View Full Version : Damaged cam

04-06-2008, 12:22 PM
My last post was about the differences between Slayers and SlayRs. Since then the SlayR that I bought ( through the ArcheryTalk classified ads ) arrived and upon inspection, I discovered what appears to me a damaged cam. Is this bow safe to shoot? How can I repair the cam? There are numerous dings and burrs on the lower cam, although only two that make contact with the string, one I can see, and one that I can feel with a fingernail run along the string. I think I need help, what should I do ?


04-06-2008, 12:38 PM
Were you notified of the scratches? If you were not the guy who sold it to you deserves to be reamed out real good.

Maybe a machinist can fi it. Since you are not the original owner, the warrenty is no longer valid.

04-06-2008, 12:50 PM
Oh yeah, I let the seller know as soon as I found the damaged cam. I can't really get into too much more than that, without slinging mud, other than to say that I sent him the above photo and 3 others yesterday. Have'nt heard back from him as yet. I still have hope that he will respond. The seller has good feedback, for what thats worth.
What do you think, is it safe to shoot? And do those cams bend? Looks like it took a pretty good hit, to end up like that. The good news is my son is a machinist, but the bad news is, he lives an eight hour drive from me.

04-06-2008, 01:09 PM
I think that they are beyond scratches. The dings and gouges on the outer sides of the cam are mostly cosmedic ( sorry about spelling ) but the internal ones are of concern. Here are the rest of the pictures




My thoughts are that the larger gouge (in the first picture ) will begin to fray and or cut the string. As it is now, I'm scared to shoot it.

04-06-2008, 10:18 PM
Do you have a bow press? If not her is what I'd do. I'd back off the limb bolts enough to remove the string from the cams, Get you a piece of 400 grit sand paper and fold it about two or three timesd so it is rather stiff. Then sand out the knicks in the string groove. You can do the ones on the exterior, too, but as youy said, these are just cosmetic.

If it were me I would have taken care of this before I sold the bow, and would have stated so. However, just a bit of the sanding I mentioned will make the bow as good as new.

04-07-2008, 10:35 AM
Is it normal for the string to be off to one side? Seems to me that the string is riding the right side of the groove, not in the center. In responce to bfisher's post, are you saying that I can back off the limb bolts enough to remove the string without a bow press? Please remember that I have no experience with compound bows. And that the nearest proshop to me is at least a two hour drive from here.


04-07-2008, 01:50 PM
Right, you can do that.


Do this only with Martin compound bows. Every other Compound would be damaged if you back out the limb bolts and remove the string.

04-07-2008, 03:33 PM
Right, you can do that.


Do this only with Martin compound bows. Every other Compound would be damaged if you back out the limb bolts and remove the string.

Important:make sure you only back them no further than when you start to see daylight through the barrel nut the limb bolt goes through and then maybe two more turns but no more than that for each limb bolt.

04-08-2008, 08:36 AM
I think it should be possible to the remove the string from the cam before the daylight is visible through the barrel. xD

04-08-2008, 01:57 PM
It depends on how much deflection you have in the limbs and how short the limb bolt is. They put a short one in one of my Slayers one time. It was almost imposible to get the string back on. Luckily i do have a press.

04-08-2008, 03:07 PM
Oh. I did not know that there are different lengths. Thought that it would be always the same standard length.

04-08-2008, 03:19 PM
Backing off the limb bolts till daylight is visable thru the barrel nut does not allow me to remove the string. At that point there is still plenty of tension on the limbs. enough that the string is still tight, although one of the cables is loose. Not loose enough to remove it. Any other ideas?

04-08-2008, 04:50 PM
Man. Sorry about you troubles. But the next time you are in town, invest $40.00 in a portable bow press. I never go anywhere with out mine.

My bottom cam has verious dings on it. But not as bad as yours. The dings don't look bad enough to affect the strenght of the cam. With the limb bolts backed off as much as you can get them, can you move the string over enough to hone the ding in the string track enough to get the sharp edges off. I wouldn't hone anymore than nessary or the string may not want to track wright.


04-09-2008, 08:56 AM
Not able to move string over to the side. This bow has the X-shoot through system, don't know if that is whats holding it tight. While futzing around with the bow I don't know if it is safe to shoot, I noticed that the cams seem to lean. Since I can't shoot it, I thought I might as well check it to see if the cams do indeed lean. Yeah, they do. Not a lot, but then what is a lot. To find out how much they lean, I used a 4' level, which I layed on the sides of the cams, figuring that if they where aligned that they would make even contac all along. They don't. When I lay the level on the left side of the cams, the contact is just on the cam's 'toe', and when on the right side there is a measurable gap at the 'toe'. 5/64" on the top cam and 3/64" on the bottom cam. Is this badly out-of-line, or normal varience?

04-09-2008, 12:10 PM
If you measure the axle to axle length on both sides, you'll see one side is a bit longer. Get that bow press people are talking about so you can unload it & shorten (twist up) the cables on the side where the A2A measured long.

Get the A2A the same on both sides & most all of the cam lean should be gone.

Maybe a jewelers/gunsmith file, or a chainsaw file can work those burs down on the cam, then finish it smooth with emory cloth or sand paper. Nice that there's no black anodized finish to sand off, just bare aluminum to work with. Should look nice when you're done.

04-09-2008, 01:49 PM
You should be able to put pressure on the oposite cable thereby taking the other side off and twisting or untwisting to the desired number of turns. I can do this with all my Martins with the shoot through system even while the limb are bottomed out (though it is easier with some tension taken out). You do not need something so cumbersome as a level to check for cam lean. All you need is a strait arrow laid along side the cam; as long as the string at the cam end is the same or pretty close to the same distance as the arrow to string distance at the other end I would say your cam lean is practically non existent. I would say as long as it is 1/8" or less you should not worry about it anymore.

04-10-2008, 09:04 AM
I used the level because I want to check the alignment to top and bottom cams to each other, I don't have a 40" + arrow to do that with, do you? Thanks for explaining how to true up the alignment. Drove 180 + miles yesterday to get to a small archery shop, so that I could get a bow press. Cam fixed !!! Once I had the string off, it was an easy fix, put the smallest grindstone I had in the Dremel, took more time getting my position right than it did the buzz out that burr. I then used a really fine whetstone to polish out the rest of the burrs. Put a new string on, got every thing set up, and at last I got to shoot the bow, Its everythig I thought it would be ! And Wow ! its fast. Not too sure about that relaese thing however, Last evening, thought I slip out and fire a few more arrows, and now today I'll need to go out into the woods out back to try and find that arrow I heard thunk into a tree after the release went off mid draw. Thanks for all of your help and suggestions. :D

04-10-2008, 10:46 AM
It does not have to be that long. As long as it rides along the string and remains the pretty much the same distance between string and strait edge you are fine. After you do one cam then you do the same for the other cam.