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J Dean
04-24-2013, 06:11 AM
I know this has been covered before but I need help with this before I pack it in on this bow.

Bought a 2012 Pantera 70# version. When I got it it had been repositioned to the -10 post. This was fine as 60# max is great. I am trying to get my DL set and draw stop set and having no luck. I try different module positions and cannot feel wall of module and feel like I am overdrawing. An inspection on the cable shows it is contacting the axle I believe. I have tried different positions and draw stop locations and cannot get it to adjust without contacting cable and axle. I am about ready to list this for sale for a great price for someone if I can't get it set.

HELP!!!!!

My DL is 28.5" and it is at -10 peg setting it at 60# max(70 limbs)

Where should I start with this? What module setting? Location of draw stop? I need to get back in the ball park on it cause right now I am totally confused and dont want to screw with it anymore

John

archerx7
04-24-2013, 06:54 AM
The module itself won't provide any kind of wall on that cam. You need to set the draw stop peg so that it conacts the limb at the same time the cable contacts the axle. The Fury XT has a fairly short valley, so you do need to shoot this cam with good form and back tension to avoid creeping out of the valley, pretty similar to most hybrid cams on the market, and some aggresive single cams.

Plainsman
04-24-2013, 08:35 AM
This helped me out.

http://www.martinarchery.com/2013/past_specs.php

joelc
04-24-2013, 08:45 AM
The module itself won't provide any kind of wall on that cam. You need to set the draw stop peg so that it conacts the limb at the same time the cable contacts the axle.

No. The draw stop needs to hit the limb prior to the cable making contact with the axle. If the cable does make contact it will cause premature wear to the serving. You should see approx. 1/8th of an inch clearance between cable and the center hub at full draw.

J Dean
04-24-2013, 10:34 AM
This is the problem I set the module to 2.5 for the 28.5" DL on the -10 peg as shown in the spec sheet. But then dont know where to start out with draw stop. Should it be in middle of range? or offset cloer to one end? Which end? I can't see the cable when I draw because of the location so it is difficult to gauge when we are close and when we are touching.

John

archerx7
04-24-2013, 10:53 AM
Start with the stop set appox. 3/4" inch away from the ( - ) end of the slot, draw the bow and keep making very minor adjustments untill the valley and wall are correct. You'll only need to move the stop no more than 1/16" at a time, a very small adjustment will go a long way.

J Dean
04-24-2013, 11:05 AM
OK will start there. Now the - end of the slot is the end that will hit sooner upon drawing the bow?

Plainsman
04-24-2013, 01:21 PM
Yea..what archerx7 said. I used that basic same approach and fine tuned the draw stop on my Silencer. Everything now very comfortable and smooth. I was getting to much of "bam" stop at first.

droppixel
04-24-2013, 02:59 PM
No. The draw stop needs to hit the limb prior to the cable making contact with the axle. If the cable does make contact it will cause premature wear to the serving. You should see approx. 1/8th of an inch clearance between cable and the center hub at full draw.

BAM! Something I've been waiting to hear! Was never sure where we should be seeing things with this cam at full draw, now I got a really good starting point for my tinkering.

Hutch~n~Son Archery
04-24-2013, 03:30 PM
BAM! Something I've been waiting to hear! Was never sure where we should be seeing things with this cam at full draw, now I got a really good starting point for my tinkering.

Now you can add that to your box of tricks!



Hutch:cool:

typically8
04-24-2013, 08:33 PM
What I did for my ds was loosen it just enough to move under pressure then draw to my anchor pt and let down. This moved it close enough to where I wanted then made teeny tiny adjustment.