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flintforever
10-30-2009, 05:04 PM
I had a buddie lend me his above jig with a straight clamp:I did read alot on 2" blazer on carbons arrows.I tried a few to see how much off set i can get on the 400 carbons shafts.I did set it up with the front cam about or close to 1/16 to the right @ the rear cam a hairline to the left.I did find by moving the bottom cam to the left I did get the vane to sit center on the shaft.I did try a few with broadheads and can say the shaft did not nose dive at the 28 yard mark.The shaft flew excellent out to 30 yards with out any prolems.
I then tried a few 4" with the same set up on the straight clamp man what a great flying shaft,I can't tell how much off set I pick up but the 4" vanes you can see the twist in the plastic vanes and the arrow shoot outstanding.
I am heading up state on Sunday and I am going to try the 4" with broadheads out to 30 yards.I am shooting a 20007 martin saber at 53 lbs at 27" draw.I find one pin will get me out ot 30 yards with out any problems.

Teweede09
12-26-2009, 06:59 AM
Thats not what I meant. In the aluminum arrows. Why do I chose one over the other.Do I match it to the bow, How do I decide different weight in arrows. I know you just cant go buy a 31" arrow and know that its right for your bow. HOW do you decide which one is right for your particular situation????????

alex
12-26-2009, 09:38 AM
Thats not what I meant. In the aluminum arrows. Why do I chose one over the other.Do I match it to the bow, How do I decide different weight in arrows. I know you just cant go buy a 31" arrow and know that its right for your bow. HOW do you decide which one is right for your particular situation????????

:confused: ... I don't know what you've meant, but if you want to know what arrow will fit your bow you must keep in mind only two things - your bow's draw weight and draw lenght and the first is more important. For each pound of your bow's weight there must be at least 5 grains of the arrows weight - if the bow is 70# the arrow should be 350 gr. or more. Also very important is the spine of the arrow - the different arrow makers mark their arrows differently and you must check their charts to choose a proper arrow for your bow - for example Gold Tip Vapor 300 is for 70-90# bows and if you shoot a 60# bow you must take one with spine 400 or even 500. The lenght of the arrows is less complicated - at full draw the tip of the arrow should be about an inch in front of the rest. The arrows can be cut either in the bow shop or by you at home if you have the proper tool. Hope this is what you've asked about, if not - sorry for the misunderstanding :)

golfisserious
12-26-2009, 09:57 PM
I am right handed so I went with right hand fletch... i.e. front is farther right than back left corner...

a buddy of mine that hunts traditional got me on to this...I love it... I am only a fall/winter archer and it gets my arrows touching each other at 30 yds...

better yet... I tried feathers for a while... if it wasn't for the fact that I keep ripping off/cutting the fletchings, I would shoot feathers all the time, but they are not cheap...

I can tell you this... they (real feathers) stabilize an arrow much faster than rubber/synthetic vanes.

this is the only reason I order my arrows cut to size, and blank... I am about to start cutting my own... after cabelas left me with about 10 rough edges out of 12 on some cheap alluminums I bought as back ups...whatever happened to??? if you are going to do a job, do it right.