View Full Version : Suggestions for 07 Pantera

05-28-2008, 05:55 PM
I have a new 07 Pantera and I would like some suggestions as to what to put on it to hunt with. I am fairly new to bow hunting and any advice about sights, arrow rests, stabilizers, and other things would be greatly appreciated. I am thinking of using a release with this bow which is a totally new concept for me so suggestions on a release would be fine as well.

05-29-2008, 02:14 AM
I have nothing to do with hunt so do not believe everythin i say. :P

Sight - Use a pin sight. I heard that the hogg-it by spot hogg is a good choice to go with but there are so many other brands you could get a sight from...

Arrow Rest - Some swear on the Whisker Biscuit for hunting but some say that the WB ruins their feathers so you could compare it to other rests. You could get a containment rest like the WB or another manufacturer with similar ideas. The other choice could be a drop away rest. You should get to a shop and compare what you like better.

Stabilizer - There are so many stabilizer you can choose from. And everyone likes his own the best. Vibracheck, Posten, Doinker, Sims, ... Get to your local shop and try them out. Take what you like the most.

Release - Better do not get an backtension release for Bowhunt. I refer to the Carter Evolution/Backstrab. It is hard to control it. Try out several release types to determine what you need.

Have you gat a bow quiver? You should think about that if not.
Did you buy Broadheads? I can say you should think about the Silverflames. They are not so cheap as any other brands but they are handcrafted and will last for many years.

05-29-2008, 06:10 AM
Yeah, there is a ton of personal preference to all of this. I use a 3 pin Toxonics K9 which I like fine, however I just bought my daughter a Trophy Ridge Pyro and I think I like it better. For a hunting rest I definitely prefer a WB, nothing to go wrong in any kind of environment. Now I do use Blazers for fletchings - they are pretty well impervious to a WB. You'll loose about 2fps in speed with one so don't pay any attention to that issue. I've been using Doinker stabs I have a 7" and my daughter a 10" I like the 10" for function better but the 7" is handy for walking through the woods/undergrowth. I've had 3 different releases and I like my Scott the best. For broadheads I've used G5's and now MX3's both flew well. As long as you have a sharp head and good shot placement if the heads flies well for you I don't think it matters all that much. Having said all this you may prefer none of my choices and you wouldn't be wrong! I agree with Montalaar, go check out as much different product as you can - that's actually fun shopping!

05-29-2008, 04:43 PM
You know what I'd do if I were new to the sport? I'd head into a local pro-shop and see what they have to offer. Here are just some general ideas of mine to anybody new to the sport. Keep it simple and keep it fairly inexpensive. High dollar and complicated isn't always the best for hunting. Let's see where to start:

Sight--- usually a pin is best for hunting. 3 pins are enough for quite a while. Sight in for 20-30-40 yards. This should be a practical limit for a while with 30 being a practical limit for most bowhunters with experience. Look for something made mostly of machined aluminum as these will be the most durable. Fiber optic pins is almost a given, but be sure they will be bright enough for when the light fades. Pin size is dependent on how good your vision is---.029" is pretty versatile. Steel pins. Make sure the sight has a nice deep pin guard so as to protect the pin and fibers well. A level is not really necessary for short range so don't make that a priority. Try these: Extreme RT900 Micro, Copper John Dead Nuts 2, Toxonics MOP K9 Hunter. My favorite is an HHA OL-5000 single pin adjustable. Most expensive one is $100 (HHA).

Rest----I don't use them, but I'd recommend a Whisker Bisquit for starters. They're fairly inexpensive by today's standards and foolproof. Maybe later you can play around and put a drop-away on after you have a better understanding of how things work, but for now........KISS (keep it simple stupid). Cost---$45 (maybe)

Stabilizer---Short and compact isn't the way to go. Something around 7" should be a minimum and 12" maximum. There are lots of them. Look at and try many different ones. What you are looking for here is something that helps balance the bow in your hand. If you hold the bow out in a shooting position if it rocks forward a little that's OK. You don't want the top limb tilting back towards you. Rubber coating or something like that to keep it from clanging if it hits something is nice. They are also designed to absorb bow vibration so consider this. Simm's S-Coil works well. Doinker Armored Hunter 7" is another. Stabilizer should cost about $25-$50.

Peep and Kisser button--- you don't need both, but it's OK to do so. For starters use a peep with a tube. The tubeless peeps are better, but that comes later after you learn how to set a peep for proper rotation. Something with about a 3/16" hole or bigger for hunting.

Release---probably a caliper/wrist strap type. Scott makes some good ones as does True Ball. There are tons to look at. Don't go cheap here. Try a lot of them and get a good one that is ajustable for trigger travel and tension. Contrary to what you'll see mst of a buckle wrist strap is better than Velcro (Velcro is just convenient). Also it should be adjustable for length as this comes in handy later when fine tuing for draw length and shooting form. Tru_Ball Stinger is decent at $38, but you might want more features so upwards of $80.

Arrows---Choose midrange for quality and midrange for price. Easton/Beman and Gold Tip are always a good choice. ou're probably going to lose or wreck quite a few arrows along the learning curve so don't be sucked into buying $100+ arrows. About $80/doz should work very well for w while. Gold Tip Expedition or XT for now. Maybe Easton Epics. Make sure your arrows are spined for the length and bow eight you'll shoot. Vanes or feathers doesn't matter but vanes will be more durable through a Whisker Bisquit.

Bow Quiver----you don't need one yet. You have all summer to play and look.

Broadheads---Same as for a quiver.

Now all this stuff I've mentioned can be seen and tried at any decent shop. If they have stuff and won't let you try it then go somewhere else. Before committing you can look at all this stuff on www.lancasterarchery.com.

What did we forget?

05-29-2008, 09:03 PM
Thanks for the information. I now have some place to start. I do plan on visiting my local archery shop to get set up.

05-30-2008, 09:22 AM
Don't just hand them the bow and let them set it up. Watch and learn. Ask questions. If you have a good shop they'll be glad to take some time and teach you. Ask them to help you TUNE the bow. They can set it up, but you have to shoot it to tune it.

Good luck.