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gpalma
07-30-2008, 07:35 AM
Have made up some std split-yoke cables for my Mystic and will be taking the X system off for fall shooting. I assume that all that is required is to remove the 2nd module from each cam (the module with the axle cutout) and then using a shorter flat head cap screw for the module.

Can anyone verify that this is all that is required?

Appreciate it.

gpalma
07-30-2008, 08:12 AM
Crud...

Upon closer inspection, it seems as though the module away from the sight window is the one that is not being used in a conventional cable setup mode. Now, is it necessary that the X-module be removed at all? Can the new cable simply be wrapped on the module closest to the sight window and the entire cam/X-module be left in place? It would seem that the entire assembly may be a bit out of kilter if done like this however.

Anyone have a pic of the conventional, non-X assembly?

TYIA

Montalaar
07-30-2008, 09:08 AM
I do not see why you should have to remove the X-Module when not using it, but...

.. it is not that much work to do so and god knows if there is not any difference. Maybe the weight will make it slower, or the additional weight on the unsued side has any other unwanted effects.

If you have a right hand bow the module you need for standard cable guard use is the right one, looking from the string to the riser.

bfisher
07-30-2008, 08:15 PM
Crud...

Upon closer inspection, it seems as though the module away from the sight window is the one that is not being used in a conventional cable setup mode. Now, is it necessary that the X-module be removed at all? Can the new cable simply be wrapped on the module closest to the sight window and the entire cam/X-module be left in place? It would seem that the entire assembly may be a bit out of kilter if done like this however.

Anyone have a pic of the conventional, non-X assembly?

TYIA

You got it!!!!!!!!! You can remove the X mod just as you explained, but you don't have to. Leave it on and you can always put the X cables back on. Simple enough?

scepterman30x
07-31-2008, 07:52 AM
You got it!!!!!!!!! You can remove the X mod just as you explained, but you don't have to. Leave it on and you can always put the X cables back on. Simple enough?

ditto!!!!!

gpalma
08-01-2008, 10:01 AM
Okidoki.

I hate to take the 4 cable system off, but it is the only way that I can get enough fletch to clear to control fixed blade heads for our broadhead shoots. Once the indoor 3D season begins, they can go back on :)

Montalaar
08-01-2008, 10:36 AM
What kind of broadheads do you use?

Most broadheads should work with low profile feathers.

scepterman30x
08-01-2008, 02:41 PM
Okidoki.

I hate to take the 4 cable system off, but it is the only way that I can get enough fletch to clear to control fixed blade heads for our broadhead shoots. Once the indoor 3D season begins, they can go back on :)

You are using the wide axle kit...aren't you?

gpalma
08-03-2008, 08:11 AM
I use a 4" parabolic Trueflight feather with 85Gr Thunderheads for broadhead events. The combination has worked for just about ever, the heads are very durable and is very deadly accurate combination. Even if those feathers are carefully indexed, there will be contact with the X-Cables.

I do have the long axle kit.

What concerned me most was that the one module has tapped holes and the other has countersunk holes for the flat head cap screws as supplied from Martin. If the module with countersunk holes is removed, there must be some type of a plate that Martin uses to replace that module. The cam itself has no provision for a button head cap screw to bottom out against. Understand that I have never seen a Mystic with anything but the X-system, so I am only assuming.

If the X-module can stay in place, it certainly makes life easier. I'll remove the two 10-strand cables and just put a 20 or 22 strand cable on. The bow will only be shot at 52-55#.

scepterman30x
08-04-2008, 10:03 AM
I use a 4" parabolic Trueflight feather with 85Gr Thunderheads for broadhead events. The combination has worked for just about ever, the heads are very durable and is very deadly accurate combination. Even if those feathers are carefully indexed, there will be contact with the X-Cables.

I do have the long axle kit.

What concerned me most was that the one module has tapped holes and the other has countersunk holes for the flat head cap screws as supplied from Martin. If the module with countersunk holes is removed, there must be some type of a plate that Martin uses to replace that module. The cam itself has no provision for a button head cap screw to bottom out against. Understand that I have never seen a Mystic with anything but the X-system, so I am only assuming.

If the X-module can stay in place, it certainly makes life easier. I'll remove the two 10-strand cables and just put a 20 or 22 strand cable on. The bow will only be shot at 52-55#.

When you take the countersunk mod off, the cam should have the countersunk holes in it also...under the mod. All in all you do not need to move either mod to do what you want.