View Full Version : Need Help with 08 Firecat

12-02-2009, 03:11 PM
Was trying to paper tune this bow and for some reason the rest has to be so far out that my sites won't go over far enough. The local shop said that he thinks the cams are leaning and maybe it needs limbs. Martin said the cams are supposed to lean and I should swap the spacers on the cams. Does not make sense to me. Got any suggestions? Thanks

12-02-2009, 03:21 PM
id do what martin tells me to do. they made the bow:D

12-02-2009, 03:34 PM
The cams lean just a tad on my FireCat, but it is very little. I think I remember switching the spacers around and it made the bow shoot worse. I think I remember the cables would not track right onto the module. Or it might have been on my Moab. I can't remember.

I know this varies a little but my Cat likes the rest set 7/8" from the sight window. Where is yours?

You might have a spine issue. Give the poundage and draw length of the bow and detailed specs on the arrow.

12-02-2009, 03:59 PM
When you lay the bow flat you can tell that the cams both lean downwards. It is set at 68 lbs, 27' draw Don't know much about the arrows they are vapor carbon arrows that say 55/70on them I believe they are still 30" long right now with 100 grain tips. The shop thinks the arrows are fine. I have a G5 rest on it that Is out all the wayto get it shoot straight but the G5 sights can't go over that far. The shop thinks there is something wrong with either the cams or the limbs but Martin said that they don't think so but also never looked at it. Thanks for your replies.

12-02-2009, 04:59 PM
This arrow, at 30" long is underspined for your bow IMO. A quick way to find out is to take two turns off the limbs and see how they paper tune. I think the arrows area 400 spine which would be OK if cut down to 27" or close to that.

The 5570 denotes the draw weight they can be shot at, but what you are not being told is at what length. This means a lot.

That's why I sy to turn the bow down and see. It doesn't cost anything and if it works it should point you in the right direction.

As much as I hate to put you off on the cam issue, this is something you'll have to work out with Martin. A way to check for cam lean is to hold an arrow against the side of the cam and see if it runs parallel to the string. Try this and measure how far it is between the string and arrow near the nocking point or close to the center of the string. Let me know what you get.

If you have a gap of more than 3/8" or so then it is quite possibly a limb issue.

12-02-2009, 05:17 PM
I was going to cut them down to 27" but haven't yet. Ok I put the arrow flat on the cam and from the top cam the arrow leans in to where it could nock on the string at the nocking point of the string, from the bottom cam the arrow leans past the string about 1/2" at the nocking point of the string. Seems like a lot of lean. Thanks for you help.

12-02-2009, 07:39 PM
What happened to ya, do you think I have a limb problem? Thanks

12-02-2009, 08:23 PM
What happened to ya, do you think I have a limb problem? Thanks

unlike you and i, others sleep at night.lol:D

12-03-2009, 08:33 AM
What happened to ya, do you think I have a limb problem? Thanks

I'm around. I'm old, and as ezbite says, I need my sleep. Just kidding. I am involved in four other archery forums as well as this one. On top of that I scuba dive so I spend time on three scuba forums. Along with the scuba I do underwater video so I'm on a couple forums with that. Then I DO have to spend some time editing the videos I do on my own. A half hour video usually involves about 100 hours of editing, titling, color correction, and adding music. The music takes the most time. I sometimes listen to a couple hundred songs a week for a couple months to get just the right songs. Then, I have a part time job and shooting my bows, both of which are just hobbies. Then there's the wife and grandkids I have to see once in a while.

OK, get the idea? I'm not griping at you either. Just letting you know I have all kinds of interests. I'm usually on here a couple times a day.

OK, I just took a closer look at mine. I lead you astray. Using an arrow, hold it on the module side of the cam. There's more room. From top limb to nocking point mine has a gap of a little less than 3/8". From bottom limb to nocking point the gap is about 1/2". OK? Mine tunes pretty well. I have bare shaft tuned and been able to get a bare shaft to fly dead straight out to 30 yards consistently. After that it gets a little quirky, but only because I haven't really made fine adjustments beyond 30 yards. My nocking point is just a hair low as my arrows plane up about 4" at 40 yards, but that's a pretty good distance for a bare shaft.

Sounds to me like your cam lean is about the same as mine so the bow should be tunable. I don't particularly like any cam lean, but it's a fact of most bows these days, with the exception of Martins X-system cams, which you are not dealing with.

If I were you I would move the rest closer to centershot, about 7/8" from the sight window. Get an arrow or two cut down to what you want and start tuning from there. Paper tuning is OK for now. Bare shafting is best left to those who know what they're doing and have very consistent form as it's very tricky.

Play with nocking point first getting the vertical straightened out. The work on the horizontal. There's nothing written in stone that says you have to shoot a bow with the limbs maxed out so don't be afraid to turn the bow down if need be. That is acceptable while tuning. That's part of the reason bows are adjustable. Maybe different weight points on the arrows as well. It all depends on how the arrow is leaving the bow.

OK, the best help you can get for tuning is a copy of Easton's Tuning Guide. It explains basic setups (what some guys wrongly call tuning) and several different methods of actual tuning. It's kind of the archers' bible when it comes to tuning. Easton might have it on their website (haven't checked for a while) or www.bowjackson.com should have it.

Go from there and see what you come up with. I'm just inclined to think the biggest part of your problem may be arrow spine and lack of education. You'll learn, just like the rest of us. Let us know how you make out.

12-03-2009, 02:05 PM
You sound like a busy man. I have the eastmans tuning guide and have tuned several bows. This one just won't, I did shoot the 27" arrow and it made no difference. The up and down on the paper is perfect, I started with the rest moved in where it really should be and tore the crap out of the paper, As I moved it out it got better untill the rest was all the way out and then it tore the paper about 2", I then put a longer screw in it and moved it out some more and then it made a perfect hole in the paper and also shot a great bare arrow out at 30 yards. But my rest is out almost past the riser so the arrow won't even sit on it till the rest rises and there is no way the sites can move that far. When the arrow is nocked and sitting on the rest it looks like it is pointing away from the bow. The arrow flat on the bottom cam on the adjusting side goes away from the string about an inch. I was tuning at the local shop and the owner says it is messed up and to send it back to Martin, but Martin says to take it to the shop and pay them. I just bought this bow. So I don't know what the heck to do. I can adjust it where it will shoot but my arrows will have a pretty hard fish tail to it. I have shot Martins for about 13 years now but not really happy with this one. I really appreciate your time and help on this. Thanks

12-03-2009, 04:44 PM
Thanks, but I don't know that I helped all that much. All I've done so far is post some specs and results I've got with my own FireCat. That and make a few suggestions that usually work.

I can sympathize with your situation. The dealer thinks there is a problem. He refers you to the company. The company refers you back to the dealer. So it doesn't take long before you think "I'm getting the old run around". I don't blame you.

I do know that Martin prefers to have dealers handle such things as they are supposedly the "PRO" with enough experience to take a look see and determine what the problem is then make the necessary connections with Martin to resolve the issue. What I'm saying is that the dealer should be talking with Martin. If he thinks there is a limb problem he should just order new limbs under the warranty contract. That's what part of being a dealer is all about.

Whether he will charge for labor or not to do the limb swap is his call. If you can't do it then you should expect to compensate him for his time and effort. However, if you were my customer I would do the job pro bono. Just call it good customer relations, especially if you are a returning or faithful customer.

12-03-2009, 05:56 PM
Yeah, I dropped it off at the shop, hopefully they can get this fixed. I was wondering if anybody else had this problem. Thanks again