View Full Version : Draw wieght adjustment
09-03-2010, 02:02 PM
Hi all, I'm new here.. just bought a Saber 2010 I guess it would be. I got a 45-60# bow and I don;t think it is set to it's max 60#. My question is can I just adjust the limbs to be tighter to yield more #'s or would that change the DL etc already set up?
Another question is I got a D-loop placed on my string from the bow shop, they seem to have removed the metal nocking points that were on there and placed the D-loop by itself. I was told that if it lets go it'll be a tough time trying to get the nocking point back in place etc. Is it standard for bow shops to only put a D-loop on the string by itself and not have any nocking point (little metal things) in place to keep it from slipping?
Also, haha sorry for all the questions, Should my kit have come with allen wrenches to adjust my sight? And cam adjustment plates? I did get some allen wrenches but they only fit the bow itself and maybe the rest.
Thanks for all the help! :)
09-03-2010, 05:57 PM
Yes, you can bottom out the limbs and get the listed maximum listed draw weight, plus or minus a tad. Caution, do not over tighten the limbs bolts. Have a feel for when the bolt bottoms out. Some prefer to back off the limb bolt a 1/4 turn just so they know they are not crushing the limb.
Basically, no, draw length is not effected to the degree that one would notice.
There are several methods of installing a loop. Initially, brass nocks are used by some so the knots of the loop don't creep apart, which can happen when enough pressure to tighten the knots of loop is applied and with loop pliers a lot pressure can be exerted. Once tight the nocks can be removed. Remember, weight at the center of the string slows down velocity.
Probably the purest manner of installing a loop is with tied string nocks. Here, the tied string nocks are on the inside of the loop knots. Also, the bottom tied string nock is usually spaced an additional .040" below the nocked arrow. This helps eliminated nock pinch. It is here that the tied string nocks remain and the loop can be changed without losing the nocking point.
As said, there are several methods of installing a loop. Should you want check out this link http://www.dudleyarchery.info/articles/biissue34.pdf
No, allen wrenches are not part of the package.
09-03-2010, 06:19 PM
Dido on evrything Jason said
With a couple of additions that maybe obvious but Ill mention it anyways. Changing your draw weight may affect the arrows flight and tuning of the bow. Of course your sights will need to be re-adjusted to match the faster flatter arrow flight. When changing your limb bolts keep track of how many turns you make so that you can apply the exact same number of turns on both top and bottom.
It is very common to only have the D-loop on the string. there are even some decent videos on YouTube showing how to install them, if you are curious.
I suggest you buy a Allen wrench set the loose ones always seem to disappear at the most inopportune times.
09-03-2010, 09:06 PM
I got a 45-60# bow and I don;t think it is set to it's max 60#. My question is can I just adjust the limbs to be tighter to yield more #'s or would that change the DL etc already set up?
Yes you can bottom the limbs. Just don't over tighten them. Won't change the draw length unless you have it at its minimum #. Even then it won't be much.
Is it standard for bow shops to only put a D-loop on the string by itself and not have any nocking point (little metal things) in place to keep it from slipping?
Some do and it shouldn't slip. Its ok just to have a d-loop by itself but I prefer to have tied on nocking points above and below the arrow. Just my preference.
I did get some allen wrenches but they only fit the bow itself and maybe the rest.
That all you get. I didn't get any allen keys with my sights or rest, a long time since I have. As b0w_bender has sugested, by an allen key set, good quality :)
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