View Full Version : First bow, what now?
I just purchased my first bow. After doing a lot of reading I resisted the urge to buy the fastest IBO speed, smallest, most wiz bang bow I could find. Instead I looked for a quality bow with a smooth draw and reasonable brace height. I was looking for a forgiving bow with enough power to cleanly & easily kill a white tail deer which is the ultimate reason for my purchase.
The bow I ended up with is a Martin MOAB. I just ordered it off ebay today the package includes a sight + peep, biscuit rest and quiver.
My question is what do I do next? I plan on taking it to Bass Pro to have the draw length set and get fitted for arrows buy the arrows (how many should I get?) a release, target and maybe a case.
So once I get all this together what do I have to do to tune the bow. I have read about paper tuning, tuning broad heads, tuning cams, I am sure I will have to set the sights as well but have no idea how to do any of this.
I have not held a bow since I took archery lessons with a recurve bow in cub scouts, so please help a new guy with the first steps to becoming an archer.
12-29-2008, 08:05 PM
I plan on taking it to Bass Pro to have the draw length set and get fitted for arrows buy the arrows (how many should I get?) a release, target and maybe a case.
Egads good man... you can do SO much better than the drones at most any B@ssPr*Sh*p. I spend a lot of time at the "Local Pro Shop" and though I'm not "on the payroll" I get see a lot of the f*ck-ups from B@ssPr* come through the door for "correction".
There is NOTHING they are going to do you cannot do yourself and probably better!
Carefully read all the information contained here:
Especially Page 5, 6, 7, & 8.
Now, go to You tube and search on "LeEarl"
( http://uk.youtube.com/LeEarl )
Even if you are never going to do so yourself watch
Martin Limb Switch Part 1 (http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=4b0O5HP-4eM&feature=channel_page)
Martin Limb Switch Part 2 (http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=Asuvr7lHokI&feature=channel_page)
Now carefully re-read all the information contained here:
paying particular attention to "Fine Tuning Your Compound Bow" (pp.
Now watch the video video on Walk Back Tuning (http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=1rMYJjjpHXg&feature=channel_page) is clear and concise.
go back and re-read that Martin Tech manual again....
Okay, now that you are armed with a little bit of knowledge, find the local Archery specialty shop and bring your bow there for a real set-up.
Expect to pay between $30 to $65.00 for a "full MoJo" and don't be afraid to ask if they mind if you watch and explain to you the basics of what they are doing... a reputable shop will not have any problem with this. (Just don't sound like a smart @ss by saying "I read on the Internet to do it a different way" ;-)
Okay B@ssPr* is not a bad place to get a target and a bow case.
A release is something you need to try before you buy, B@ssPro does not have a range and will not let you test fire your prospective release down the aisles ;-)
12-30-2008, 02:16 AM
What he/she said ^^^. Oh and welcome to the MOAB club!
http://bowtuningtips.com/ -Check also this site.In YouTube there are a lot of vids about bow tuning, i have subscribed to some and have some of them in my favourites, if you want i can give you a link to my page.About the arrows-for a start you need 3 or 4 good ones,i would say heavier too.I'm also a begginer in archery and think the heavier arrows are better for us.I agree with SandSquid-do yourself your bowtuning-it is more pleasant,you study better your bow and save money.
12-30-2008, 06:43 AM
I'll go a little different direction on the arrows. If you're mainly setting it up as a hunting rig then I'll go along with a heavier arrow, say 6 to 7 gr/# of draw weight. If you're going to shoot3D then I'd get an arrow that puts you closer to the min 5gr/#. Releases are mostly a personal preference kind of item but as you are looking at them don't neglect to play with a Scott if you're after a strap release. If you are after a thumb or back tension give Carter a try.
12-30-2008, 01:33 PM
The best thing you can do is join an archery club. You will be able to procure all sorts of free advice and help. Most members are more than willing to help you get setup and you'll be able to get more than one opinion about prospective purchases.
As a newbie I would expect that you would be terrified to do all those things you see on the SandSquid post. But if you are mechanically inclined they really arenít that complicated and you probably could do it. The martin manual is a real great resource and I also recommend you read it! Itís one of the best I have ever seen, very comprehensive. If you really want to pay someone to help you then I encourage you to get it. I would stop short of bashing all the bass pro shops. You may stumble into a competent tech but it probably isnít your best choice for technical help. Look for an archery pro-shop near you. They will be much better at explaining all the specifics and have a broader understanding. Example: releases you should try, Sizing arrows, determining your correct draw lengthÖ Theyíll be much better at pointing you in the right direction.
Quality arrows come in groups of 6. I would suggest you go with Carbon arrows. Heavier is not necessarily better. A lighter arrow flies faster and flatter making distance judging a little less critical. Arrows come in all different spines (flexability). Youíll need to pick one that matches your bow. If you want to do the research yourself here are some arrow selecting tools. I would as a new archer choose an arrow that is a little on the stiffer side since they are more forgiving. Point weight and arrow length affect the spine of the arrow be sure to take that into consideration.
Things to look for in a release. The trigger should have little or no travel. I personally prefer a double caliper trigger release. (Iíve seen single caliper mess with arrow flight) Your choices are so varied youíll be overwhelmed rather quickly. Back tension is a great tool for improving your accuracy and as you become more experienced youíll probably want to try one. To start off with though, triggers are much more intuitive for the beginner to use.
Good luck and feel free to keep asking questions.;)
12-30-2008, 03:58 PM
As a newbie I would expect that you would be terrified to do all those things you see on the SandSquid post. But if you are mechanically inclined they really arenít that complicated and you probably could do it.
I didn't say for him TO do all those things, just read about them and watch them and re-read and re-watch.. There is a huge difference between "understanding" and "doing"...
Either way, he will be able to recognize if someone is attempting to give him a "Tobacco Enema".
12-30-2008, 09:56 PM
Nearly wet my pants!
It is great stuff both the initial post and the reply.
Thanks for all the replies. There is enough here to keep me busy while I am chomping at the bit waiting for my bow to arrive.
I will look for a dedicated archery store to give my business to. It only makes sense that the people who make archery their business are going to be more useful to me than the part time help at the everything outdoors type stores.
I intend to do the work that can reasonably be performed by me, myself. Everything I have done I did for the first time at some point :) but I have found understanding what needs done makes things run a lot smoother.
Thanks again for the help, I am sure I will have more questions once I get started.
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