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cridertj
04-02-2010, 06:12 PM
I just got a 09 warthog and had a peep and D loop installed the string was a custom made by the guy that build them at the local bow shop. If I am reading the draw length right I am at 29 ď that I think is the # 5 hole and all the way to the + on the draw stop. My arrow weight is 358 gr. thatís 27 ď gold tip xt and blazer vanes with 85 gr tips. My question is I am only getting 280 fps out of it and that seams a little slow for an Ibo of 350 fps is there any thing I can do to speed it up?

tommyhydro
04-02-2010, 06:37 PM
what is your draw weight? most companies(from what i have read/heard) advertise their speed's at 30" draw, max # and the lightest arrow safely possible, unless they list the arrow weight. and just for the record, i love martin products, not trying to flame them, just trying to help

cridertj
04-02-2010, 06:44 PM
Sorry i for got that i am pulling 70 lbs. I am not sure but i thought they were Ibo speeds which i think would be a 350 gr arrow at 70 lbs i did not think that a 1" draw lose and the peep and d loop would make that much different.

tommyhydro
04-02-2010, 06:54 PM
to be completely honest with ya i dont know which one uses 350 arrow



never mind, found something...its at the bottom of the page

http://www.huntersfriend.com/2007-Bow-Reviews/compound-bows-sorted-by-ibospeed.htm

here is another one talking about the difference between AMO and IBO

http://www.ikesoutdoors.com/1/post/2009/01/post-title-click-and-type-to-edit.html


hope this helps ya out....either way i would be happy with what your shooting, never even chronoed my cheetah:)

DB_43725
04-02-2010, 08:32 PM
First thing have you weighed it on a scale,reason im asking I have a 50 to 60lb warthog and it would only go up to 55lbs till I put about 5 twists in each cable. Then the next thing to check is the cam timing that is very crit. on thes bows. Mine after some work at 60lbs will shoot with a 300 gr arrow and 31 in draw in the uper 320s and that all I can get outa of it, so I think their IBO advertizing is a little shall we say outa reach. But it does shoot nice. Hope this helps, O by the way their is a post on AT on how to set up those cams dont know the link but do a search and you will find it,very helpfull.

XSpot
04-02-2010, 10:09 PM
I would make sure its pulling 70 lbs . This bow at 80% lett off will be much slower. To get it near the IBO speeds check timing make sure its dead on. Do not move draw stop. Then you must move your modules to the next longer position and the bow will be at approx 65% lett off, The mods will not touch the cabels. You will see a big speed incease. If you need help see a dealer. My bow is shooting an arrow FMJ at 458grns at 28.5 at 70 lbs at 65% lett off at 294 fps average. and a St axis 410grn arrow at 310 FPS. Light speed 355grn at 328Fps. To make it go fast its got to be at 65%.

cridertj
04-03-2010, 08:43 AM
here are some picks of my cams i also have this posted on At but was trying to get some more ideas since it is ranning today it will be a good time for me to work on it.
http://www.myhostedpics.com/images/cridertj/dsc00995.jpg
http://www.myhostedpics.com/images/cridertj/dsc00994.jpg

scepterman30x
04-03-2010, 11:09 AM
I know these cams seem to work a little better wrapped more than what most would consider ideal but you look a little outa time and they seem to be wrapped a little too tight.

bfisher
04-03-2010, 02:35 PM
I know these cams seem to work a little better wrapped more than what most would consider ideal but you look a little outa time and they seem to be wrapped a little too tight.

Yeah, now that there are pictures I'd say they are way over rotated. Not sure that would be an issue with your speed question, but it doesn't help the bow much. For another, if your modules are set to the #5 position and should be 29" then I think you get an actual measurement to be sure. I'll bet it's long.

Maybe it's my bifocal lenses, but the bottom cam looks like it's wrapped up tighter then the top one. Looks like the string is actually bending around the post.

Another thing. You say you're shooting a Gold Tip XT. Which spine? There are three different spines if I remember right. In your case, considering the draw length and weight I wouldn't hesitate to recommend the 7595 which is a .340 spine. In fact, with the Cat Cam you're inching very close to needing a 300 spine.

At any rate, doing the calculations from GT's website, if you're shooting a 7595 28" long your total arrow weight should be about 355-360 grains; well within safety limits and near enough to the 5 gr/lb IBO recommendations.

And FYI, IBO specs are not established using "the lightest arrow that can be safely shot". IBO specs are an ATA standard now, using a 30" draw, 70# bow and a 350 grain arrow. There are certain allowances that allows manufacturers to fudge 10-15 fps more out of a bow. But that arrow weight of 350 grains is for total arrow weight. Whether it's a fletched shaft or bare or anything else does not matter. It still totals 350 grains.

I honestly, without seeing the bow personally, say why it's not up to speed, but I would recommend you get the bow to factory specs of brace height and axle to axle and draw weight. Then get an actual AMO draw length measurement. Get the cams in their intended orientation and synchronized properly and see what you get, because right now it appears the bow is way out of whack.

You can try tweaking the bow later, but you have to have a baseline to begin with.

bfisher
04-03-2010, 03:04 PM
See if I can post some pics of about how your cams should be orientated. Something else is that our draw stop should not be set to it's maximum as this allows for overdrawing the bow past it's draw length setting.

Take notice that in the top cam there is a hole to the extreme right side just inboard of the edge of the cam on the underside of the limb. There is one on the bottom cam also, just above the inside of the limb. If you eyeball from the side these should line up with the inside edge of the limb. This is a good place to start with cam orientation and for cam synchronization.

cridertj
04-04-2010, 03:32 AM
See if I can post some pics of about how your cams should be orientated. Something else is that our draw stop should not be set to it's maximum as this allows for overdrawing the bow past it's draw length setting.

Take notice that in the top cam there is a hole to the extreme right side just inboard of the edge of the cam on the underside of the limb. There is one on the bottom cam also, just above the inside of the limb. If you eyeball from the side these should line up with the inside edge of the limb. This is a good place to start with cam orientation and for cam synchronization.

so do i put twist in to the string to seprate the sting from the post oand also what do i need to do to adjust the brace hight and the ata?

bfisher
04-05-2010, 06:05 AM
so do i put twist in to the string to seprate the sting from the post oand also what do i need to do to adjust the brace hight and the ata?

I would start with adding twists to the string and/or removing some twists from the cables till you get the cams oriented close. Doing so is going to drop the draw weight and shorten the draw length. Then weigh the bow and take measurements of the A2A and brace height. You can always move the module to adjust the draw length to what you want.

Play with this till you get the A2A and brace height close and if you need more weight you can add some twists to the cables, but don't go too crazy. Personally I like about a 1/8" gap between the string and the post. Don't forget that you also have to adjust the draw stop.

Frankly I've never had to play around with twisting the cables. I have such a short draw that I set mine on the shortest setting. I'd love to add some twists to the cables for better performance, but then the draw would be too long for me and I'll sacrifice performance any day to optimize the draw length for myself. I can actually tell a difference in 1/4" draw difference. The bow aims a whole lot different (less stable).