Tuning in General

[JudBow]

Hello All,

I purchased my first bow (08 Moab) back in August and have been enjoying shooting it! I recently found some time to start seriously sighting it in and tuning it.

I got it pretty well dialed in at 20 and 30 yds. But when I moved to 40, I could see the arrow fishtailing down the range. (Looked like a trout swimming away which I witness on a regular basis!) Relatively good group though.

Today, I took it to the local indoor range with a 25 yd max. I couldn't tell if it was fishtailing at that distance. But they allowed me to use paper to tune it. Very interesting, the shaft hole was an inch to the left of the fletching hole. In order to get the hole and fletching to line up, I had to move the rest as far left as possible. The rest isn't even close to the middle of the rubber and the sight is almost maxed to the left also.

Questions:
1. Is this OK?
2. Is there a point where I went too far left and if I move it back to the right I can find another sweet spot?
3. Could this be my grip. My instructor (friend) says my grip looks good and light. I try to keep fingers of the bow, just the pressure of the draw against my palm.

Thanks in advance for all advice!

Jud

08 Moab 29' 65#
Vapor Trail Drop Away Rest
GT 375 gr arrows

[SandSquid]

I would re-set it back to original center-shot then start doing a walk-back or "French" tuning. Also I find it helpful that if all you can do due to space limitations is paper tune, to do so at 5, 10, & 15 feet, instead of just one distance.



Also see the manual below with sections on tuning and super-tuning:
http://martinarchery.com/manuals/2007_Martin_Bow_Manual.pdf

[flytier17]

Well, firstly, I almost never papertune. heres what I do...

First, I use a calculator to determine the exact spine and length of the arrow before I begin. I buy and cut my shafts accordingly. Then, I set my bow up, visualy establishing centershot and squareness. I put the rest as low as possible for the fletched to clear the arrow shelf, and I skuare the loop from that visually. Then I break my prostrings in with 50 shots with a light arrow. Then, I set my peep and silencers. Next, I eradicate cam lean and time the tp cam to touch a hair before the bottom one. I then sight in for 20yds and 30yds. Then, I do a centershot tuning. I put a dot about 1" wide @ 30 yds, ans shoot 1 arrow 3 times to confirm my sight-in @ both 20 and 30. I then use a level to draw a perfectly vertical line 2 feet down from the dot. I then shoot 1 arrow @ 30yds using my 20yd pin. 3 times. (I don't shoot groups as it wrecks arrows fast) I compare the holes to the vertical line; discarding flyers or bad shots. I move my rest in 1/32" increments in the direction of the line from the group. When the arrows hit the line, my centershot is good. I then do a bareshaft tuning. This is to get the exact arrow spine. If they impact left or right; I cut the arrows down bt by bit, or lower the poundage bit by bit to get the spine just right. The centershot should not be moved. If the bareshafts impact high or low of the fletched shafts, I move the loop up or down to get them to impact with the fletched shafts. I do my bareshaft @ 20 yds at first, and 30 later to tweak it. All my bows are dual cammed; so I do not creep tune, and I keep the tillers even. I do a papertune after all this, justfor fun mostly. Barshafts and fletched shafts. I have yet to have a papertune that is off by more than 1/4" in any direction after the other tuning. I do all my tuning indoors to eliminate as many variables as I can, and I also clean my contact lenses and am well rested before I tune. I practice diligently every day for a week before as well. This is the most I can do to ensure the best possible tune.

[JudBow]

SS and Flytier,

Thanks for the advice. I think I will start over.

Flytier, are the calculations available somewhere for arrow length? I have been googling ( is that a verb? ) for a while, but only found software to buy and charts.

Thanks again!

[flytier17]

"On Taget 2" is very popular, as well as "Archers Advantage", and "TAPs" (The Archery Program).

I use OT2. I do not own it, I just get my friend to run #'s for me.