View Full Version : Setting nock height on my bow

O man
04-18-2010, 11:49 AM
I have a Wildcat and when I paper tune it I only get bullet holes when the D
loop is set 1/4" low. Everything I've read suggests I set the nocking point high
not low on a solo cam bow. I checked the tiller measurements 1st and there
both the same. Also, it has a prong style rest. When the arrow is nocked its going uphill to the rest. Is this correct?

04-18-2010, 12:06 PM
Need more info: What bow and cam system? Draw length of the bow, draw weight, spine and length of the arrow, point weight and type of fletching. Anything else you can think of.

Are you paper tuning? If the arrow is spined right it's possible that the spring pressure on the rest is too high. This can cause the arrows to give a nock high tear in the paper. The spring pressure should be as light as you can get it but heavy enough to support the arrow without collapsing when you draw the bow.

In general the arrow should be close to level with the rest, or put another way, it should be perpendicular to the string. However, most bows tune a little better and give better fletching clearance with the nocking point a little high. That would mean the top knot of a loop 3/16 to 1/4" above square. This assumes that you are shooting an arrow spined within the parameters of your bow and getting little to no fletching contact with the rest.

O man
04-18-2010, 01:25 PM
It has a 26" draw length. I'm shooting easton Raider 55-70 carbon arrows with
2" blazers and 100 grain field points the bow is set at 60# and the arrow length is 27 3/4" The bow is a 2008 Martin Wildcat

O man
04-18-2010, 01:33 PM
I forgot its a single cam and the cam is marked M pro.

Hutch~n~Son Archery
04-18-2010, 01:35 PM
A 2008 Martin Wildcat (from Dick's Sporting Goods) is the same as the Martin Jaguar and should have the same specs as the 2007 model Jaguar.

O man
04-18-2010, 02:45 PM
Thanks for the help guys. I'm pretty new at this stuff so I'll have to mess with
it some more. I was thinking of just setting it a little nock high and trying it
again. It could be just my lack of experience.

04-18-2010, 04:20 PM
Ok, considering the draw weight, draw length, cam type, arrow length and such I'd come to the conclusion you could shoot a less stiff shaft. The 5570 that you now have falls within the recommended weight parameters, but this is usually figured at about a 29" draw and a more aggresive cam.

I couldn't find any info on Easton's website or Dick's about your arrows, but just using experience I'd say they are a .340 spine whereas you'd be better off shooting a .400 spine and if you'd shorten your arrows to about 27" or a little less you could concievably even shoot a .500 spine.

At your draw length and such you could even shoot a .400 spine at 70#

I'm not certain this is the problem with your set up, but just consider it advice for the not-so-distant future when you buy new arrows. If you have any plans of increasing the draw weight then go with a .400 spine

When I state that I'm speaking from experience I mean 37 years of shooting compounds plus the fact that I shoot around 26.5" draw and similar draw weight (at one time). A couple years ago I was able to shoot a .500 spine as high as 63# and at 27" length with 75 grain point; sometimes a 100 grain point. So I'm saying I've been there.

Something else you might find of some use is Easton's Tuning Guide. Download a copy and learn it, and learn to use it. It'll be helpful for years to come.

O man
04-18-2010, 06:43 PM
Thanks I really appreciate the info, and I'll check out that tuning guide.

04-19-2010, 08:04 AM
Thanks I really appreciate the info, and I'll check out that tuning guide.

I'm not good at posting links, but on www.archerytalk.com you can find some links in the "Stickies" at the top of the Tuning section.

10-08-2010, 01:58 AM
Its sounds good to me al ot.