View Full Version : tiller question on 08 bengal

01-14-2009, 05:05 PM
can anyone tell me the best way to set the tiller adjustment on my bengal?

To decrease some draw weight i turned the limb bolts out 2 full turns. Afterwards i thought it would be a good idea to check the tiller adjustment. The bottom measurement was slightly over 1/8" longer than the top measurement. To componsate i turned the lower limb bolt in about 3/4 of a turn to get equal tiller measurement (top and bottom) . Now the gap (at the limb bolt end, where limb meets riser) is aprox. 1/16" on the lower limb and about 3/16" on the top limb.

Would it be best to have limb bolts turned out(or in) exactly even turns, or would the actual tiller measurement of "0" be the best approach. The manual says experiment , but was hoping someone had some real-life experience in making this adjustment and be able to pass that along.
Thanks in advance for the help guys.

01-15-2009, 12:30 PM
anyone want to take a shot at my previous question on tiller adjustment from a couple days ago. I said thanks! :confused:

01-15-2009, 12:49 PM
Equal terns is not the concern. Limbs can have slight variations in the manufacturing so what is important is that the tiller be consistent.

You are on the right track just tweak the limb turns till top and bottom are equal.

01-15-2009, 01:00 PM
With a solocam bow, I would advise creep tuning to determine your tiller position.

01-15-2009, 01:26 PM
anyone want to take a shot at my previous question on tiller adjustment from a couple days ago. I said thanks! :confused:

To start with I would bottom out the limb bolts then back each out an = 1/2 turn. Then if you have a single cam bow take the tiller measurment from a strait edge running from A to A to the inside of either limb where it meets the limb pocket. Adjust limbolts as needed till you get even tiller...you may be there already...start shooting at even tiller (it will probably hold fine at this point). If not adjust tiller till the bow holds steady as can be for you. It may be a little on the minus side on the bottom or on the plus side on the bottom. I personally would see where it held somewhere between 1/8" plus or minus from even tiller and go with what measurement held best. I personally would not deviate much from these measurements. Notice I said on a single cammed bow...you cannot measure tiller at the string on a single cammed bow. Measure with a strait edge running from Axle to Axle

01-15-2009, 01:37 PM
excellent point, forgot about the tiller to the center of the axles on a single cam bow. I'm glad you caught that.

01-15-2009, 08:20 PM
thanks scepterman30x for the comment about NOT measuring from the pocket to the string! I will run a straightedge from axle to axle as you pointed out and i bet i'll get a totally differant measurement. That would make sense, since the cam and the idler are usually two differant sizes. I will re-measure. :D

Flytier....you lost me on the creep tuning...don't know what that is, sorry. Could you elaborate? Just bonk me over the head . :confused: THanks

01-16-2009, 12:58 PM
Here is a good introduction article by Spot-Hogg: http://www.spot-hogg.com/newsletter10.shtml

01-16-2009, 01:05 PM
Basically it amounts to shooting arrows drawn short and long of the wall, and making them impact the same. Creep tuning with a Dual Cam is done by synching the cams differently, and rotating them. With a Solocam, you have to do it by tiller adjustment.

I personally really like creep tuning my bows. I find them to be a lot more forgiving with flinching and creeping due to fatigue. It does not necessarily enhance the accuracy of the bow, but it does make a messed-up shot a lot more like a good shot. I found that if I go to shoot 2 rounds i one evening at the spots league, I usually start getting a little tired after about 100 arrows, and that makes me make little mistakes, particularily creeping forward into the power stroke, or punching the trigger which makes me pull back into the wall to hard as an instinctive reaction. Creep tuning has directly affected how much more forgiving my bow is to these types of errors. Its no excuse for poor form, I know that, but it does help the scores out a bit.

01-16-2009, 02:22 PM
thanks for the reference, they do have some good information there.

Just fyi...after measuring tiller to a straightedge rather that to the string, it turns out (no pun intended)that 2 turns out (from bottomed out) is very close to "o" tiller in my case. I drew it back several times with very little movement of sight pin to target as i completed the draw cycle. Don't know if it is any more accurate yet.....i am happy with it for now. Only more time will tell. And i do want to try the "creep tuning " thang, but still need to research the techniqe more. Thanks for everyones advice:p