View Full Version : Cam timing
Does anyone on here know how or what to do to find the correct timing for the M-2 cam on a 2009 Martin MOAB. Would like to find some info if possible.
Thank in advance,
05-25-2010, 05:25 PM
Here is a link for you the manual explains how to set the timinghttp://www.martinarchery.com/manuals/2009MartinBowManual.pdf
Nowhere in the manual does it tell you how to set the cam as to correct position of the cam regards to the sting.
Sorry but I just don't find it..
I've been in touch with bfischer, and this morning sent him two pictures of what my situation looks like. I'm under the impression that my cam is being very much under-rotated..
First off the string measures .75" short of the figures on the lower limb.
Secondly the axel to axel measurement is short by .25"..
This indicates to me that I would have to do a whole bunch of untwisting to get it to where it should be..
Now a bit of background: I have been in archery since 1951, am 85 years old and still pulling the string. I came up thru the longbow, the recurve, and the Allen compound. Used to shoot a Martin Gougar of years ago. All my bows, even the recurves were able to be tuned to shoot a bare shaft at 20 yards and reaching the bullseye. This particular bow (MOAB 2009) has given me fits since I purchased in Jan 14, 2009..
I could possibly upload the two pics I sent to bfischer this morning if anyone would like to see what I'm talking about..
Any suggestions would be of help.
Thanking you in advance for reading this.......
Hopefully this will show
05-26-2010, 11:52 AM
Does the 'hole' in the cam line up with the edge of the limb like this?----->
Will attemp to send another pic..Hope it's not as big as the last one.
05-26-2010, 01:21 PM
I would suggest that your cam is a tad overrotated.
But something else:
Is it possible that your string or cable is rubbing at the right side of the Cam? At your last photo it looks like the serving starts to move away from that spot.
I just put it on the scale and as I pulled it down, the string rides perfectly in the center until just as it comes into the valley and then it lifts off to the left side of the cam..
My draw length is 26/27" and the bow is 35/50 set at 42 pounds for the tired old shoulders
I could put it on the drawboard and take pic if you would like to see of which I speak..
05-26-2010, 06:08 PM
Do that. The more pictures the more detail we have. By the way, I accidentally deleted your last email to me. The pics you sent were fairly good. Good enough for me to tell you that the amount of groove you have is way too much.
The string should come off the cam closer to the base of the "2" where the M2 etching is. As I said in my email to you, you want about 1/2" to 5/8" of groove showing.
On another note Montalaar says your cam is over rotated. Maybe it's just a matter of terminology but I have always thought the position of your cam shows that it is under rotated. I could be wrong, but I just want to make sure we're on the same page with our interpretations.
The orientation of your cam is way off. As it is right now you need to either add about 10-15 twists to the string or untwist the string or a combo of both. I know you're getting new strings, but try getting the orientation right withe strings you have so you know what you need to do with your new ones. If and when you get the cam set right take a pencil and draw a line on the left side of the cam where it passes through the limb fork so you have an idea of just how to set it with the new strings.
05-26-2010, 07:48 PM
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To all those who have helped:
I put the bow on the drawboard this morning, and the string is coming off straight. I must have been torquing the handle when pulling the scale down.
I twisted the y-cable tighter to get the prescribed spacing on the cam channel. The y-cable is now short enough to make the string and cam look good. Like maybe a shade over 1/2". Also found it was time for new string and cable, as the serving on the y-cable end was separated..
I want to say THANKS ro all who have lent me their knowledge on this project as it is appreciated very much..
This all started because I could not bare shaft tune this bow thru paper.
I have fine tuned all my bows by bare shaft tuning and that started with the recurve and fingers. Now bfischer tells me it can't be done with this bow.
Should have told me that at the beginning Barry..HeeHee
Anyway, I must repeat my thanks to all who chimed in to help!!!
Will try and load a couple of pictures to show what I have accomplished...
05-27-2010, 01:28 PM
That looks much better. Now it's time to shoot the thing and see the difference. Keep us posted, too.
Hey, I didn't say the bow won't bare shaft tune. I'm just saying that me and another staff shooter have not had any luck with bare shafting. I've always bare shafted, too, and I find this very frustrating. I'm a hard headed old coot and hate to admit it, but maybe it's time to forget it and move on. There are lots of other tuning methods.
Now go shoot and let us know if all this advice and your work was worth the effort. The suspense is killing me.
First thing I had to do was take a turn and one half out on the limb bolts,
And now I'm going to shorten the draw length a tad..Shot five arrows in the basement at 10 yards as I'm not allowed to shoot in the yard..City ordinance!!
All five in the white on the 5 spot target..
Oh yes, I also had to shorten up my cord from the LimbDriver arrow rest..Wish I would have sent pictures earlier---------------------
Thanks for all your help and the help from the others, greatly appreciated!!
Now I must await the arrival of my Carter Squeeze Me release..In the meantime I can use my Cascade until it comes..
Thanks again Barry..
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