View Full Version : Suggested arrow weight
11-02-2008, 09:44 AM
:confused:I just bought the 08 Firecat. I am totally new to archery so I don't plan on any hunting until next spring (turkey). I am going to spend the winter just getting to know my bow. My question is, what arrows would you recommend for hunting. My bow is set at 55 lbs.draw weight with a 28 in draw lenght but I will probably max out the draw weight (60 lbs ) after I get used to the bow. Also, would I use the same arrows for Turkey and Whitetail.
11-02-2008, 10:40 AM
ummmm well with those settings i would suggest the Beman ICS 400 should be 8.4 gpi. thats what i shoot with a 67# weight with 28" and that is a petty light arrow for me so it should just right for that firecat. but i forgot to ask are you going to have a drop away rest or a whisker biscuit
11-02-2008, 11:11 AM
For that draw weight and length, that cam style (hard), I would pick something with a 400 spine. Notice I said "400 spine". Whatever brand of arrow you choose be sure and check with different manufacturers charts to see what translates to a 400 spine. You can't go with what's amrked on the arrows all the time.
With Easton/Beman any carbon arrow marked with a 400 will work. With Carbon Express they're going to be marked 200, such as the CX 200. They also have their Maxima 250.
Blackhawk will correlate to a 2000 series.
Gold Tip will be marked 5575 in their XT and Expeditions. Then they have their Utralite series that are marked as UL400.
There are so many choices that it can be quite confusing to a new shooter. First pick an arrow in the right spine size (400). Then you can look at straightness which will be marked as .006 up to an including .001. This is how straight, in inches, the arrow is supposed to be over it's length. Being new you'll have difficulty seeing a difference between .006 and .003. .003 is as straight as you'll need in any case. Arrows straight to .001 are better left for the experienced archer and just takes more money out of your wallet.
Then there is weight to be considered. Many manufacturers make arrows that are essentially the same spine, but have a different GPI (grains per inch). The weight per inch, point weight, fletching type will determine the overall weight of the finished arrow. The weight will determinehow much speed the arrow will get (light) or how much penetration (kinetic energy) can be had. Don't get caught up too much in either one. Almost any arrow you choose with the correct spine will be heavy enough to hunt deer sized game, but light enough to get acceptable speed. As you learn more over time you can make more choices on which way you want to go with this.
Durability always gets mentioned. Generally heavier arrows have thicker walls so will be slightly more durable, however if you are into shooting rocks and trees (we all do it occasionally) arrows are going to get damaged or destroyed. Just accept it as part of learning to shoot.
Price? Now you really get hammered. I've been shooting for many decades and shot everything from the cheapest aluminum up to and including Easton ACC's ($145/doz). Try to midle ground here. Essentially if you're paying somewhere between $70 and $100 for a dozen then you are getting some pretty good arrows. It's not necessary to shoot more expensive than that.
Black or Camo? Go with black. Camo looks cool, but that's the only advantage to them. All they do is cost you more money and are harder to pull from 3D targets when you get to that point.
OK, now some specifics:
CX Terminator Select 4560...............$80
Easton ST Epic or Excel 400..............$60 to $70
Gold Tip Expedition 5575...................$60
Gold Tip XT 5575.............................$75
Prices are retail from Lancaster Archery Catalog.
These are but a couple choices for you. Any will work just fine. The only othe thing I would mention is availability. You should kind of choose what's available from a local shop so you can get more in the future.
Got any other questions?
11-02-2008, 04:54 PM
Thanks for the great info. I just have one more question (for know). If I was to use the Easton St Epic arrows, what weight brodhead should I ues 100 grain or 125 grain.
11-02-2008, 04:55 PM
Thanks for the great info. I just have one more question (for now). If I was to use the Easton St Epic arrows, what weight brodhead should I ues 100 grain or 125 grain.
11-02-2008, 09:05 PM
Whether to use 100gr or 125gr is one of personal preference. The 400 spine is sufficient to handle to 125gr so that wouldn't be an issue. Personally, I'd choose 100gr and tune well for it.
I'm trying to think here. When are you planning on hunting with this rig? Next year, maybe? Don't worry about broadheads yet if that's the case. Work with field points in both weights to see what you think works best for you.
There is a lot of technical stuff you can learn during till you are ready to hunt. There are thins like learning decent, repeatable shooting form Then there is tuning the bow/arrow combination to perform it's best.
I could go on till you puke, but I'll just give you some sites to read all you want. Try www.huntersfriend.com. Check all the stuff under their technical section. Pay particular attention to anything written by Randy Ulmer.
For bow/arrow tuning there is nothing better than Easton's Tuning Guide.
Things like How to Grip (not) a bow and correct draw length are always important. Bone up on these. There are many threads on Archery Talk about them under the subject "shooting form". Nuts&Bolts is the guru on this stuff.
Have fun and come back any time you have a question.
11-03-2008, 02:39 PM
Thanks alot, I have been and will continue to read as much as possible about the sport, and all that is part of the sport.
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