View Full Version : Muzzy X-Celerater Rest
Has anybody installed one of these on a 2009 Martin MOAB???
It was supposed to be a five minute installation, but have been at it now for two days...Cannot get it to shoot a bare shaft at ten yards, without the nock end being about 4-6" left of point impact..
Bow draw weight 42# (35/50) Draw length set at F4 (which I believe to be 28")
Arrows are Gold Tip XT Hunters 28" 3555's...flield points 100 grains..
Anybody got any ideas??
Thanks for your time!!!
I have also checked the idler lean and corrected that.
Next was ro open the nocks a bit as they were rather tight..
Have move the rest in and out to no change..
This is frustrating, as I have been in Archery since 1951, and have never had a problem that I couldn't make go away as far as fine tuning was concerned..
My motto: Aim small, miss small!!
08-25-2009, 10:59 AM
Nock left usually means an arrow that is not stiff enough. I don't believe this to be the case. I often have this situation when the arrow is too stiff.
Let's get to some basics. You have the idler lean taken care of. Where is the rest set for centershot? Your rest should end up about 7/8" from the sight window for starters. Mine is at 15/16".
Nock fit could be a problem and I do not recommend spreading the nocks. It's better in the long run to just put a smaller serving size on the string. If the bow is still at the shop this shouldn't be much of a problem.
Try playing with different weight points on the shaft and playing with the limb bolts. Increasing or decreasing the draw weight. I usually start out real close and work my way back making adjustments as necessary. By close I mean 6'. I quit when I've reached 30-35 yards. I work with the limb bolts mostly and save adjusting the rest for really fine tuning. Normally I don't have to move the rest more than 1/16" when I'm out around 30 yards.
If you don't yet have a copy then download one of the Easton tuning guide. It should help a lot, but if you follow it and make an adjustment and the shots get worse then don't be afraid to go in the opposite direction. You should be able to find it on Hunter's Friend or www.bowjackson.com. Might be on the Easton website, too.
Are you sure you're not torquing the bow. These reflexed risers can make it real tough to bare shaft so be aware of this and shoot a really loose, relaxed grip.. Don't be afraid to try a stiffer shaft to see if that helps.
I have tried the Gold Tip XT Hunters in 55/75..
I have tried in and out with the rest, which at present time is at 7/8" from the softpad on the riser..
I have tried both 100 and 125 grains on both the bare shafts..
I shoot with an open hand, and hope that I'm not torqueing the bow handle..
I use a Tru-Fire Caliper release, because when I tried my Carter Evolution the distance widened from tip impact to the nock end..
This has become an obsession now to get it to shoot a bare shaft!!
At one time when I shot competition, you could take your pick of any arrow in the quiver, and defletch it and I could put the bare shaft in the bullseye and sometimes in the x-ring from 20 yards..
At 10 feet the bare shaft will be straight, and at 10 yards it has the "kick" to the left with the nock end...........
Thanks so far with what help you have given....
I could maybe send some pics you way via email if you wish..I use Picasa for all my emails so they don't take up so much space..
08-25-2009, 02:04 PM
It certainly sounds like you're not a novice at this. Neither am I, but sometimes we just run into a rough one like this. I'll have to do some thinking.
I can say that I have a 2008 FireCat and a 2009 Moab. I have worked religiously with the FireCat and shoot a bare shaft out to 30 years like it's attached to a laser. At 40 yards it shows a little nock low, but sometimes it's time to stop tinkering as one of my friends keep saying. Yeah, right.
The Moab on the other hand is just downright stubborn. I do need to work with it more, but there's no way it's going to bare shaft the same arrows at the same poundage. I mean, so far it's not even close.
Just for info are you using a loop or shooting off the string?
I have been shooting a loop for about 10 years...Before that a nockset with a rubber bumper under the nock..
Shot fingers for many years, and used to put five cedar arrows in the 10" bull at 80 yards...Probably can't do that anymore either..HeeHee
And this year on the 16th of May got my gobbler with this bow and a Vapor Trail limb driver rest that I modified to use the bottom limb instead of the top limb..
Like I said it has now become an obsession to make it work!!
Today I removed the rest and reinstalled it for the third time reading each instruction on the sheet twice before attemping it..Thought maybe I had missed something along the way...No such thing..
Will keep trying to see what might work..
Measurements I have right now: from the CCS (cable containment system) is 6 and 1/8 inches...That is to the cable clamp center on the down cable clamp...Total measurement for the turnbuckle sleeve and threaded rod is: 3 3/8 inches..
Center shot measurement is: 7/8 inch from V alignment to the softpad on the riser...At 10 yards ir shoots a Blazer fletched arrow, (3555) right down the pipe..
Practice blade at 100 grain...
So where do we go from here??
Thanking so much in advance, I remain,
08-26-2009, 06:38 PM
Well, I'll tell ya. I took my Moab out last night and spent some serious time trying to get to bare shaft. Ain't happening. I tried 4 different shaft spines; .560, 500, 400, and 300 in that order. All the arrows have glue-in target points and are 27" long.
I started by eye-balling centershot very carefully just like I always do. I did have to adjust rest height to compensate for the different diameter arrows. Shot the first three and they entered the bag nock high and hard left, meaning they planed to the right. Adjusting the rest up or down did not help.
I always adjust the vertical plane before the horizontal so I didn't try adjusting for left and right planing. The one shaft that did better was the 300 spined arrow, a GT 22Pro Series. I got it shooting level, but couldn't get out the planing. It still entered nock left.
By that time it was getting dark and I figured to just shoot the bow a little while a friend watched the arrow flight. Shot 3 shots to adjust the sight for 20 yards. The next two 3 shot groups resulted in two broken nocks.
So you figure this out. It stumps me. This is a bow set at 26.5" draw and 45#. Ain't no way a 300 spine should work, but I had them do that before. I do have to say that I did fart around with the draw stop and got the bow so it feels a lot better to me.
Next time I get a cahnce I'll work with it more, adjusting the poundage and see what happens. But the results so far defy the rules as most people know them. An arrow that planes right would show a nock left tear in paper. By the book this means the shaft is underspined. I can assure you that every one of these shafts are overspined.
Thanks for your help, because now I know that something is not in the ordinary function...I was beginning to think my mind was slipping...I had already became a pest at Muzzy, before coming here..
I sent you an email with a picture in it, if you care to respond...
In setting you're draw stop on the MOAB, where did you set it in regard to your draw length??..I have mine set right at the bottom of the valley, according to my weight scale..Correct me if I'm wrong, because I've never had a bow before with a draw stop!!
Ordered some practice blades from Muzzy this morning and plan on setting the bow up with fletched arrows outdoors and let it go at that..If that don't work, back on goes the Limbdriver rest..
Thanks for all your help!!!!!!!!
k9pe still :confused:
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