View Full Version : arrow weight
I am wanting to lighten up my arrows I'm at 380 total grains now with. 70 pound draw I know the lightest I can go is 350. Is this a danger zone to crack limbs? I was thinkink about feathers and I weighed them and they are twelve grains less so now should I cut my arrow a little? I feel most comfortable with my arrow a little past the riser. Where does everyone like their arrow on full draw?
06-19-2010, 06:44 AM
Sorry, but I can't answer your question reguarding arrow weight, except to advise staying with the 5 gr per pound. What bow are you shooting? Now as to the question of where I've cut my arrows to I can answer that. My Bemans are cut to the front of the bow, and the A/C/Cs are cut to 1/4 inch in front of the prongs of my rest. That help any? :D
06-19-2010, 07:45 AM
Wow Elky that sounds a little dangerous to me to cut it that close to the rest??? Mines about an inch out and I wonder sometimes if thats a bit short??? BUT WHAT DO I KNOW ????
I am shooting a martin bone hunter. I was just trying to lighten up my arrows I'm one 1.75 past my riser! I've been shooting everyday for eight months now and I got in to refletching my arrows. I thought I would lighten u my arrows. With out having to buy new ones and I was thinking about cutting a inch off of them. I was shooting at sixty pounds and was shooting well over a hundred times a day. Then I cranked it to seventy pounds! I love the speed for the money I'm getting! I learned how to ut a helical on my arrows run into some fletching clearance issues so I put a rip cord fall away on it! I'm shooting 289 fps with a 70 pound draw 380 total grain arrow and just a peep with no tubeing on the string and this bow is so very quiet and I can shoot cig buts with it from thirty yards away! I'm trying to get a idea where a experienced shooters comfort zone is for arrow lenghth on full draw and if th five grain er pound rule is golden and safe to go buy! I don't want to crack my limbs or run a arrow through my hand! So I wanna use my arrows I have if possible in hopes to get 300 fps out of this bow.... Safely! Thanks for your replies and I hope to hear from all of you soon!
My advice is: don't touch anything on the bow if you're shooting that well. If you lighten your arrow you'll increase the risk of damaging the limbs. 5-10fps don't worth it.
06-19-2010, 12:06 PM
I run my arrows at 1" infront of the rest, which puts the field point right in the center of the riser.
That's the most common length, But only cut them to that if you are certain that your DL is correct.
If you shoot broadheads some people like to make their arrows longer to put the broadhead out infront of their hand. It's all your pref.
But as said if your shooting well and your at 289 fps, there's no real reason to change anything. There are far too many people obsessed with speed.
As for the 5grains/lb, I highly suggest you stick to that rule. If for no other reason because if your limbs do crack and you were shooting under 5grains/lb than you voided your warrenty and you'll have to buy new limbs. If you keep at 5grains/lb or above and your limbs crack, Martin will warrentee them at no cost to you!
Are you shooting Blazer or short 2" vanes? If not, I would suggest going to them instead of feathers. If you already are shooting 2" vanes, than just stick with what you got..
Thanks for the helpful advice! I think I might try 2 inch vane I don't think that would be to drastic of a change. I think you guys are right. Ill just leave well enough alone. Eleven fps wouldn't be worth the risk. I think ill stay with just shy of 380 total grains what ever the diff is from 2 inch vanes
06-19-2010, 08:50 PM
You've had a fair amount of good advice. Normally, for 3D most leave their arrows 1" longer than point of contact between arrow and rest at full draw.
If using standard 4" vanes, 2" Blazers would cut down weight. Blazers and like vanes, such as the NAP Twister, are said not to exceed 3 degrees of offset. I guess any more robs the arrow of down velocity, but I haven't found it to effect accuracy.
Depending on the bow the average gain in velocity is 1 fps per 3 grs of weight. The older rule regarding bows of 5 or more years old was 1 fps per 5 grs. of weight.
You don't have to "jump off the bridge." You could cut and fletch one arrow and see how things go. Cutting the arrow could improve spine back to the gained velocity, but this would minimal.
Competition wise, at 289 fps you're already broke the ASA speed limit and if your bow is one of those that might gain 2 fps per 3 grs of draw weight you end up over the NFAA speed limit of 300 fps (+3% for error - 309 fps). Doubtful, but you never known until you try.
Accuracy wise, over the past 10 years, I've found 275 to 284 fps to be outstanding and one of my bows is awfully accurate 295 fps, but I better be paying attention or I just miss faster.
06-20-2010, 05:28 AM
One thing to watch for, make sure your arrow is long enough that it clears the front of the shelf with a broadhead if you use a fall away rest that rises on the draw. Screwed up a few arrows not long ago from trying to get them as short as possible. Great for field points, can't use them for hunting though.
06-20-2010, 06:27 AM
I think there is no need to change anything in your arrows.
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