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View Full Version : string change on 06 Slayer and acouple of ??



rjd
03-26-2010, 08:45 PM
Want to change the string on a 06 Slayer. I know on my 08 Firecat I can just back out the limb bolts to get enough pressure to get the string/cables off . Can I do the same with the older Slayer. It came with 3 sets of strings don't really like the set that is on it. Right now it measures 38" axle to axle and 7" for the brace height.

The draw lenght seems a little long also do I need to press or can I loosen the limb bolts to change this also.

Been shoting it this way and really like it .

Would there be any advantage to finding the parts to make it a shoot thru system? One set of strings is for the shoot thru system.

alex
03-27-2010, 04:13 AM
You don't need a bowpress :)

elkslayer4x5
03-27-2010, 08:16 AM
"Would there be any advantage to finding the parts to make it a shoot thru system?"
Yes! You did'nt mention what cams are on your Slayer, both of mine are Nitrous camed and have the shoot thru system. Love em! You do not need a bowpress, however, without one you will be getting a lot of exercize cranking the limb bolts in and out when you are twisting cables trying to balance the ATA ( get the same measurement on both sides ) I found it easier to use a bow press, even the bowmaster portable is easier than useing the limb bolts. All that being said, once done, say good-bye to cam lean !!

rjd
03-28-2010, 05:32 AM
So would shorting the ata to the factory spec of 37 3/4 bring the brace height down? Do I use the cables or the string to do this. Would thjis help to get some more of the speed back out of this bow for my draw lenght. Draw lenght is 27" ish. DW is maxed out at 59# . I'm using GoldTip XT hunter 27 3/4" with a 100 grain tip. They are flecthed with Gateway Rayzers. Seemed alittle slow at 268fps. Maybe that is the limit that I'll get. any thoughts.?
Elkslayer4x5 what all do you need to make the switch to the shoot thru?
It has the nitrous b cams I think .

elkslayer4x5
03-28-2010, 07:57 AM
To bring the ATA back to 37.75, you'll have to twist both the string and the cables, mostly the cables, which will make the string loose so you'll have to twist it ( the shoot string ) until you get tension on it. Twisting the cables is going to pre load the limbs more, but we're only talking about 1/4 inch to get to factory specs. The brace height will increase a little.
To convert to a shoot-thru, you'll need the X modules, top & bottom and the screws to assemble them. 8/32 x 5/8". Check the ArcheryTalk classified, see the X mods there often.
The increased pre-load will increase your draw weight a little, might get you to 60 lbs, but with your draw length, you don't get much of a power stroke, 27" draw, minus brace, leaves 20" power stroke, not gonna gain much speed, shooting lighter arrows will.

rjd
03-28-2010, 03:34 PM
Well going to try this my self. I was under the impression from the spec chart that the Slayer should have a 7" brace height ? Are the charts wrong?

and the hunt is on for some shoot thru mods just to try.

copterdoc
03-28-2010, 03:54 PM
Well going to try this my self. I was under the impression from the spec chart that the Slayer should have a 7" brace height ? Are the charts wrong?

and the hunt is on for some shoot thru mods just to try.
The charts are often wrong.

The Slayer was made with both 13" and 14" limbs. The BH and DL range is one inch shorter, with 13" limbs.

With a 27" DL, you will get the best performance with 13" limbs and "B" cams. It will be a fire-breather.

Let me know, if you are interested in trading cams. I have everything you need, except the catgut.

copterdoc
03-28-2010, 04:04 PM
I'm pretty sure your string is too long, retarding the cams and the damping lobes are pushing the string back. If you have 14" limbs, your BH should be 6.75".

With your ATA at 38", it would probably be 6.5", if the cams were timed right.

If you had 13" limbs, and NOS B cams, with the ATA at 37.75", your BH would be 5.25"-5.5" and it would max at 27" of DL. The "adjusted" IBO for a 30" DL, would be in the neighborhood of 355-360!

copterdoc
03-28-2010, 04:17 PM
You must have NOS B cams and 14" limbs. Your current max DL should be 28".

If it was me, I would be installing a set of 13" limbs, replacing the string, and converting to the X system.

The limb swap will give you 10 F.P.S. more speed at the same DL/DW.

rjd
03-29-2010, 11:53 AM
Wow so how in the world do you guys keep it all straight. Jusr measured the limbs, they come in at 14 1/16". The cams are silver and the only mark I see on them is a "C" stamped in the them. The modules are black.

So do I still go for the 37.75" ata. So I probably won't get to my 27.75 draw lenght with these cams?

I'm even more confussed now.

Montalaar
03-29-2010, 12:10 PM
Here we go. You have C-base cams but you need B-base cams along to what copterdoc said...

copterdoc
03-29-2010, 12:39 PM
Wow so how in the world do you guys keep it all straight. Jusr measured the limbs, they come in at 14 1/16". The cams are silver and the only mark I see on them is a "C" stamped in the them. The modules are black.

So do I still go for the 37.75" ata. So I probably won't get to my 27.75 draw lenght with these cams?

I'm even more confussed now.
You have 14" limbs and C base Nitrous (NOS) cams.

It is impossible for your DL to be 27" with that setup, even with the modules in the #1 screw hole. If your cams are retarded enough, to give you a 7" BH at 38" ATA, I suspect your actual measured DL is 28.5" right now.

I don't have any idea what deflection number you need in 13" limbs, to get your DW where you want it.

I am positive that you will be happier with 13" limbs, and B cams, if YOUR actual DL is 27".

Your ATA should be "around" 37.75 with 14" limbs. If it was MY bow, I would "adjust" the string and cable specs, to make the ATA 36.5" IF I installed 13" limbs. That's just me, the charts say that it should be the same as it is with 14" limbs.

I often break the "rules", but I know what I am doing when I do so!

copterdoc
03-29-2010, 12:49 PM
...It is impossible for your DL to be 27" with that setup, even with the modules in the #1 screw hole....
I forgot one possibility.

You could have mini-mods installed on your bow.

They only have one attachment screw per module and say mini-mod along the edge of the cable track.

Mini-mods, shorten your DL range by two inches, so if that is what you have installed, your minimum DL setting would be 26".

However, the C cams are giving you unnecessary added BH, for such a short DL.

rjd
03-29-2010, 08:17 PM
The limb's have 5m written on them. The module screw is in the #1 hole. If I could get it around a 1/4" shorter it would be close.
Are there timing marks on hte cams to go by? When I draw it back the top cam hit the end of the mod about 1/8" before the bottom cam.
So I would really need to swap out the cams to get to my real draw lenght.
I went and looked at my 08 Firecat it is set up in the #4 hole. So were does that sit as far as draw lenght. It fits me really well. I'm comfortable with it. And I shot it really well.
If I need to would pictures help. ? Wouldn't be able to do anything till tomorrow night.

Montalaar
03-29-2010, 11:17 PM
Photos are always a great thing to deal with. ;)

rjd
03-30-2010, 06:28 PM
Here are some pictures of the cams. From both sides.

copterdoc
03-31-2010, 01:09 PM
The limb's have 5m written on them. The module screw is in the #1 hole. If I could get it around a 1/4" shorter it would be close.
Are there timing marks on hte cams to go by? When I draw it back the top cam hit the end of the mod about 1/8" before the bottom cam...
Those are C cams, with regular high let-off modules. The string-to-cable length ratio looks right, so your DL should be 28".

Measure it, to make sure.

Fit, always takes priority over speed, so you have to make sure that the bow's DL is the same as your DL.

I need to know what your DL is, before I can tell you what I recommend you change. There are several options, depending on what your actual DL measures.

rjd
03-31-2010, 01:30 PM
Measured at 27.5 . So were really not all that far off. I have been shooting it this way for almost a month. It feels like I'm stretching to come to full draw. If new/differant cams are what I need guess will have to look for. Just not what I want to spend more money on.

copterdoc
03-31-2010, 03:18 PM
It doesn't need to cost you any money, except shipping and a new string. I'm pretty sure I have what you need, if you want to swap cams.

Go on Archery Talk and search for threads by Nuts&Bolts, under "Draw Length".

Look at the things he shows in his pics and determine whether your DL is too long or not.

rjd
03-31-2010, 07:42 PM
Doc I'm pretty sure it is about a 1/2" to long compared to the fit/feel of my Firecat and High Country Protec. I'll have to measure the second set of strings and cables that came with it. So the modules will be the same ?

Montalaar
04-01-2010, 12:07 AM
If i understand copterdoc right he will send you the smaller B-Cams if you will send him your C-Cams. The modules will be the same either if he will send you his modules or you will keep your own. Furthermore you need to buy a new string as the B-Cam are somewhat smaller and need a string that is 5" shorter. After reinstalling everything you will have a bow that will fit you. And everything for not that much money.

copterdoc
04-01-2010, 01:14 PM
If i understand copterdoc right he will send you the smaller B-Cams if you will send him your C-Cams. The modules will be the same either if he will send you his modules or you will keep your own. Furthermore you need to buy a new string as the B-Cam are somewhat smaller and need a string that is 5" shorter. After reinstalling everything you will have a bow that will fit you. And everything for not that much money.
Yep, I've got B cams and X-mods for sure.

If you want to keep the cable guard, you only need the 52.75" string. If you want the X-mods, you will need 4 single loop cables, 39.25" long.

You will need to find a set of 13" limbs. I'm not sure on the deflection # you will need, but I think 3L/2H should be about right for 60#.