View Full Version : Pantera cam stop placement
I just purchased a 2012 Pantera Magnum with 70# limbs, Fury XT cam. Very nice bow! The only adjustments I have made to the bow are setting the draw length module to #3, which I believe is 29.5", and taking 2 turns off the limb bolts to reduce the poundage to roughly 65 (factory tag noted it was set at 71#).
As I have adjusted the draw length, the cam stop needs to be adjusted as well, but I'm not exactly sure where? I have read other posts on this, but it kinda seems unclear. If I loosen the draw stop on the cam, and draw the bow back, how do I know I have reached full draw for the 29.5" module setting when there is nothing there to stop the draw? It is possible that I could overdraw / underdraw a bit right?
Is there some way I can tell I have reached full draw for a particular draw length setting by looking at the string / cables on the cam when the bow is drawn, or perhaps some other method? I don't want to set the stop where I am overdrawing or underdrawing the bow. I don't have a draw board, but do have a hanging hook I could draw the bow with by pulling down.
This is my ony gripe about the bow, I wish there were correlating marks on the cam to adjust the stop based on the draw length setting. From what I have read, some folks adjust the stop back and forth a little off the "full draw" spot, but a factory draw stop setting for each draw length setting would be helpful. Maybe I am clueless on this, if so, I would appreciate your advice:confused:
03-10-2013, 07:30 AM
I don't think there is any particular setting. I haven't had the opportunity to play with the FXT cam. Try setting the draw stop so it sits at the bottom edge of the limb( roughly 5 o'clock position) and go from there. Moving it towards the bow to - position will decrease let-off(less valley), moving it towards the + will increase the let-off/valley.
That will get you started. There are a few guys on here with the FXT. Hopefully they'll chime in soon.
03-10-2013, 01:19 PM
The only thing to be careful of, as far as I've been able to tell, is that you need to set your draw stop so that the cam doesn't over-rotate and let the cable press against the axle. If you don't watch it, the cable will be the unfortunate victim of a nasty wear point. ;)
wabbit, that's the issue: I don't know when the cam is starting to be overdrawn. There has to be some way of knowing by how the stings / cables are in relation to the cam / module. Certainly there has to be a way to tell or everyone is guessing? Do the settings on the Fury XT cam correlate to AMO draw length standards? If so then I guess I could construct a draw board and draw the bow back 27.75" from the pivot point on the grip which would correlate with a 29.5" draw length? I guess this would be semi accurate?
03-11-2013, 02:16 PM
The way that I set the draw stop on my Fury XT cams was to set the draw module first as you have done.
I then removed the draw stop completely from the bow.
I had a friend mark on the cam with a sharpy along the limb by the piece of foam while I was at full draw and anchored.
I then put the draw stop back on with the edge of it at that mark.
I then drew my bow back again and had my friend watch to make sure that the string layed along the flat spot of the module, not bending past it, which you will be able to feel anyways.
When you over draw you will notice that the let off no longer is dropping but rising. Without the draw stop you can feel the bottom of the valley. If you want less let off you set the draw stop so that your draw will stop before the bottom of the valley. This will gain you a few extra fps depending on how you set it. There is approximately 3 to 5 fps gained from 80% to 65% depending on the bow and setup.
Not sure if it's the right way but it worked for me.
03-11-2013, 04:02 PM
Mike nailed it; these cams are so adjustable, the only way to make sure you aren't over drawing is to either put it on a drawboard or have a friend watch... you'll be able to visually tell because once the cable contacts the axle, the string will start to bend around it and won't be a straight line anymore. If you really pay attention you can feel it, but my buddies bow was barely making contact and we didn't realize it until he started to see the serving wear...
Mike, when you say flat spot in the "module" are you refering to the green draw adjustment module or the inside part of the cam that looks like an "L" that the string rotates around? The green draw adjustment module on my cam is curved and has no flat spot as you refered to, so I am confused.
I made a draw board this afternoon and drew the bow back to 27.75" from the pivot point on the grip and set the stop, thinking this would be very close to the AMO draw length of 29.5" that he draw adjustment is set on. When I drew the bow, it seems there is very little valley between peak weight and the wall. I can take a picture of what the cam looks like at the 27.75" mark as noted above and post it if that would help someone tell me if the cam looks overdrawn / under drawn. Sorry for these stupid questions guys, I'm learning, this is my first single cam bow.
Thanks again for all your replies!
03-11-2013, 07:21 PM
PJV, there's the beauty of these cams, you don't like the valley, you can change it. If the valley is too narrow, you can move the module to a shorter position, and then move the draw stop to compensate for the change. This will lengthen the valley out and lower your hold weight.
The older cams were all module or cam specific for both draw length and let-off. With these there is a wide range of possible settings all without major change ups.
03-12-2013, 03:10 PM
You are correct. I made that a bit confusing.
The cable will travel around the inner cam and will lay along a flat spot at full draw.
I hope this doesn't confuse you more. The easiest way is to have someone draw the bow back slowly and watch as the string comes around the cam.
I am fortunate that my brother and my hunting buddy are about the same size as me and my friend is a lefty like me. Our draw lengths are all the same, or very close. My brother is actually one of those people that does some things right handed and some things left handed, but was right eye dominant. Hence forth, he is the odd ball in our group of lefties.
Sorry about the confusion.
03-12-2013, 05:22 PM
PJV, please take a picture if you can.
I wish I would have taken a picture of my buddies bow when we set his up, that would help tremendously on this forum and I will try to remember to do that next time we are out shooting.
This question actually comes up alot.
Mike, thanks for the clarification on the draw module / cam module. I kind of thought that's what you meant.
From what I am reading, I guess there is no "one best setting" for draw length or cam stop on this cam, and that I'll just have to play with it? I'd really like to get close to that 80% let off.
I will try to take pictures of the cam at the 27.75" setting as described above, tomorrow. The ya'll can see how the string sets on the module and advise. I certainly apprectiate all the help.
Ok guys, here are some pics of the Fury XT at full draw. By full draw, I mean the draw module is set to 3 which should correlate to a 29.5" draw length. Assuming Martin goes by standard AMO lengths, then the apex of the string should be 27.75" from the pivot point at "full draw" to get a 29.5" length (27.75 + 1.75 = 29.5). Those are the settings / lengths for these pics.
Does the cam look as if it is overdrawn, underdrawn, or about right? Note that I have my draw stop pegged and is against the wall at full draw. Please advise, and thank you!
03-13-2013, 06:30 PM
Looks about right, you can see that your cable is just kissing the axle, barely, and there doesn't seem to be any bend in the cable, which is good. At that mod setting you don't want to go any longer on the your draw length with the stop.
You had mentioned that you wanted to get the most out of the let-off, so what you can do is move the module to the 2.5 or even the 2 marker, and then move the draw stop to set and "fine tune" your length. This should lengthen your valley and increase the let-off percentage...
03-14-2013, 03:17 AM
It looks ok.
That long flat area of that inner cam is the area I was referring to. Notice how the cable is just starting to lift off it? If it feels good to you where it is, I would leave it, but you could move the draw stop a very little bit towards the -. That way it should move the cable off the axle and it will lay abit more on that flat.
03-14-2013, 02:49 PM
I looked at your pictures again and reread your post.
I was thinking about it today and you stated that the draw stop was pegged, but it looks like you have a bit more room towards the -, I think.
Mike, actually what I was referring to was the draw stop being pegged to the limb at full draw. I think you may have meant that it was pegged all the way in the slide on the cam. You are right, there is room in both directions to move the stop on the cam, but in the pic, the draw stop is fully up against the limb.
03-15-2013, 03:06 PM
OK, now we are on the same page. If it feels good to you how it is it'll be fine. The cable isn't bending around the axle at all. You are at the very bottom of the 80% let off.
Honestly, it does not feel like 80% let off how it is set now (same as in the photos) When I first got the bow, it felt like 80%, I was holding nothing! This settting has little valley, I t goes from peak weight to wall in an instant and feels like I am hold back most of the draw weight. I guess I just need to start playing with the settings unitl I get draw length close to 29.5 and a good let off.
03-16-2013, 07:05 AM
I think you'll just have to play with it. try moving the stop towards the -. Just small adjustments. If that doesn't work go the other way.
For a 2012 Pantera 29.5 DL says 2.5 setting. Try moving the module to that and leave the stop where it is. Put it on your draw board and draw just to 29.5. See what that looks like. Then move the Stop until it meets the limb.
Ok, I finally got a chance to go to the shop and spend some time tinkering with the cam. As ya'll have said, moving the draw stop towards the + increases let off and increases draw length. But it seems that I can't get max let off/long valley to correspond with my draw length unless I back the draw module to 1.5 and move the draw stop towards the +. At these settings though, the string is definitely contacting the axel. It seems that if I put the draw module on 2.5 to 3, closer to my draw length, put the bow on a draw board and crank it back to just where the sting is about to hit the axle, set the draw stop against the limb, and then take it off and draw it, the bow is much less than 80% let off.
SOooooo, the only way to get more let off is to move it towards the + and then the string starts hitting the axel again. I am frustrated to say the least. Seems that in order to get 80% let off I have to wrap the string around the axel? But this does not seem right from what ya'll have said. Frustrated to say the least :mad:
03-30-2013, 10:25 PM
Not sure if this will help, but I just setup my new Pantera - its a 60#'er but has the same cams. Anyway I didn't worry too much about what the manual said or what # it was set to - I just increased the drawlength until the valley felt right. I think it hit an inch or so before I was at my normal set point. (I used to build Greenland Kayaks, so I don't get too uptight about measurements...) Up until this point, the draw stop was set fairly far out, so I could continue to draw the string back farther than I liked - got as far as my ear before I gave up.
The next thing I did was to set the draw stop to a spot shorter than was comfortable - then gradually move it back until the wall hit right at my normal set point. My previous bow didn't have a draw stop, but the cams had a pretty solid back wall on their own, but not as nice as this.
Hope it helps,
BTW - just pulled my bow out - the drawlength is set to #3 and based on my arm span, my drawlength should be 29".
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