View Full Version : sight clearance on TR1

09-30-2010, 07:33 AM
I just got my new firecat tr1. It feels good, a little stiffer draw than my moab but still smooth. I haven't scaled and set it to 70 pounds yet that may be why it feels stiff b/c the limbs are still cranked all the way in.

My problem is that to get it sighted in my sight has to be so low that my fletching is clipping the bottom of the sight b/c it's has to be bottomed out all the way to get the arrows to hit where my sight is pointed. I checked my arrow rest and it appears to be holding the arrow in the correct place on the riser shelf. Is the problem with my nock or the placement of my peep. I have a 31 draw so my string angle at full draw is pretty steep. Any suggestions? Thanks

09-30-2010, 07:45 AM
is everything level? if so then you dont want to move your nock because you want it to be in the same spot when it starts to when it stops. so it could be your peep is a little to high.

09-30-2010, 08:59 AM
I had similar problem when i changed sights. however my problem was my peep was to low. I had to raise my peep 1 inch and lower my anchor point slightly.

09-30-2010, 01:36 PM
Lets start by assuming your rest is mounted so that the arrow passes approximately through the rest mounting hole(s). Let's also assume that the arrow is approximately perpendicular to the string (square). Let's also assume that the bow is at least somewhat tuned so that the arrows fly well.

The problem is that your peep is too low. The reason your peep is too low is because you are anchoring too high. One reason you may be anchoring too high is because of the short axle to axle length of your bow and your long draw length.

Whatever, you need to move your peep up the string (probably about 1") and relocate your anchor. The bow is going to feel different, of course, but you'll just have to give your body and mind time to adjust also.

For what it's worth, this is just one of the many reasons a short A2A bow is not a very good choice for you long armed fellows. String angle gets more critical along with other aspects of shooting. Short bows may be easier to maneuver through brush and shoot from a treestand, but not so much that it's worth giving up potential accuracy and stability of a longer bow. Maybe some thoughts to ponder whith your next bow purchase.

Being a shorter guy at 5'8" with a draw around 27" and shooting compounds for decades I still remember shooting 48" to 50" compounds which were considered short for their day. Funny, but I can never recall having any problems toting it around or shooting from an elevated platform back 35+ years ago. Even today I prefer bows at least 36"--no less.

09-30-2010, 03:43 PM
I have to go with the boys saying the peep is too low. This is one my worst probems at the shop with sighting in. Checking the center of the peep to the top of the nock of the arrow. If you're 5" or less the peep is too low. Mine is 5 3/4 to 6" depending on type of release. However, all my bows are 38" ata or longer. So a short ata bow may be higher yet because of the sharper angle.
My two ways of anchor; 1 - index release, knuckle of hand of index finger in the hollow at the back of my jaw, not above, but back of. 2 - Thumb or hinger release, split knuckles of first and second fingers on the lower jaw line or back of the jaw corner.

09-30-2010, 04:12 PM
Lol yeah sorry I mixed up my words I meant the peep needs go to up. Sorry everybody :o

09-30-2010, 08:51 PM
No need to say sorry mate, it's very easy to get things mixed up. :)

Yep, as others have said the peep needs to go up but its not always an easy thing to do. Can be difficult to use an 'unatural' anchor but it can be done as bfisher said. Thumb releases naturally put your anchor lower than a wrist release but I'm not big on them.

I still have to laugh bfisher, when ppl think that 36" ATA is a long bow lol! :D

10-01-2010, 07:03 AM
I went to a buddies house last night and checked it with a bow square. Loop seemed to be a hair over 1/4" high with my arrow centered on my front berger hole. Should I move the loop? I think my manual said 1/8 to 1/4" high was normal, but my arrows do seem to be pointed down quite a bit. The guy at the shop that set it up for me had some short little arrow that he eye-balled a 90 with.

Same arrows I was using for my nearly identically spec'ed MOAB, they papered and shot well out of that bow. Would prefer not to go to a much longer ATA b/c I hunt out of an enclosed blind quite a bit. Maybe a good reason for a casper blind though. I'll try sliding the peep and a lower anchor.

10-01-2010, 07:29 AM
When you say the loop is 1/4" high are you implying that this is to the inside of the top knot? If so this is very common. Athough it's good to start with the inside of the bottom knot about level with the rest, it's during a tuning process (paper or other) where you find you may have to move it up a little or lower the rest a little which is usually easier to do these days with different rests.

Everybody thinks the arrow has to be dead level with the rest, but this isn't always true. Look at it this way. The string track in the cam is not in the center of the bow, but offset to the left (RH bow). The rest is not centered vertically either, but slightly high, as it needs to be. The grip is below center. We humans induce some torque to the bow when shooting, no matter how good we are. There are slight differences in limbs, however small the difference might be.

So why would people think that everything has to be exactly square or centered or precisely placed on a bow. Yes, you start at these points but move things where they need to be to compensate for all the little nuances and differences involved. Even bows of the same make and model can be just slightly different.

That's just like me suggesting raising your peep about an inch. It's not written in stone. You just have to move it to a point that you get your desired results---------Then measure it's location along with everything else you can measure. All for future reference in case the bow goes out of tune or you change string and cables. It gives you a starting place to check the tune or retune if necessary.