View Full Version : Need Some Help on Decision
04-14-2009, 06:44 PM
I have recently go a person trying to sell me some arrows for 50.00$ They are GoldTip Expedition 3555 arrows. Right now I am shooting 70 pounds. I have been thinking of droppin the weight on my bow to 58 to 61#. I have a 29 to a 29.5 draw length. I shoot a 27 in arrow. So goldtip size chart says i can shoot the 3555 arrow on 58 to 60some. Would I lose all that much speed if i lowered my bow to 58 to 64 with the 3555(500) from the 5575(400) at 70 pounds??Im more accurate with less draw weight even though i weigh 235 pounds and am about 6 foot tall?:confused: I can hold the 70 but cant hit consistint as on lower poundage.What would you do??:confused:
04-14-2009, 07:05 PM
I would rather kill an animal with a slow arrow, than miss it with a fast one:D otherwords, If you shoot youre bow better at a lower poundage (as most of us do) then I would give it a shot. I would think that going from a 55/75 down to a 35/55 would almost be a push on speed because of the lower mass weight of youre arrow. Kenny
My MOAB is 60# and i've lowered to about 51-this way i feel much better and shoot easier and more accurate. I will increase the poundage with the practice, but as a new archer i don't feel good with the heavier.You can now lower your bow and after some time you can return to the 70# (and you won't lose so much speed).
04-15-2009, 09:54 AM
Answering one question, the 3555 are way underspined for your setup unless you drop the bow weight to about 50#, which I don't see happening.
You could drop the weight that much but not as a long term project.
And forget about GT's charts. They haven't kept up with modern cam technology. You're probably pretty lucky to get 400's (5575) to work at 70#.
If you are after more speed and wish to stay with GT arrows then I'd look at the Ultralite 400. A 500 spine is just too weak. Whatever you choose it should be something around a 400 spine.
I would like to commend you on your choice to lower the draw weight. At least you have the common sense to realize what many do not and that is that you can shoot more accurately at a lower weight. If you continue this trend your shoulders will surely thank youy 20 years from now. I learned the hard way.
04-15-2009, 10:04 AM
Thanks Bfisher i have made my decision. I am going to lower the draw weight and shoot the 5575 arrow with either 85 or 100 grain slicktricks to be safe.
As long as i can get about 240 to 250 out of them im satisfied.:D
I have one more question. What do you think would shoot better with the 5575 arrows the 100 grain or 85 grain slick tricks??:confused:
I am buying my hunting arrows and broadheads stuff before hand.
04-15-2009, 01:27 PM
Indipendet from the arrow question i would prefer the heavier weight. It has a positive effect on arrow stability and also on other factors that may be important for bowhunt.
04-15-2009, 01:39 PM
Id have to agree with montalaar, shooting a heavier poundage produces better arrow flight, along with the needed kinetic energy for most animals
04-15-2009, 01:56 PM
Oh, i am sorry. I talked about boradhead weight.
I am sure that 60lbs is enough poundage for every animal you will be able to hunt in the US.
04-15-2009, 02:46 PM
I just picked up some goldtip expedition hunters 5575 arrows. I hade blazer veins put on them. 2 red 1 white.
I bare shaft tuned my bow and found out that the 5575s are not good for high pounds in my bow. I found that with 64 pounds they fley great. I put in a arrow with veins and shot about a half inch under my bare shaft.(tuned all the way past 30 yards.):D
Thants with 100 grain feild points. I'll have to wait for the broadheads. I'll get them next week to test. I am thinking of slicktricks. Has anyone had experience with these broadheads and blazer veins.
Ive heard good things about them. I'll find out when i get them.:rolleyes:
04-15-2009, 03:00 PM
I know what you meant Simon. Draw weight not being the question asked you had to mean something about the arrows.
JB, you should be able to shoot either tip weight. The 100 would be my recommendation and should work. Frankly I'd try both tips but in field points and see how they tune. Shoot whichever one groups the best.
There is only 15 grains difference which doesn't mean much for penetration in animals. Don't get caught up in this kinetic energy crap. Shooting 60# or so and the arrow you are right now will take down 90% of the animals walking this planet, much less any deer in North America---and Elk and moose arein the deer family.
The whole point is to be able to shoot more accurately and place your shots so. Believe me, if more people had their heads screwed on right and left their testosterone at home when they pick bows there would be a lot less missed or wounded animals and a lot less shoulder problems as they get older. What has led people down the wrong road pertaining to this has been the development of high letoff. It matters very little what the letoff is on a bow. Whatever the draw weight the shooter still has to roll the cams over. The higher the weight the sharper the drop-off to the valley. This is the reason a lot of guys have need of containment rests these days. They draw too much weight and can't control the draw cycle of the bow, the result being they pop the arrow off a conventional rest. Testosterone.
You just keep thinking the way you are and you'll do just fine.
One other thing. I'm fairly intimate with Gold Tip arrows as I spent a few years on their advisory staff. If considering the XT or Expedition at 29" or more just knock 10# off the rating---meaning instead of 5575 think about 5065.
04-15-2009, 03:12 PM
I know what you mean about the goldtip chart. They have no cam columns like most arrow companys do. Thanks again for the advice;)
04-16-2009, 05:29 PM
JB, now you found out for yourself what I have said for a couple years now. The GT 5575, being a 400 spine, is only good to about 65# at 29" or a bit longer. Frankly, at 29-30", I'd pick the 7595 (340 spine) for anything above 63#. It allows to add a couple pounds to optimize their flight.
Have you read anywhere that with carbon arrows if you err then do it with a stiffer arrow? This is always the way I think. That's why I don't worry about a chart showing cam styles. I just consider all cam styles as hard cams and pick arrows accordingly. Charts are just guidelines anyway.
Oh, you asked about Slick Tricks. IMO they are a very well contructed head. One of my main concerns is how the blades are retained in the ferrule. The three I consider the best are Slick Tricks, InnerLoc, and Muzzy in that order. I know you've heard that they "fly just like my field points". That can be said for almost any broadhead if the bow/arrow combination is tuned properly. If the tune is not close then no broadhead will fly like field points.
04-16-2009, 06:28 PM
I will have to agree about the Gold Tips. I'm shooting 69lbs and 5575's do great with field tips but horrible with broadheads moved up to 7595's broadheads hit with fieldtips.
04-16-2009, 08:01 PM
I found a couple of muzzies in my bow box. I found a 75g 3 blade, a 100g 4 blade and a 100g 3 blade.
I shot all 3 broadheads with the gt arrows and i found that the 75g flew great. But, the other two flew pretty good but not as good as the 75g did.
They hit exacly the same as the feild points did. the 75 flew a hair high. But im set with 100g feild points.
Im going to shoot some slick tricks to see which fits me.
Another thing iv found out is when i bare shaft tune my arrow they seem to do better than paper tuning does. Wonder why.:confused:
I was wonting to see how everyone else bare shaft tunes. Cause i havent done it but a couple of times. All i do is shoot the arrow at about 10 yards first and work my way past 30. When i see my shaft planing all i did was lower the poundage untill i was shooting straight.
When i was shooting straight, I was at 64 pounds. I may go with less than that. Cause my accurasy has improved a great amount. I am going to work on my yardage judgin now.
Id rather practice yardage judgment than trying to make an mpro2 cam bow shoot 280 fps.;)
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