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PLASTIC PAUL
05-27-2006, 09:19 PM
Who thinks about how they draw the bow back?? Come On be honest, show me a raise of hands....
If you don't you're giving up points big time or blowing a shot at the animal you have worked for all season.
How you draw is just as important as any other part of the shot. I am sure you just figure you missed when one goes left or right on you. True you did miss but do you know why. I am willing to wager that if you were holding on the intended destination for the arrow and finished the shot and it still went astray it actually happened before you ever settled on the target.
How you draw back will omitt or include certain muscles in the shot sequence. The bast way to get the right muscles going is to use them from the beginning of the shot. I mean the very beginning, when you are setting up to draw back.
The muscles we want are all in the torso. They include the abbs and the upper back muscles. Now the question becomes how do we get those muscles involved? Let's look at this in very simple terms.
When you fling a rubber band which way does it go in terms of the direction it was stretched? They usually travel in a straight line, at least until it lands on the intended target. So why would we not expect the same from our bow. The string will travel in a straight line from where it was held at full draw to it's place of rest.
With that in mind why would we draw back in any other direstion other than directly in-line with the target. I see so many people draw back to the side and then settle into their anchor.
This does many things and none of them are good. The least of the issues you just created is the useless motion you put in your draw cycle. A more critical issue is the torque you put in your bow hand when you moved the string into your face to find your normal anchor. Another problem is the potential for increased contact between your face and the string.
The really big problem is....there is a very good chance you have the wrong muscles involved in the shot. Or, if you got lucky enough to still be using the right muscles they are pulling in the wrong direction. Because you pulled back to the side that is the direction your body wants to keep pulling on the follow through.
I would suggest that you pull back straight to your anchor. Doing this will improve your chances of having everything going in the right direction. Ideally your arm should drop back in the exact opposite direction of the intnded target.
If we were to watch your shot from behind your arm should drop back directly in line with the target. It should not drop to either side at any point. A good mental image is to picture pulling straight through the shot.
As I have explained this starts at the very beginning of the draw cycle. At the very beginning when you are looking down range "reach" toward the target with your drawing shoulder. When you are ready to draw the bow simply turn that shoulder away from the target and keep your rerlease hand coming straight back to your anchor. This is more easily accomplished by drawing with your elbow high. You will want the elbow to be high when you anchor, why not start with it there.
I have a good friend I coach who insists on drawing back and then he makes two additional moves. He brings his release into his face and raises his elbow after he draws the bow. I was pestering him pretty bad the other evening during practice but by the end of the evening he was shooting 5 arrow groups that were under 2" at 25yds. If it hadn't been for him using Uni-Bushings it would have been a very expensive evening.
I hope this will help some of you get rid of your left and right misses. There is no secret to shooting great scores. It is a simple matter of following a basic, sound shot sequence and repeating it. The little things mean so much and are so often over looked.

Good Luck, Paul

Craig
05-28-2006, 02:47 AM
I want what you've been drinking!

Very good information............and very technical!

So, can you help me on my question that no one else has been able to up to now! No one has posted in response? I've noticed you shoot on your cables.

What's the best material for strings for Martin Compounds, and how many strands for a Martin Ocelot?

I wish if one day I'll be able to shoot half as good as the members on here! I've not shot in 15 year's, and last time I did was recurve shooting (although to quite a high standard!) I've just purcashed said compound and need plenty of help!!!!! I'm pretty alright at archery, but new to compound shooting, Help??????????????????????????? Especially being from the UK!

PLASTIC PAUL
05-28-2006, 03:59 AM
Thanks for the kind words. I can't believe nobody wanted to help you out. Any top quality string material will work well. I am using 452X for my strings and cables. For the main string I recomend 24 strands with a .021 center serving material, with a tag run underneath. This will fit very well with most better nocks. For your cables, go with 20 starnds if you are using two cables and 12-20 if you are using 4 cables.

I hope that helps, Paul

cb671
05-28-2006, 09:41 AM
Good Info Paul!!!!

Craig
05-28-2006, 10:08 AM
Cheers Paul, I've had a look for the 452X (as i've never heard of it before), and it is available here in the UK which is great (although nearly 40 a spool!).

Next question! Can you offer any assistance on which cable chart I should be using as I need to know the lengths for the main shooting string and split cables?

Lastly, looking at the split cables they look to be be of un-equal length where they split to the axle's. Is this true or just an illusion due to the angle from the Cam module being offset from centre?

Thanks again, and thanks for the previous info it's much appreciated.

I phoned up one of the recommended Martin dealers in the UK the other day, and they didn't want to know about supplying me with new cables, they where very unhelpful. Hence the questions............!

PLASTIC PAUL
05-28-2006, 12:00 PM
It is worth every penny or pound in your case....How much string building experience do you have ? There are a couple of ways to get the lengths you need. The best way is a chart but in the absence of a chart you should take the strings off the bow and measure them as they are (do not untwist them). If that is not possible use a piece of string to get the ends and then compare the string to a tape measure.

I will do some looking and see if i can get the lengths for you.

Craig
05-28-2006, 01:02 PM
I used to make my own strings for my recurve (Peris Whitehheart). Like I said, it's been a while! I've no problems with the making of the main string, once I know the spec's of it but I was a bit unsure about the split cables. One because they are split and two because the split lengths look un-equal although they probably aren't.......

PLASTIC PAUL
05-28-2006, 04:52 PM
The legs should be the same when the string is made. They can then be twisted different amounts to remove cam lean. I am really meticulous about how i do stuff but i will attempt to explain how i make my split cables. After i havbe layed out all my strands i serve the single end loop, i suggest putting this at the tag end. Once that is served I remove half of my starnds from the jig and lay them aside. Tighten up the jig with the reamining strands postioned correctly and make a loop. Do the same with the other half. Now put your twists in and tension/stretch your cable. When you have what you want you can serve a stopping point (about 8-9" down) or simply untwist the upper section a bit but do not untwist the leg while you do it.

That is a rough plan for how i do mine, Paul

Craig
05-29-2006, 10:16 AM
Paul, you've been very helpful and it's been much appreciated.

I start up shooting again in the next couple of weeks (waiting on the club to set up a begineers class for the wife as she's wanting a go), untill then I'm currently building the Ocelot up and gathering as much info as I can!

Compounds are a lot more popular up my club now (they where frowned upon last time I shot!), I'd say around 50% of bows now are compounds. So I'm hoping they have a bow press and string jig etc as they used to always have all the gear......

I was wanting to get the cables made before then, but I'll have to wait untill I can sort a press out, as I think the way you suggested is probably the best option for me.

By the way, do you know if I can update my bow to the latest limbs/cam configuration - as it's something I think I will be interested in once I get back into shooting?

Thanks again - Craig....

Craig
05-29-2006, 11:26 AM
Do you still make strings for others by the way Paul? Would be interested If you can find the specs out off the charts I have. The thing thats confusing me is I have the charts for the 2 years the bow was made (Z-Cam charts). But I'm not sure which chart is the one for my bow. One say's 'with brass spindle string anchors', the other says 'with pegs'. I'm pretty sure it's the latter one although not 100%. Anyway if you can give me an idea on a price that would be great. I can forward the charts I have onto you if you let me know your email. Along with any other info you may need I can measure off the bow.

Craig......

See attached image for my cam, like I said I'm pretty sure it's the peg chart I should be using!

PLASTIC PAUL
05-29-2006, 11:17 PM
Yes I do build strings for other people. You are right, you have the pegs as apposed to the anchors. If you can use a string to get the measurements I cab build you a set. The main number i will need is from the post on the bottome cam to the center of your nock point. This allows me to center up your center serving so the string moves more evenly. The rest of the numbers I can probably get from my friends at Martin since I have the specs on your bow.

My normal price for a set of strings is $50 US. I normally include shipping inside the US so I can probably do you a set for $55 US shipped.

As for upgrading, if you are going to be target shooting you may not want to bother. Some of the older bows are the best shooting for paper punching.