View Full Version : left tear

06-06-2013, 07:31 PM
I had a left tear on my exile adjusted the cam lean out and it got worse. My new alien z has a left tear also.
I have adjusted the rest and changed Arrows. I have also shot it on my shooting machine and still have a left tear

Sonny Thomas
06-06-2013, 07:38 PM
More information would be nice. Draw weight, draw length, arrow, arrow build and so forth.

06-06-2013, 08:03 PM
Alien z f7 module 60# 29" arrow 400 easton storm and victory v6 350. The exile is the same typing this on my phone is why the imfo is so brief

06-06-2013, 08:20 PM
first i would start thinking of spending a little more on arrows. if u are gonna take the time to paper tune, good on ya but start with an arrow tolerance of no more than .003. i love victory arrows but go with v1 or v3. are u sure your rest is centered correctly. have u done a walk off?

Sonny Thomas
06-07-2013, 07:39 AM
No blaming the arrows here.

What rest? Full description of your arrow build?

When you get some time to really give us a good run down I could probably land some stuff on you.

06-07-2013, 06:48 PM
The exile has always had left tear and currently has a wisker biscuit It got worse eliminating cam lean (twisting yoke) I'm planning on yoke tuning it.
The alien z has a nap apache rest (it came off the exile) I havent had alot of itme to work with it yet. I couldn't get the left tear out with the easton storms so I got the victory v6 and it didn't seem to help. This bow is just walkback tuned for now. My sons pantera is the only bow we have that shoots bullet holes. Even my daughters Nemesis has a small left tear (40# limbdriver pro v beeman speedhunter 500 2"quickspins) I kinda felt like it was just the charcteristic of the bows until I keep reading threads about people with perfect tears.
The arrows I have to try are 29" storm 400 2" blazer 100gr fp
Victory v6 29"350 2" blazer
Goldtip 7595 31" 2" blazers ( my sons arrows I'm gonna try these this weekend)
I know paper tuning is just one way of tuning but it seems to be beating me
This is my shooting machine
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z255/beadrunner/20121208_170328.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/beadrunner/media/20121208_170328.jpg.html)

Sonny Thomas
06-07-2013, 10:46 PM
First, bullet holes don't tell all. I use paper for one thing, to make sure the arrow is coming out of the bow cleanly, no contact and no radical tears. I perfer a little high and a little right or left is okay. After that I go with a shortened version of the French Tuning procedure. I Posted of a bunch of tuning procedures, like in don't drive yourself nuts.

If long range is the game I use the standard French Tuning procedure, 9 feet out to 55 or 60 yards depending on bow speed. Zeroing in at 9 feet usually puts on at 55 yards. This perfection of center shot and the longer the distance the more perfect center shot can be.

Some say it's Walk Back tuning, but seems to me there is a difference. I use a vertical line about 1/2" wide. For side to side I zero in on it from 10 feet. Once zeroed in I move back to 30 yards. Using the same pin I shoot for the vertical line. If a bit left, move the rest a bit right. Vice versa if the arrow impact right. I return to 10 feet and start over. When the arrow is dead center at both 10 feet and 30 yards center shot is good enough for reasonable distances, dead on for 50 yards at least.

I use the above for my hunting bow, my target bows and my customers bows. When tuning for Martin staff shooters I used the same procedure.

If problems surface I may use paper to see how the arrow is flying at varying distances.

My arrows are cut to length with a plan. The plan being the arrow being 1" longer than point of contact of arrow and rest at full draw. After length is found I go to the arrow charts. Draw weight, cam, point weight and length of arrow. Follow the arrow chart and spine is pretty much taken care of.

Depending on the rest, like drop aways, arrows should be long enough to clear the front of the shelf of the riser. IE, draw cord rests don't fully rise until the last inch or inch and half. Hooking a fixed broadhead on the shelf is a possibility.

What year Exile do you have? If of the TRG/SOS, go with a offset guide rod to get rid of all the severe cable angle you can. Use a steel rod and bend it. Still, TRG equiped bows can be tuned.

Bows that have yokes I will correct cam lean. Otherwise, cam lean is cam lean. I don't yoke tune and I'm not about to start. Beside, my bows don't have yokes.

Might have missed areas. I do use levels for bow, rest, and arrow when setting up. Okay, I do things that work for me. I use no tricks, just straight forward archery stuff.

06-08-2013, 04:20 AM
Thanks for the info. I'll give it a try

06-08-2013, 04:48 PM
I use paper tuning If I don't get a bullet hole I adjust for a clean tear them do walk back

06-10-2013, 05:26 PM
I walk back tuned yesterday everything went well until I started to sight in. Half of my center serving started sliding up carrying my dloop with it. I pushed it back down and put some glue on it. Can I serve above it with some small serving (spiderwire) to hold it in place?

Sonny Thomas
06-10-2013, 06:59 PM
I'd just re-serve.

06-10-2013, 07:30 PM
This is on the alien only about 50 shots. How hard is it to tie center serving. The only serving I've done is dropaway and peep with continous half hitches

06-10-2013, 09:12 PM
Reserving the center is pretty easy, but it is easier to show than to describe, so follow this link to a good video. LINK (http://youtu.be/0hwQiKAWl2k)

Hutch~n~Son Archery
06-11-2013, 02:53 AM
One thing to remember serve it with the twists in the string otherwise you will get peep rotation.