done in the past.
Yup ... simple as one can get in my opinion.
12-24-2013, 10:39 AM
Not saying Walk Back doens't work and I've even suggested it to others. The original version has not been changed since 2007.
Copied from 2007;
" Hang a weighted string from a nail on a target. [I would hope the string is good thickness because a kite string can be difficult to see 40 yards down range].
Stick a round sticker on the target face so that the string splits the sticker. Use your existing 20-yd pin, step back 20-yards from the target and fire at the sticker. [First distance]
Don't worry about where the arrow hits.Walk straight back to 30 yds, and using the same 20-yd pin setting,
fire an arrow at the sticker. [2nd distance]
Repeat at 35 yds and at 40 yds, using the 20-yd pin and firing at the sticker. [3rd and 4th distance]
If your arrows look like this pattern " / " or “\”,
then pick a direction and move your arrow rest 1/16th inch. [Choose a direction?]
If the pattern gets straighter (more vertical), then that is great. Keep adjusting in that direction.
If the pattern gets more crooked, then adjust in the other direction.
Keep firing arrows and keep adjusting the arrow rest position until you get a vertical pattern of arrows.
Eventually, your arrows will hit in the target is a straight up and down line like this " | ".
LOCK down the arrow rest setting. Your centershot is perfect.
The author of Walk Back tuning has in his tuning guide this; There is a little known secret called MODIFIED FRENCH TUNING (illustrated above) which does what walk back tuning does, but it is much MUCH easier to do.
For the life of me I can't say easier, but far shorter and with less distances to use. Always there is "dragging out" of procedures. I R not some sand box kid, nor do I believe sand box kids are using either procedure. There is this archery coach who routinely has articles in a well known magazine. The man is indeed quite archery intelligent, but then writes in a manner dictating that of us being children. One too many articles of such and I by-pass his articles like I would the Black Plague. I find it is a small wonder that both the above author and this article writer doesn't have a step by step procedure for nocking the arrow...
Again, too much within a procedure actually detracts from the value of the procedure. Me; "Zero in on the string at 9 feet." I don't need a step by step procedure to set my sights. Understand me, here?
I will go a bit farther. I am no all great tuning wiz, but my tuning that works for me, works for me. The above author and another went so far as to say my tuning procedures/setup procedures are far lacking. Whatever lacking really means. I shoot. I compete...not on the national circuit, but club and state sanctioned events I do and quite often.
Again, I am not great archery shot, but don't bring your "B" game and expect to walk all over me. Aged that I am, I still compete in Adult, not senior in club events. I shoot only Super Senior in ASA events...
So like many I must submit a resume each year. Since year 2000 I have placed 3rd or better well over 120 times. I can only count 3 or 4 times that I haven't finished in the top ten. So I submitted such information and a picture to the two who wished to disclaim my procedures. They have not responded, nor have they of late detracted from my comments or replies.....
And by all means, what works for you, works for you. Use it.....
12-24-2013, 01:28 PM
I don't know what method mine is called. I use the same method as you do. After I set the rest and check it in my basement or wherever at about 10 feet, I usually start at about 10yrds, then 15yrds, then 20, and finally 30. I just call it "walk back" because that's what I do. I always thought that's what it was. I'm not sure if the exact yardages are important and I know that the farther the distances the more exact it will be. I always get mine very close and then after I have shot a lot with a new bow I do it again. Right before the Archery Deer Season I check it again. I'll also check it from an elevated position moving the Target, so I guess then it would be called: "Target Move Back". I'm kind of anal at making sure my bow and arrows are tuned and flying right, especially before the season. I want everything to be right and take away that guess work if/when I miss a shot. That way I know it was me, and that's ok. Although, you know there is always that little twig I didn't see....lol
12-24-2013, 03:33 PM
Mike, yes, you are very close. I'm trying to retrieve a passage from one of the world's greatest archery shots. I'm thinking Levi Morgan on Facebook. Something of saying you don't have to be overly precise. Given was; Use same pin. Zero in at 20 yards. Then shoot out to 50 yards. If groups are left, move rest right and vice versa. This is done until you are dead on at 20 and dead on at 50. Bow is set for center shot... I would guess this to be something of my "rush job" of French tuning.
Levi has been letting things out that really...disrupt (a good word) a few of the highly proclaimed bow tuners and those giving coaching tips/lesson..... Other top shooters are letting things out that have never been let out before.
Bow tuning/sighting in. I don't know if I have noted this here. This last Saturday I agreed to help a person that just bought a Rytera Alien Z. I checked his bow over and basically just set the draw stop and had him watch, even had him set the draw stop as I held position. Set, he gave it a draw. He was quite impressed that the Alien Z had such a hard wall. No creeping, no having to hold on for dear life. I also gave him a shake down on taking his bow down without the use of a bow press.
I then installed a Sure Loc 4 pin fixed sight. He gave that it'd take some time to sight in, but would get it done. So I gave him a shake down on setting the 20 yard pin and this usually getting on paper at 20 yards and sometimes so close that only minor corrections are needed. ???? Maybe I have told of this before. Seems someone saw what I had and measured his 20 yard sight pin and how it looked to the arrow aligned to the bow string. He replied of such and what I had was near exact on.
Center shot pretty much set (and I had this and had him see what I was looking for and did)
Align the arrow with the string and move sight so the pins are just left of the bow string.
Measure up from the top of the arrow shaft 3 3/8" and set the pin height. (move gang (housing), not the pin). 3 3/8" is a a basic average I have found.
All that remains is shooting to see where your arrows impact. He didn't have any arrows, but I've set sights in this manner and had many customers all but dead on and only made small movements to be dead on and a few have been so dead on that they didn't even have to move their 20 yard pin.
I guess I impressed him. I didn't charge him a dime, but he wouldn't let it go and ended up buying me lunch. The shop is closed. I do what I do because I like to. Later that day, playing around, I set center shot for this customer, using the method I use, up close, 9 feet or so and back to 30 yards. He was happy. That he interrupted my playing I really socked it to him. Yep, cost him a whole whopping diet Pepsi....
Of two other instances of years past;
One, I set up a bow for this customer. Got it where I wanted it and went to the indoor practice range. Witness all over the place that day. I asked for a moment and those practicing gave me the go ahead. First shot, dead in the X. Second shot, slapped my first arrow.
Second instance; Setting up my target bow. Installed new strings, sights, peep and all. Two Martin staff shooters present and a couple of others practicing. First shot, left and low of the bull's eye. Second shot, just low and left of the bull's eye. 3rd shot, in the bull's eye. Liking how things were I continued and recorded a 298 with a goodly amount of Xs.
It was then that one of the Martin staff shooters watching went to bat for me and I was then shooting my first Martin Shadowcat, a 2010. Later, not on staff mind you, but I had my own 2010 Shadowcat at Silver Level status, I believe this the entry level for staff shooters. I think, Silver, Gold, and Platinum are the levels. Barry should know for sure....
12-25-2013, 01:33 PM
Well, can't submit a new post so I'll expand this Thread - See pics in above Reply for here. That's the way I gotta do it....
Target stabs; I had played with front and back stabs some time back, more like years. But then I came across a sweet heart buy/swap and picked a new Bernie's V-bar 3" Ultra-Lite and two Mini Silencers. I gave $200.00 for a ton of stuff and that I sold off returned twice over what I paid and the V-bar and goodies left over. He called it, not me and I asked if he was sure. He needed the money. Later, I ran into another sweet heart buy, a Doinker V-bar with quick disconnects, 10" back bar and 6 oz of weights to go with it. He put the price on it and I bought it, no trying to talk him down. I knew I got a pretty good deal. So I looked the buy up. I didn't get hurt one bit. But let me tell you something. Archery trinkets are a rip off. The weights can be bought individually or as sets and set of 3 is $23.00. 6 weights, $46.00!!! They're nothing but 1/4" tapped 1" stainless steel washers.
I've used my old 30" carbon Cartel for years and haven't found anything that beats it by any measure that says I need something else. I had one of those fancy Doinkers, a Fatty Supreme with weights ($138.00 - in with the buy/swap above) and one try and it was on it's way to Hawaii. Just changing the front weights made it acceptable on every target bow I've owned and had no doubt it would work on my present target bow.
For the MarXman I began with the 30" Cartel and removed weight until I was down to the 1 oz end cap and a Maxjax of 3/4 oz and I didn't use a back bar at the time. And I did okay.
Later, I added a Bernie's "V" bar and all the weight on the left side. This felt gooder and I did pretty good all last year. I can't say that Mini Silencer reduced any shock as the MarXman is pretty shock free.
Just recently I went with the Doinker set up. The Cartel up front and the Doinker on the back and left side with 6 oz proved sort of okay...to some degree, but it needed something. So did some reading and read, a Doinker write up and other information said; "Let's try this." "This" amounted to my 30" Cartel and 4 oz on the 10" back bar, which was set down and out to give me clearance. There was, I think, improvement. Read some more. I then went with 3 3/4 oz out on the end of my Cartel and 6 on the back bar. This is proving very nice. Bow is just a hair over 7 pounds and weight gives a good feel. There are tests other than accuracy. At full draw, not trying to shoot, and all feels nice. Still, I ran out of weights for both front and back. Said, is when "there" you will have a oval little hole. Well, my oval hole isn't small, but staying in the X ring and catching the edges of it. So some more weight, but add and subtract as necessary for more weight. And then you have to get use to the extra weight. I've went up a pound and after 40 shots with the last arrangement I was sweating. Yeah, about 30 degrees, a hint of a breeze and a light jacket and ball hat for warmth.
Okay, you just don't throw weight on a bow and expect magic. Weight has to distributed to balance the bow in-hand and at the shot. I have the Doinker write up, formula and I believe a link to one stablization read that goes way into depth. I can post or PM them should someone want.
01-04-2014, 07:36 PM
New entry to the tuning list. Maybe not new. I'll post a couple of pics at the end. Everybody is "Friends" with Tim Gillingham and I'm on his list ;) Just recently he releases his Torque Tuning procedure and with a overdraw. Say overdraw today and it's blasphemy. My second and third new store bought bows were the Hoyt MagnaTec and UltraTec and both with factory overdraw risers. I never gave a second thought about either being of overdraw design. I wanted, I bought.
And I commenced to do a going "beating up" of the 3D competition. There for about 3 years there 3 of us holding on to 3rd place and better. How can you shoot that thing? was a regular comment. And me returning; "What are you talking about?"
With seeing the picture of my UltraTec you will get why I was asked such. The vane of my arrow set right between the prong of my QuikTune 3000. As such, from tip of the prongs to the deepest part of the grip measures 2 1/2". That same deepest part of my Pearson MarXman to launch arm of my Limb Drive is 1 3/8". Tim says his measurement is 2".
Tim gives of torque tuning whereas you torque the bow one way and center the pin and shoot and then troque the bow the other way and center the pin and shoot. Mercy! What corrections come are reducing the error of, I guess, normal human torque error. I have the complete write up if some one would want. It is rather long, but I've seen longer...
01-09-2014, 02:54 PM
Couldn't stand it any longer! Heck with the snow, heck with the cold. Slapped the bow together, jacket and hat and hit the door. Presley' Annual Indoor 3D is just a few day off and I'm trying to decide to go...trying being the key word. Shot it last year and didn't care for how they didn't follow the rules and the same rules again this year...
Anywho... I stuck in a smaller orifice.....which I think I messed a ways back. I get all ready and it starts snowing, light, but there. A slight breeze, but not enough to make the eye water. Brushed the snow off the target that was there. I had plowed a path through the snow yesterday.
20, 25 and 30 yards had my arrow driving right in and finished with 35 yards. Little distractions were there, snow making the evergreen's limb hand a bit low and don't know when, but the wife stuck up another bird house. Must 15 bird houses in the yard now. Took a couple of tries to get all 3 go in back to back, but drove them, but a bit low. That slapping sound from 35 yards is just as bad as from 20 yards.
01-25-2014, 09:29 AM
Draw boards. Nice, but you don't need them and we've done without them for years. First one I ever saw was Byran Furgeson's. Byran being one of the most notable Traditional Trick Shot in the world. Wasn't fancy like the ones today, looked like heavy plywood with a inch scale markings. Just set bow so the grip caught a thick peg, attach hook to string and pull on a rope that ran through a pulley. He had little draw scale incorportate so get poundage at draw length.
So, I have my bow set up and done through a "J" hook screwed in the ceiling. The draw length is correct, the timing is perfect and the draw stops set perfect. But is it? Okay, a challenge flung and I don't back down. I take my bow to the archery shop that just opened. I know the owner, he's a ASA Senior Pro and sponsored by PSE. He has a homemade draw board/shooting machine. Here goes;
Me; "Tim, tell me where it's off." So Tim puts my bow in his machine with arrow nocked. He first draws it to the draw stops. The draw stops are fitted with O-rings.
Tim; "Man, they're perfect, both touching at the same time."
So Tim draws a bit more and both timing "tabs" touch.
Tim; "Sonny, I can't time a bow any better than you have yours."
So he fires my bow and the arrow is dead straight in the target butt. Arrow pulled and shot again gets the same results, perfectly straight in the target butt.
Tim; "Shoot that sucker!"
Me is ;)
Now, I didn't put my sight frame on my bow. Better than $300.00, nope, not in some machine, though Tim's machine holds the bow very well.
Bottom line; You can set up a bow very well with the use of a "J" hook, you have to be careful as letting up has derailed many bows. I've done it once and learned dang quick. You can also set up a bow without a draw board or "J" hook and I've done it plenty of times.
02-26-2014, 12:07 PM
hey sonny after reading this post I did the walk back tune wich ive never done before ive always just paper tuned and called it good but after readin that paper tunin is just a step to fully tunin your bow I decided to try this walk back tune. It took a couple of adjustments but my arrows r flying straighter than ive ever seen before and grouping tighter at longer distances . Its great what u can learn from more experienced archers thanks for this thread I will be retuning all my bows with more than just paper tunin from now on paper gets ya close but walk back gets ya dead nuts.
02-28-2014, 09:58 PM
I have many that comment of the tuning procedures out there. Okay, Walk Back works. Modified French Tuning works. Short range French Tuning works. Full French tuning works. Other tuning procedures work. That we are all different of mind or limited to that available we use what works....
Tuning procedure have come down from the past, some mutating to cover the compound bow. More years than what I want to remember, wanted was a slightly high and right or left tear (right or left handed) through paper. This was said to give consistent correction to the arrow. Desired "bullet holes" came about, but bullet holes were found not the finishing of tuning, but one step of tuning. The race for the perfect tune procedure became rampant. The return of slightly high and right or left came recently and much debated, but supreme accuracy of target point arrows noted by many. And then one highly acclaimed tuner/coach noted "Those using field points can get away with murder." I am not one of those who highly acclaims this tuner/coach and for reasons.....
I make no claim of any tune procedure and well hope that no one gives me the honor. I don't want it, thank you. If noted I pointed one in some direction that he or she likes, okay.
How do I say this...... I first found French tuning through a article by John Dudley. French tuning was old then and John didn't know why it was called French. He used it and liked it and wrote of it, 2004 era - I used it then when I first competed in Field and Outdoor.
Real short; John starts with a reasonably tuned bow. John says to zero in on a dot at 9 feet. John notes this will give the average shooter a distance of 52 to 57 yards. And of course moving the rest for correction and starting all over again.
I have John's PDF, but the link is gone. I could post "snips" to show if some one wanted.
So a follow through link 3 thru 7. Read it, read it back to John's info. Is that noted in the link a modification in hiding? Is it really his to claim?
03-29-2014, 09:16 AM
Bow tuning tip; Record information for your bow...bow you presently shoot that is.
Just posted this in my ranting weather Post. Tore my bow down to the bare riser, checked everything, put it back together with new rest, new tied string nocks and new d-loop. How close was I to what it was for sights? Dead on! Unbelievable, but true. Yes me did get it that close... horizontal adjustment, center shot, I knew I was dead in the X before. I just moved the rest until I dead in the X again. Shot back to 40 yards and still in the bull's eye. Feeling good this morning...well, about how the bow came out, I picked on the X ring of the 40 yard Pronghorn insert and caught the X ring at 11:00. If the weather cooperates I'm hitting the 3D course...but probably tomorrow as it is misting and calling for rain and dang overcast right now at 9:16 am.
09-03-2014, 08:19 PM
I noted of this a couple of replies ago. Here is Tim's write up.
Understanding Torque Tuning
By: Tim “the Hammer” Gillingham
Over the course of your archery experience you may have come in contact with many opinions on many subjects and you will probably have various reactions to them. Most people take things repeated over and over again as the gospel and it seems the more it gets repeated the more it gets entrenched into our psyche.
You may have heard “ Overdraws make the bow more critical!” I tend to disagree and let me explain myself.
First I must give credit to the person that first brought the topic up in the first place. Many know world renowned professional archer Jesse Broadwater. Arguably one of the best archers the world has ever seen and probably the very best in the world today. He showed up on the scene a few years ago shooting an overdraw and many wanted to know why. Now I personally had been shooting an overdraw for many years for other reasons like being able to cut my arrow shafts shorter to lighten them up and make them stiffer. I had never seen a loss in accuracy so I continued to shoot my setups very successfully with about a 2” overdraw. When Jesse started talking about what he was doing I decided it was time to run my own tests and really try and figure out if indeed an overdraw was more forgiving.
People were talking about “Torque Tuning” their bows and a friend of mine was convinced that the perfect spot on my particular bow for the rest was ¾” from the throat of the grip. After much testing an analysis, this is what I found and it was not what he had thought. The perfect spot for my rest was right where I had it with a 2” overdraw.
Problem:Two things happen when we torque the bow, we are moving the sight one way and the arrow the opposite. The reason we get an impact change due to torque is that we are making compensations with the sight when we torque the bow and therefore the arrow is going to hit off line.
Solution: If we can put the arrow rest in the right position we can find the “sweet spot” where the two actions(moving the sight one way and the arrow the opposite direction) cancel each other out. In laymans terms, this means I can set the rest and sight position to a point that no matter how I torque the bow left or right, as long as the sight is on target the arrow will hit in the middle where I am aiming.
How is this possible? How do I achieve this?Usually what has to happen in most setups is that the rest has to come back and the sight may have to be moved forward or back to fine tune it. The rest is the primary adjustment because it is close to the nocking point and therefore less of a movement at the rest will make more of a change downrange.
Here are the steps:
1. Sight your bow in at 20 yards to start with.
2. Draw the bow with a arrow, torque the riser to the left (arrow getting closer to the cable), put the pin in the middle and fire the shot.
3. Draw the bow with another arrow and torque the bow the opposite direction to the right( arrow getting further away from the cable), put the pin in the middle and fire a shot.
4. If the bow is perfectly torque tuned, all the arrows will hit in a tight group. If not, you will see a lateral spread in the arrows. Typically the arrow you torqued to the left( arrow getting closer to the cable)will impact to the right and the one torqued to the right(arrow getting further away from the cable) will impact to the left.
5. Make adjustments to the rest, usually you have to bring the rest back incorporating the Hamskea Overdaw in conjuction with your Hamskea Versa Rest. You will be amazed at the difference when you start playing with the rest position.
6. Once you get the arrow impacting very close at 20 yards no matter what left or right torque you put on the riser, move back to 50 yards or further and repeat the test. You may have to make fine adjustments.
7. You can also move the sight in or out if that is an available option to you and that will allow some fine tuning also. It has less of an effect than the rest due to its position further away from the nocking point.
Once you get this done you will be amazed at how much better your bow will shoot. One of the other factors that I ran into in this experiment was that the launcher on the arrow rest needed to provide side support. It is one of the major reasons that the Accu-Glide launcher is designed the way it is to provide side support and correction to the arrow on a torqued shot. I found that while testing a skinny carbon shaft on a wide launcher, that no matter what adjustments I made I could not get the torqued shots to come together. A simple bending up of the side of the launcher to provide side support solved the issue and that setup toque tuned exactly the same as other setups out of the same bow with a different arrow.
Where this will benefit you most as an archer or bowhunter is when you place your hand in the bow incorrectly or when you are shooting in the wind and making compensations to keep your sight on target as you are being blow around. In general I think it will make your bow shoot much more forgiving and make you a better archer.
09-03-2014, 11:07 PM
It makes sense in a physics way....
Its all about where your axis of rotation is in relation to the moment arm of the sight(line of) and rest.....
Kinda like torquing a long bow(or recurve) if you torque around the arrow, AND that's your sight reference, then it won't matter as long as you still compensate for gravity.....or are instinctive
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