PDA

View Full Version : rest change, need help



J758
06-30-2010, 08:57 AM
I own a martinbone hunter and I had a rip cord fallaway put on it. So I have the nap 360 to but on my wifes bow. I would like to do it myself.or the both of us to try and do it. Don't wanna pay to take it to a tec. She has the hostage rest with the bow I don't like this rest and she does not either! I've only been into archery for eight months now. So could some one tell me what I need to do this myself and how? Thanks for any input!

alex
06-30-2010, 09:06 AM
Aren't these rests quite similar? Nevermind, you should just unsrew the old one, screw the new one and make a little vertical and horizontal adjustments :) Nothing complicated, but if you need to see how it's done you can check bowtuningtips.com (this is the second time i write about this site today, hope Martin won't get angry :) ).

Coop
06-30-2010, 09:10 AM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hzIBbDC3bE0&feature=related


Coop

Coop
06-30-2010, 09:25 AM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u0bMl-51Xgg&feature=related

Spiker
06-30-2010, 10:50 AM
If your bow is tuned and shooting good as it is - measure from a good point on the side of the riser to the center of your arrow (centershot) then measure up from the shelf to the top or bottom (whichever is easiest) of the arrow (height) If it's a drop away be sure to do this with it in the up position.
Then you can remove the old rest - bolt on the new rest and using your measurements adjust it to the same position. That should put things right back as they were or really close so final adjustments will be minimal.
Also it's a great idea to take a bunch of good photos of everything so if something is off - you can refer back.

SonnyThomas
06-30-2010, 03:49 PM
For center shot, left and right adjustment, and no aligning tool, I eye ball, align the bow string to the groove of the top cam or wheel. I then move the rest so the arrow aligns with the string aligned to the cam/wheel groove. For up and down, keeping your original nocking point, I adjust the rest so the arrow runs a bit down hill to the point end. I then would paper tune to get things more into the ball park.

I don't consider paper tuning the final step, but should allow descent to excellent accuracy out to 40 yards. I like French tuning when going for longer distances.

gibson 787
06-30-2010, 04:09 PM
An important point regarding the NAP 360 Capture rest is that you need to use arrows that have twistable nocks. Reason is that for optimal performance, these rests need to have the fletching carefully lined up on the arrow so that when it passes through the rest, there is no fletch contact. This is achieved by twisting the nock.

Also, the later version of the 360 has thinner brushes which are far superior to the older model. You can purchase the new brushes from NAP or some bow shops.

When set up properly, the 360 is a very good rest, particularly for hunting.

J758
06-30-2010, 04:17 PM
Thanks guys. I installed the rest. She hasn't shot it yet gonna tryit here in a half hour or so. I put a mason guage on the string and measured off the shelf on the old rest for verts with arrow on it and off the risere with my carpenter woodfolding rule. After that I put the arrow on with new rest using same nock point then plumed the string and then leveled the arrow on the rest which I only had to move it 1/32. I did take some ics which also helped. Now I know she will like the nap 360!!

J758
06-30-2010, 04:26 PM
I had it on my new bone hunter and I don't like it! I hunt a lot and I prefer the ripcord with capture. Cause I like to shoot a right helical. And I like to shoot 3d. Wish I had the money for two set ups! She had a hostage brush rest whitch I dilike and she does too. How ever when I was starting out the nap helped me focus on my end by always checking my flecthing. Everyone has been very helpful and thanks again!