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WildWilt15
06-09-2013, 02:14 PM
Who is shooting one? How's it stack? Hows the quality? I picked one up for cheap looking into what i just got myself into lol.

WildWilt15
06-11-2013, 08:52 PM
Anybody?

elkslayer4x5
06-12-2013, 09:42 AM
Guess no one is shooting one. According to what I read on the X-200 web page, its 60" length draws smooth, reading further, Martin says that the Mamba's 58" length allows up to an 28" draw, so I'd guess that the extra 2" will be smooth up to at least 29" draw. Concidering the bowyers skill employed at Martins facility ( take a look at the draw curve of the Gail Martin Signature Recurve, admittley a top end bow ) I would think that you will have gradual stacking.
I draw a 30" arrow and a 60" bow pinches my fingers, especially shooting split fingers ( one over and two under the arrow ), less when shooting 3 under. Please let us know how it shoots when it finally gets to you. :)

DeanRM
06-12-2013, 11:38 AM
When you are asking "How much does it stack?", you might want to specify at what draw length and poundage bow. It probably has 2.5#/in at 28", which is not considered excessive stacking. It may have a tendancy to stack at 30" and beyond.

They are fine bows. My advice would be to start out with a light weight bow, in the 30#-35# range until you develop proper form, then increase your draw weight.

Good luck!

WildWilt15
06-12-2013, 11:57 AM
When you are asking "How much does it stack?", you might want to specify at what draw length and poundage bow. It probably has 2.5#/in at 28", which is not considered excessive stacking. It may have a tendancy to stack at 30" and beyond.

They are fine bows. My advice would be to start out with a light weight bow, in the 30#-35# range until you develop proper form, then increase your draw weight.

Good luck!

It's not my first recurve so I understand how the draw weight is completely different then a compound. It's a 45# @ 28 I pull a recurve about 29-29.5 I know my saber 50# stacks about 3.5# per inch. I know some bows have relatively no stacking. Also I don't know if anyone has ot2 but I was also wondering what ball park I should be in for arrows.

CaptJJ
06-12-2013, 12:42 PM
I have a 2009 40# X-200 that I started shooting in April after shooting a 28# Bear recurve for a year to learn good form; I second Dean's recommendation to start out light.

This one doesn't seem to stack, but my draw isn't much over 28". Bear in mind your draw length will probably be shorter than with a compound(around an inch).

These bows are well made, they retail for almost $500, got mine new on eBay for a steal.:cool: The 2007(I think) and newer ones have reinforced limb tips to shoot low stretch(Fast Flight) strings instead of Dacron.

I have a thread on this forum going about the X-200 and Hunter recurves.

elkslayer4x5
06-12-2013, 06:52 PM
The reinforced limb tips where added in 2008, according to the web site. The X-200 was not in the 2010 Traditional line-up, prior to that as far back as I can go for web pages ( 2008 ) the riser was made of Birch, with muted Olive overtones and had Eastern hard maple with black fiberglass limbs. Prior to 2008, the limb tips were not reinforced. After 2010, the riser was made of solid Shedua with easteren hard maple and black fiberglass limbs. That should help identify the build year. Unless, of course, you already know when it was built. :)
As for arrow spine, if you're going to be shooting cedars, look for 45-50#s. You're only going to stack to maybe 48#s. Here's Wapiti Archery's web site, old school Port Orford Cedar, in both tapered and parallel shafts. Highly recomended, beautifull shafts, and cheap full length feathers.

http://www.wapitiarchery.com/?cid=17

WildWilt15
06-13-2013, 08:56 AM
I am unsure of the year but I will post pics when it comes on Monday or Tuesday hopefully it's after 2010

WildWilt15
06-14-2013, 08:50 AM
The reinforced limb tips where added in 2008, according to the web site. The X-200 was not in the 2010 Traditional line-up, prior to that as far back as I can go for web pages ( 2008 ) the riser was made of Birch, with muted Olive overtones and had Eastern hard maple with black fiberglass limbs. Prior to 2008, the limb tips were not reinforced. After 2010, the riser was made of solid Shedua with easteren hard maple and black fiberglass limbs. That should help identify the build year. Unless, of course, you already know when it was built. :)
As for arrow spine, if you're going to be shooting cedars, look for 45-50#s. You're only going to stack to maybe 48#s. Here's Wapiti Archery's web site, old school Port Orford Cedar, in both tapered and parallel shafts. Highly recomended, beautifull shafts, and cheap full length feathers.

http://www.wapitiarchery.com/?cid=17

Wow sweet site

Stevtech
06-27-2013, 09:24 PM
Happy with my groupings but my two unfletched arrows are out in left field.
Literature says its to heavy spline on arrows. New arrows - expensive.
Heavier bow; Not an option. Heavier tips, could be, but how much? is it practical. Adjust rest in and out with no change.
I will go back to the shop tomorrow. I hope they can help.

Not much input from this web site.

Arrow Splitter
06-28-2013, 03:41 PM
Not much input from this web site.
That's because many of us on here are not traditional shooters. I'm not a traditional guy myself. Hopefully as this forum gains new members there will be more input.

By the way, Welcome to the Martin Tech Forum.

A.S

CaptJJ
06-28-2013, 07:09 PM
Happy with my groupings but my two unfletched arrows are out in left field.
Literature says its to heavy spline on arrows. New arrows - expensive.
Heavier bow; Not an option. Heavier tips, could be, but how much? is it practical. Adjust rest in and out with no change.
I will go back to the shop tomorrow. I hope they can help.

Not much input from this web site.

Can't really give you much input with the information provided??? Draw weight? Draw length? Arrow length? Spine? Tip weight? What bow are you shooting? Can't be an X-200, since you mentioned adjusting the rest in/out.

Best way to get help is to start a new thread and ask the right questions.:cool:

dahdav
07-08-2013, 12:14 PM
I picked one up new a couple weeks back. It's been a number of years since the last time I held any bow so my opinion is rather limited. It looks well made and the reinforced tips are a good idea with the new high tech strings we now have. I expected a long learning curve to acquire some amount of accuracy but this bow made it easy getting back into form. Or so it seemed. 3 inch groups at 15 yards may not be noteworthy but taking into account my 3 decade absence, that's pretty good to me. The only issue I had was with the stringer. I had a heck of a time trying to get the string to slide up under the leather boot which was crowding the string groove. It's incredibly light which will be noticed on those long treks and hits where you point it. I didn't notice an excessive amount of string noise which to me shouldn't be an issue anyway. If an animal can duck an arrow from that warning alone, it probably deserves to live.

CaptJJ
07-08-2013, 12:42 PM
Nice choice, they really are a light bow.

The stringers that come with the bow are difficult to use, at best. I picked up a Selway/Limbsaver stringer and it works great, has a large cup for the lower limb and a rubber pad for the upper that allows you to slide the string.

dahdav
07-08-2013, 12:57 PM
Thanks for the tip. I'm going to head over to local shop and see if they have a Selway stringer. From what I've read, you're not supposed to use the old over the leg method anymore. I think it's a matter of how it's done as to whether you twist your bow into a pretzel or not but I'm not one to argue.