View Full Version : 2007 Martin Pantera - Need Help!

11-13-2009, 08:38 AM
Just picked up an '07 Pantera for what I thought was a decent price. Bow is nearly new but naked. I am going to need to put on all of the necessary gear to get me up and running and don't want to spend too much on accessories for now.

I'm coming from a 15 year old PSE Polaris setup on which I shot fingers. I've recently purchased a new TruGlo 3 pin optic sight and bohning quiver, so I'm covered there.

Here is what I am going to need at a minimum to get me up and running on the Martin:

1. Rest - I'm thinking of going with QAD drop away rest. Any comments/conerns?
2. Release - Never shot a release so I have not a clue on where to go with this one.
3. Bow set at 29" draw. I currently use a 30" draw with fingers. Any idea on what to expect with moving to release from fingers? Should I order the module to move me to 30" draw or wait to see what it feels like with release on the 29"?
4. There is no knock or D-Loop on the string. I would like to attempt to set the entire bow up myself at first before bringing it to someone to tune. When do I set up the knock and D-Loop? Hints/Tips/Suggestions on how to set these up? I'm most nervous about this part but I'm confident in my ability to follow someone's lead.

I'm extremely excited and need some help. I could take the bow over to A&M Archery in Lakewood but I'd like to at least try and get it up and running myself first. The cables and string are new so I should be able to finish it off with the bare minimum listed above.

Once I'm up and running I will come back for more suggestions and comments but for now I think this is all I need.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Chris - Extremely Excited Martin Owner

11-13-2009, 09:02 AM
I would wait on ordering the module, and see what kind of release you get,and to set the knock and D loop, first you need to put on a rest,

11-13-2009, 10:09 AM
You can do almost every tuning on your bow yourself. There's a good site in internet- bowtuningtips.com - you can check it. You can ask us every question you have and we will help (but in the site there are videos and it's better to watch then to read ;) ).

11-13-2009, 11:36 AM
Thanks, I will definitely check out the site. I'm glad to hear that you guys think I can handle it myself. That is what I was looking for.

Sounds like a rest is the first thing I need to close in on.

Going to be using the bow for hunting deer from tree stand. Looking for containment rest and love the idea of 0 contact like the drop away rests. Not sure about the complexity of them vs the ease of use of a biscuit rest.

Anything specific to that?

C Bailey
11-13-2009, 12:30 PM
I would recommend the limbdriver rest. I picked one up cheap on Ebay to try out and never went back. It is super easy to set up and doesn't tug on your cables like some other drop away rests. They are a bit expensive and Im not sure how I got away with one for less than $20 on Ebay, but after using one for a while I would definitely pay full price to replace it. It definitely isn't full-containment, but the launcher is pretty wide. If you really want full-containment, another option is the full containment trophy taker. I had one and it shot pretty well and alot of people swear by the trophy takers.

Regarding releases, I would really suggest trying out a few different kind of releases. My buddy recently switched from fingers to a release and the one he settled on was a cheap tru-fire thumb release. Trigger releases didn't feel right to him. You can buy used releases pretty cheap on Ebay. Also, if you haven't checked out Archery Talk yet (www.archerytalk.com), get on there and check out the classifieds section. There are a ton of different trigger releases that have subtle differences, but the tru-ball stinger can be found new for about $30 and seems like a good bare bones release. Tru-ball releases seem pretty well built to me. I have the pro-diamond thumb/handle release and really like it, even for hunting. You can keep the release attached to your loop while sitting on your stand.

Good luck.

11-13-2009, 01:09 PM
For the rest, if you are set on full containment, the QAD will do OK. I'd reccommend a rest with more arrow support like the Spot-Hogg Whammy myself, but it doesn't offer full containment like the QAD does, so I'd say go with the QAD. It is a good rest, and should do you fine for hunting.

Releases are subjective. You may like some, you may dislike others. i have a Tru-Ball Short-n-sweet. After owning over a dozen strap style releases, this is the only one I relly like. Its basic and simple, yet consistent and crisp. Good enough that the world champ (Dietmar Trillius) shoots with it and wins international tourneys. the open jaw will make hookup in a hunting scenario simple, and it will never fail. Only $60. you could spend a lot more, but why?

I think with a release, the 29" mod should be the way to go. generally, releases shorten the DL of the bow about an inch.

11-14-2009, 06:57 AM
Thanks so much everyone. I think I'm off and ready. Put a bid on a limbdriver on ebay and tru-ball short and sweet. I am confident I shouldn't have a problem tying the d -loop and that should be all I need for now.

I will come back and let you know how it all works out.

Again, thanks a ton for all of the helpful information.

11-14-2009, 09:03 AM
i shoot a QAD and the only complaint i have about it is that it is LOUD!!!, never had any mech problems with it, its just loud. if your gonna get one look into the lock-down or pro modle, or try a ripcord, pretty much the same as the QAD, but has built in silencers/dampeners. hope this helps ya out a little:D

11-14-2009, 02:00 PM
I have tried some Fall away rest on Pantera, but only the NAP QT Flipper don't un synchronise the cam...but if you choose it, take the QT Freedom, it's better with it sÚcurity.

I have now a NAP QT 1000, it's perfect, easy tunable and solid

For the loop, i think you can found many page on the Net, with pics, or better: do make it by a archery shop, and take cons.

For the release, if you have never shoot with, take a wrist release, simple like Truball Cyclone.

Welcome on Martin Family, with the better bow of 2007 ^^

11-14-2009, 02:31 PM
The other guys have given some soluid advice. I would add a few things though. For a release you need to go to a shop and try several. I'd pick one that you can adjust for length as many caliper releases end up being too long.

Draw length on the bow? I'd give it a try at 29". Going from fingers to release the bow should be about 3/4" shorter to start with. Couple that to the fact that your anchor will change you might be better off at 29" or maybe even a tad shorter. If you plan on shooting a string loop this will stretch you out about 1/2" to 3/4" anyway.

I won't make any recommendations on a rest as I'm not a great fan of most drop aways, although I've tried and used many. I prefer the simplicity of a blade. And I have never seen the need of a containment type. Rests like the QAD have launchers that are way too long for my liking. I don't know why guys think they have to have little fingers sticking up so high on each side of the arrow. If it were me I'd take a pair of side cutters and cut them down to no more than the diameter of the arrow and remove the bar across the top. These are just things that get in the way.

As for setting up and tuning? Try the Easton Tuning Guide. There is a link at www.archerytalk.com at the top of the Tuning section. It can be considered the bible of archery tuning.

I commend you on your bow choice and your desire to do things yourself. It's the best way to learn how bows work and what you can do with them.

11-20-2009, 07:49 AM
Finally got my "new" 2007 Pantera and I have a few comments/questions.

Ended up relying heavily on the advice received here as well as doing a lot of research on my own and I've gone with a tru ball short and sweet with QAD Pro HD rest. I've also gone with a T.R.U. NOK (http://www.cabelas.com/p-0004493413039a.shtml) aluminum D loop device. Any comments on that trunok thing? Anyone use one?

The bow is currently set to 29" DL which is too short for me. I've ordered the 30" module and will have to wait till that comes in before I can do anything as far as setting up the bow. I might set it up now but I understand I will need to tweak the settup once I get the new module.

I do not have a scale to measure the weight of the bow. I would like to set the limbs up to a "starting position" so I can begin to play with the weight and tiller measurements. Should I turn the limb screws all the way in to start, then back them off to adjust? Any other way to get the bow to a starting position I should know about?

Again, trying to avoid a bow shop for now and don't want to spend $$ on a scale if I don't need it. The weight is not much of a concern as I can handle 70lb draw but more concerned with the balance of the limbs. I believe that is called tiller measurement?

Thanks again for all the help. As soon as I have it somewhat setup I will take some pictures if anyone cares.

11-20-2009, 09:22 AM
That Tru-Nock is about the worst thing you could put on your bow. They are heavy, clumsy, will wear out your center serving, will wear out your release jaw, and will rob you of a lot of speed. By far the best thing you can do is get rid of it and replace it with a simple string loop.


11-20-2009, 09:30 AM
Wow, point taken! I will be sure and use a string dloop... ;)

C Bailey
11-20-2009, 05:19 PM
That Tru-Nock is about the worst thing you could put on your bow. They are heavy, clumsy, will wear out your center serving, will wear out your release jaw, and will rob you of a lot of speed. By far the best thing you can do is get rid of it and replace it with a simple string loop.


Yeah, check this out to see what happens when one of those things is on your bow string. Not the exact same item, but same principle.


11-21-2009, 06:29 AM
That video pretty much sums up what happens when you place that much weight near the center of the string. Another thing I've seen a few times is that when drawn the string takes a fairly sharp bend at the top and bottom of the metal loop creating a weak spot. I've seen a few strings that suddenly snapped at this point and the results are not pretty. Not only possible damage to the bow, but possibly to you and/or bystanders.

If you are intent on shooting a loop then go with a string loop.

As for initial setup? You can bottom the limbs if you wish or back them off evenly to a desired weight. Assume about a 3# drop in weight per turn of the bolts. I agree with you that weight is not important. During any tuning you can use the limb bolts to adjust to match your arrow spine. Get good flight and don't worry about whether the bow is set at 67# or 70#. There's not that much difference in speed and the critters don't care either. Afterall, poundage is just a number. And if your arrows are slightly underspined for 70# turning the bow down a turn or more is a whole lot cheaper than buying new arrows.

The rest of the initial setup is the same as other bows. One of the first things to check for is cam lean and eliminate it (Nitrous cams?). Set the rest height and centershot, nocking point, and get to tuning from there.

12-18-2009, 10:26 AM
Okay, so I'm up and running. I will post some pics when I get around to taking them but for now, I am VERY happy with my setup. Here is what I ended up with:

F7 module so I increased my DL to 30". I have a question about this at the end, stay tuned...
QAD Ultra HD Pro Rest. Very happy with it. Easy set up and so far works perfectly.
TruBright 3 Pin Fiber optic Sight. Again, very happy. Don't need more than 2 pins. Purchased the Blue LED Light that screws into the frame which is good when I shoot in low light situations. Don't need to use it outside but comes in handy when practicing in the basement.
Cut my own Beman ICS Carbon arrows to length using a rig I found on the Internet with Dremel. If anyone wants more info just ask. Worked perfectly.
Truball Short n Sweet release. Again, very happy with it. Very simple and easy to use.

My grouping has gotten SIGNIFICANTLY tighter at 20 yards. I have 20 yard target setup in the basement so I can practice at any time. With my old PSE and using finger release, it was very inconsistent. Now, my first group of 4 arrows are all within 2 inches in the bullseye. I couldn't hit the bullseye with my previous setup. I will take some pictures of the groupings also. I'm amazed.

So, I tied my own DLoop with Dloop material and also tied on some knocking points. Everything turned out great although I'm sure I will do better the more I practice.

Here is the one and only issue I have. I believe I truly need a 31" DL on a bow. Right now I have found a comfortable position to anchor but the string comes no where near my mouth or face which doesn't allow me to set a second anchor point. I believe the reason I am comfortable is that I am coming from a finger release on a 31" bow. So I think my hand is in the same position as it was with the 31" DL with the string being 1" forward on this setup, if that make sense. Again, I'm pretty consistent and happy with my groups but I feel with a longer DL I would be able to set up multiple anchor points to further improve accuracy and consistency.

Do I have any options at all with this bow to increase DL assuming I'm using the F7 module and have the string on the larger 1/2" CAM adjustment? Should I be concerned at all? Using the M-Pro CAM system.

Thanks again to all for the help this far. So very happy. Love my Martin.