View Full Version : Hello! New here, with tuning blues!

02-18-2014, 07:11 PM
Hello. Ive registered on this message board because I am having serious issues with a new PSE Rally. 65# @ 29" shooting Easton Axis 340. I have them cut short so they are stiff, but I was able to get a fist size group at 60 yards with bareshafts in the group.

Was shooting fine, but the nock point was 1/8" below square. (in relation to the full shaft, not from burger hole)

I realize this is excessive by most standards, but I believe everyone has the right to have their bows shoot as well as they can.

PSE Rally 65# @ 29" draw
Axis 340 @ 27" with 100g tips , 3 RH helical
QAD LD set through burger hole
Optimizer lite slider .019"
Scott Shark double jaw caliper release

I have the nock point set to 90 degrees and a tie in nock set below the arrow.

I syncronized the cams to hit exactly on a draw board. I realize I hold the bow another way than the draw board does, so I went a step more with this. What I did was glue a short length of paper to a single strand of bowstring material and tied a key ring to the other end. I made two of these and had several family members pinch the paper-with-string-weight between the draw stops and cables while I held the bow at full draw.

the idea here was to creep forwards very slowly and see which cam was leaving the cable first. I confirmed the top cam was indeed rolling over first and made some microscopic tweeks until as I crept forwards, they both left the cables exactly the same time.

Ok, should be good to go, but on paper at ten feet I have a two inch nock high rip. Ive confirmed I have no fletching contact, also bareshafts have the same nock high tear.

Let me back up a second. When I first set up the bow, I timed and synced the cams and adjusted the nock heigth until I had the smallest bareshaft bullet hole I could get out to 30 yards with a bare shaft. I then built a fancy set of strings with 8190, went through the whole thing. Stretched the set at 300# for an hour, served with 5.5# of tention on the serving jig while the string was under 300#. I also removed all the wax, and rounded out the strings and cables with a strip of leather. I believe I did alot better job of making the strings than PSE did on the factory set.
I tried to retune the bow, to no avail, so I placed the factory set back on it.

I know I can just adjust the nocking point to 1/8" below square and have bareshafts, fletched, and broadheads all slapping at thirty yards again (usually wont stop until I can get this result)

Ive found I have no fletching contact, and the cams are hitting stops at the same time.

The bottom cam makes its full rotation back to the timing mark, but the top does not. It stops with the back of the white timing mark, even with the front of the cable.

A few ideas, and I was wondering your opinions.

1: PSE string maker for this bow might not have rounded out both cables very well around the ends that were served and run through the cams, making them take up and pay out at unequal rates, giving me poor vertical nock travel?

2: I might have a set of miss matched limbs, the top being stronger or actually recovering faster? (I always thought the bottom was prone to recover slightly faster because it is working towards gravity, while the top has to fight slightly harder to recover because its going up)?

3: This bow was designed to be shot with a torqueless loop, or with both knots under the arrow? (this will change a nock high to nock low, dont know why, I assume because youre pulling harder on bottom limb)

So lets here it guys. I am new to this sport and realize alot of you fellas really know your stuff. When I get my head in the game, it doesnt matter what it is, I want to know it all.
If I am spot on with something here, let me know.
If I am missunderstood on something or have been missinformed, by all rights help me out!

Something is amiss. Nocking below the 90 degrees to get good arrow flight means something is wrong.

I tuned my bear target bow with Blurred Motion Photography and it shot like a dream. I used a digital camera and a lighted nock to take a picture of what the tail end of the arrow was doing durring the shot. (ever seen a picture of a fireworks display that shows the whole streak across the sky? same thing)
Once I removed all the vertical nock travel with the other bow, I was able to get 6"-8" groups at 100 yards nearly every time. Just for fun I shot a bareshaft at 235 yards. It landed point first.

Back to the PSE Rally. One Idea Ive come up with is to add extra strands under the serving where the bow string wraps around the bottom cam. This will make the bottom cam actually pull in more bowstring durring the shot. Ive dont this with another bow and had bareshafts at 60 with fletched.

Due to the incredible distances Ive shot bareshafts, accurately, I know my coach is right. This is a bow issue, not a form flaw, or bowhand torque. My drawlength is pretty close to spot on. Im not saying I couldnt use some work, but in the two years Ive been shooting, ive had alot of help from guys that should be on tv, they shoot that good.

I am sorry if my story hasnt come out right, or has been hard to understand. I suffered a sickness that nearly killed me, basically making me retarded to the point I couldnt speek a sentence. Its taken alot of time to learn how to write and spell words again, so i very much thank you for any help you fellas can provide, as well as any ideas you might come up with.

Thank you for your time, and God Bless you!!