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Ehunter
03-06-2010, 12:53 PM
Anyone have any speed tips for getting the most out of a '98 Moab? It uses the M-Pro1 cam. There's maybe 1/8th inch difference in tiller top to bottom. Any real advantage to upgrading to an M2-Pro cam? Thanks for your help!

bfisher
03-06-2010, 08:07 PM
Anyone have any speed tips for getting the most out of a '98 Moab? It uses the M-Pro1 cam. There's maybe 1/8th inch difference in tiller top to bottom. Any real advantage to upgrading to an M2-Pro cam? Thanks for your help!

You do mean a 2008 Moab. don't you? Honestly, the best way to get maximum speed out of a bow is to buy a speed bow in the first place.

Last year I had a Moab and a FireCat. Pretty much the same bow except for the cams. The FireCat was 15-20 fps faster than the Moab when set up the same. I got rid of the Moab. I can get the same speed out of the FireCat shooting 7-8 lbs less draw weight when compared to the Moab.

Ehunter
03-07-2010, 06:01 AM
Yeah, I meant 08. I'm getting older, cut me some slack. lol I figured I might have the Moab shooting as good as it ever would, just didn't know if there were any tweaks that were out there. Thanks for the reply bfisher!

Spiker
03-07-2010, 06:49 AM
Anyone have any speed tips for getting the most out of a '98 Moab? It uses the M-Pro1 cam. There's maybe 1/8th inch difference in tiller top to bottom. Any real advantage to upgrading to an M2-Pro cam? Thanks for your help!

If you tie a string (dental floss) from axle to axle then measure the tiller to it rather than the bow string - is it even then?

bfisher
03-07-2010, 12:01 PM
Well, being as you didn't take my first comment too personally I guess I'll just have to take the time to be more precise. There are lots of things you can do to get the most out of the bow. And they are the same for any bow.

Let's start with the string. Shorten the center serving to no more than is necessary. If you use a loop that means your center serving only needs to be about 3" long; 1 1/2" above and 1 1/2" below the loop. Then maybe about 2" where the string bumps the STS.

Eventually you'll need new strings. Replace them with good aftermarket ones made of the fastest material being made. That has been BCY 8125 up to now, but there are a couple new materials out now by BCY and Brownell that may be faster. Get the cable made of BCY 452X. Some say that 8125 creeps, but not if the stringmaker does his job. 8125 is standard material for Winner's Choice unless something else is specified. If they use it it can't be too bad.

If you use a loop keep it short. If your release doesn't make contact with the arrow nock then it's long enough. Nothing more is needed.

Use a tubeless peep. The tube costs the bow 5-8 fps and just makes noise. Now you may not be able to do this with the factory string as the peep will probably rotate. With good strings you won't have this problem.

Keep your release as short as possible, but comfortable. The trigger should end up around the second knucle of your finger at full draw. This may allow you increase the draw length of the bow maybe 1/2". It varies, but 1/2" should net you about 5 fps.

Shoot lighter arrows (total arrow weight). Stay within warranty requirements of 5 gr/lb but shooting 60# you can shoot as light as a 300 grain arrow (example). There are lots of arrows to choose from to obtain this minimu weight. You just have to look on the various makers' websites. Don't foget to add up the weights for components such as point, fletching, wrap, nock and insert. These all add to the arrow's total weight.

This should be enough for now. There are a couple other things, but they get into the realm of cam timing and such and you'd need a chronograph to see the results as you play around.

Ehunter
03-07-2010, 01:04 PM
Thanks Spiker. I did use the dental floss method, still right at 1/8th difference top to bottom. The bottom is the longer of the two. Both limb bolts are bottomed out, setting at 69# draw. Wasn't sure if non-matchng tiller was typical of this bow, or mine is just odd. Or even if it is something to worry about at all.

Ehunter
03-07-2010, 01:08 PM
Bfisher, thanks again. I didn't realise that there were tweaks for cam timing with a single cam. I was used to my old Mathews MQ32. The dealer for them told me that all the "tweaks" were in the rest of the bow, not the cam. Just figured it was the same for all one cams. Think I might try a longer draw mod, but shorten it back up with the draw stop. See where that gets me.