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View Full Version : Off with nitrous-x ??



Broadhead
04-01-2009, 05:09 AM
Hey guys, I currently shoot a 2005 shadowcat, 70# elite limbs (drawing 64#), nitrous-x cams, 27" draw, drop zone rest, trophy ridge v-drive sight. This setup has used me very well in the past although it is "jumpy".

Lately I have found this bow a bit of a handfull, wanting to pull me off the wall (no creeping with this bow), lot of hand shock and noise. This is a 3-D setup so these isues haven't been a problem in the past.

Now the question. Is there a different cam system that would make my bow a little user-friendly; smoother draw, more valley, less shock, etc...without sacrificing a lot of speed. THNX

flytier17
04-01-2009, 09:28 AM
For a speed cam, the NOS cam is relatively smooth. A furious would be smoother though, and have much more valley. It will be slower though.

Alec

HungarianHammer
04-01-2009, 06:33 PM
are the cams timed properly...if it didnt do it before maby this is the problem?

Broadhead
04-02-2009, 09:22 AM
I am a long ways from a pro, just a guy who loves to shoot 3-D and hunt. My first bow for hunting was ,and still is, a 2001 Jaguar Mag fuzion cam. LOVE IT; smooth,quiet, can shoot it all day. This bow was user friendly right out of the box.

I bought the shadowcat as a tournement bow, faster/flater. As far as setting it up goes, I took it from the box added a sight and rest and started shooting. What are some of your routine setup practices for a new bow. This bow was always right from day one, jumpy, loud and lots of shock. Everyone notices it. I do well scorewise but thought I had to make sacrifices to get speed and flat trajectry.

What can I do for a check list to make sure I am getting the best bang for my buck before I make a drastic move . This forum seems to have a lot of knowledgable guys sharing info. A great place to take advantage of the technology I already own, but don't understand. THANX

davydtune
04-02-2009, 11:18 AM
Something is not quite right. That bow with Nitrous cams should be velvet at the shot. First I'd make sure the cams are in time. Draw the bow back slowly and look or have someone look at both top and bottom cams at the stop (where the flat spot on the draw modules hits the cables at full draw). The top and bottom need hit at the exact same time. If one is hitting the cable before the other then you need to twist up the cable that connects to that cam. I'd also check and see how close to spec the bow is (brace height and ATA) There could be a chance that you need to twist the cables and/or sting some to get it to spec. A good archery shop can do all this for you in no time.:D

SandSquid
04-02-2009, 12:30 PM
I bought the ShadowCat as a tournament bow, faster/flatter.

It is that indeed!


What are some of your routine setup practices for a new bow.

With the Nitrous-X cams you want to ensure that the flat "stops" on the cam modules all rotate contact the strings at the same time (top and bottom sets).
This is referred to as "timing the cams", if they are out of time you will feel a softer (false) first wall then a harder second wall.

Have someone else draw the bow while your watch the cams rotate and ensure the flats of the top and bottom cams hit the control strings at the same time.

You will add or remove twists in your control cables to get them to do so. Being Dyslexic, I always get confused as to which set of strings advance or retard which cam, so hopefully someone else will chime in on that.

You also need to ensure the cam is not over or under rotated. Again hopefully someone will help there, I'd get it wrong and confuse you.


This bow was always right from day one, jumpy, loud and lots of shock. Everyone notices it.

That is very wrong... Mrs. Squid has a 2006 ShadowCat w/ nitrous-X Cams and it is silent and almost dead in her hand on the shot.
LimbSavers will help a bit but they will not correct a bigger problem.

davydtune
04-02-2009, 12:38 PM
It is that indeed!



With the Nitrous-X cams you want to ensure that the flat "stops" on the cam modules all rotate contact the strings at the same time (top and bottom sets).
This is referred to as "timing the cams", if they are out of time you will feel a softer (false) first wall then a harder second wall.

Have someone else draw the bow while your watch the cams rotate and ensure the flats of the top and bottom cams hit the control strings at the same time.

You will add or remove twists in your control cables to get them to do so. Being Dyslexic, I always get confused as to which set of strings advance or retard which cam, so hopefully someone else will chime in on that.

You also need to ensure the cam is not over or under rotated. Again hopefully someone will help there, I'd get it wrong and confuse you.



That is very wrong... Mrs. Squid has a 2006 ShadowCat w/ nitrous-X Cams and it is silent and almost dead in her hand on the shot.
LimbSavers will help a bit but they will not correct a bigger problem.


Something is not quite right. That bow with Nitrous cams should be velvet at the shot. First I'd make sure the cams are in time. Draw the bow back slowly and look or have someone look at both top and bottom cams at the stop (where the flat spot on the draw modules hits the cables at full draw). The top and bottom need hit at the exact same time. If one is hitting the cable before the other then you need to twist up the cable that connects to that cam. I'd also check and see how close to spec the bow is (brace height and ATA) There could be a chance that you need to twist the cables and/or sting some to get it to spec. A good archery shop can do all this for you in no time.:D

Here ya go :D

davydtune
04-02-2009, 12:58 PM
Info here on timing. Page 12 for Nitrous

http://www.martinarchery.com/manuals/2006_BowManual.pdf

Broadhead
04-02-2009, 08:10 PM
Thanks fellas, I will be shooting Atlantics on Sunday then I plan on going back to basics following your suggestions on timing etc. Glad I have more bow than I am currently using. Good news!!
Will get back and let you know how I make out (and get more tips). Appriciate the helpful tips and thank you.

HungarianHammer
04-02-2009, 08:15 PM
Good luck and happing shooting ;)

flytier17
04-03-2009, 09:01 AM
Broadhead, I sent you a private message.

Good luck with the shoot!

Alec

b0w_bender
04-04-2009, 11:26 AM
Any bow shooting the X-system for me has been much more forgiving and user friendly, definitely smooth and quiet.

You had also said it makes a lot of noise, check to make sure the cam srews are tight. It they are at all loose then it will make the most awful sound. Caution though the modules are fragil and can break if you over tighten them.

The good news is once you have the the cams tuned you'll get even better performance. Also note when you adjust your cam tuning that can also affect the draw length so you may want to check that before you start.

Good luck at the shoot.

flytier17
04-04-2009, 02:04 PM
Any bow shooting the X-system for me has been much more forgiving and user friendly, definitely smooth and quiet.

You had also said it makes a lot of noise, check to make sure the cam srews are tight. It they are at all loose then it will make the most awful sound. Caution though the modules are fragil and can break if you over tighten them.

The good news is once you have the the cams tuned you'll get even better performance. Also note when you adjust your cam tuning that can also affect the draw length so you may want to check that before you start.

Good luck at the shoot.

Adding the "X" system to a bow will in no way change the draw cycle dynamics. it will not make the bow inherently smoother. As for quieter; well, the 2 cables that touch will vibrate. It may in fact have a bit more buzz than a cable slide.

All the "X" system does is allow for the limbs to be aligned squarely, with no sideways force. In addition, it becomes easy to time and rotate the cables without a press. It also makes the sideways nock travel eliminated; persuant to the centralizing of the torque.

Alec

bfisher
04-04-2009, 05:38 PM
Adding the "X" system to a bow will in no way change the draw cycle dynamics. it will not make the bow inherently smoother. As for quieter; well, the 2 cables that touch will vibrate. It may in fact have a bit more buzz than a cable slide.

All the "X" system does is allow for the limbs to be aligned squarely, with no sideways force. In addition, it becomes easy to time and rotate the cables without a press. It also makes the sideways nock travel eliminated; persuant to the centralizing of the torque.

Alec

Gee, is that all? That's a lot.

flytier17
04-05-2009, 10:25 AM
OK, but compared to having the ability to change the dynamics of the draw cycle, it doesn't seem as much.

Trying to portray honestly the capeabilities of the "X" system, without giving it too much hype. That way, there won't be any false hopes and dissapointments.

All said and done, I think the "X" system is the greatest cam system designed for a dual cam. All my bows have them, and it is as good on every one.


Mr. Barry; if you have thought by my seemingly less than enthusiastic tone of portrayel of information of the "X" system you have come to conclude that I have fallen out of favor with it, than I am sorry to say that I have to dissapoint your expectations.

Whats more is that I will buy your "B" cams with Xmods or X Minimods as soon as you are OK with parting with them. Time for the Fury system on my Scepter to GO!

Alec

bfisher
04-05-2009, 08:35 PM
No Alec, I know you like the X cams. I was making with a little humor. I thought you knew me better than that.