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Mooseman
10-15-2010, 06:14 PM
Hello everyone. This is my first post and I'm glad to be here. I hope you don't mind helping me. I have a 09 firehawk that I just reciently had some warrenty work done to. I had the limbs, cams, and string set replaced and the new roto cup upgraded to the 2010 stuff. Gotta love joel at customer service:D. The 2009 axle to axle was 29.75". and the 2010 axle to axle is 30". When I recieved my bow back from the pro shop It had an axle to axle of 29.5" with the new stuff on it. What should the axle to axle length be. The sticker on the new limbs has the 2009 string and cable lengths on it. Will the strings stretch to get the 29.75"?
Another problem that I am having is the tiller measurement. If I adjust the limb bolts the same the tiller measurement are out 1/4" from top to bottom. If I adjust the tiller the equal amount, the bottom limb bolt is out 1.5 turns more than the top. How do I fix this?
Sorry for all the questions on the first post. I just want to get this thing dialed in for hunting next week.

Mooseman
10-16-2010, 05:08 AM
I have been doing a ton of reading on bow tuning. Can someone please tell me if I am correct.
To get a bow into spec of the manufacturers measurement, how is it done. I read some where to start with getting the string and cables as close to spec as possible. Remove the string and cables and stretch them out with a 100# weight on them and add or remove twists until they are the correct measurement then reinstal them. Once this is done Will I have to set the rest of the measurements with the limb bolt bottomed out.
To set the AtoA, is this done by adding or removing twists in just the string and not the cables. And then to time the cams add or sutract twists in just the cables. If one cam needs to rotate a bit more for the timing just add twists to the cable that attaches to that cam until it is equal with the other cam, or vise versa. Sorry for all the question I just like to know how to take care of my own stuff.
I hope this makes sence. This is just what I picked up from reading a whole wack of posts and I just want to know if I understand correctly

Montalaar
10-16-2010, 05:31 AM
Hey Mooseman, do you have an Account at Archerytalk.com?

I think there is a user with this nick, too...

Regarding AtA:
Untwist String and cables to get at least to an AtA for 29.75". Those bows do not like an AtA that is shorter than it should be.

Regarding Tiller:
How do you measure tiller? Do not measure from the string as the Cams are different in size. Take a string or somethign similar and make a line from axle to axle. No measure the Tiller. It is okay to turn one limb bolt somewhat out to get a zero tiller. But it is not necessary to get the tiller to 0. It is just something to start with.

Regarding Cam tuning:
Look at this post from Spiker. I think it is great:
http://www.martinarchery.com/mtechforum/showpost.php?p=25155&postcount=5

Mooseman
10-16-2010, 07:01 AM
Montalaar
I do have an account on AT but thats not my user name there, but It's my user name on bowcountry.com.
Thanks for the info. And yes I was measuring the tiller from the string. I will do it the way that you explained.
Wow that link is a bit confusing!

RobD
10-16-2010, 08:35 AM
I have a 2009 Firehawk ,with 09 limbs. My ATA has been 29 1/2 And spec are suppose to be 29.75 My brace height and tiller are set to specs. . ATA Might not be at specs.But it shoots better to me that way . I shoot at least 50 shots a day, 6 days a week at the least. My bow is tuned right now better then it s ever be. Broadheads hit same place as my Field points. Thats should say it all. Here a link to adjusting your cam to Opt settings for Cat Cams. Hope it helps. http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=803550&pagenumber=

RobD
10-16-2010, 09:04 AM
2009 FireHawk 29.75. The 2010 FireHawks ATA 30. Don't know why it changed, Maybe limbs are longer or roto Cups sit higher.Don't know why they changed it. But that might be something to check into. Since your limbs are 2010. Don't think a 1/4 inch on ATA will make alot of differance. Thats a 1/8 out on each limb. But if its 30 thats a half inch out That might be much. Not sure, look into it. Don't want to much extra stress on the limbs.

Destroyer
10-16-2010, 05:21 PM
Remove the string and cables and stretch them out with a 100# weight on them and add or remove twists until they are the correct measurement then reinstal them.

Nope. Just twist until the real world specs (draw weight, draw length & brace height) are correct or close to it.


But it is not necessary to get the tiller to 0.

Absolutely correct. The only time I mess with the tiller is if there is a tuning issue. :)

Mooseman
10-17-2010, 07:29 PM
Well I played around with my bow last night and tried the tiller measurement method that Montalaar sugested and the tiller was right on. I never took into consideration about the different cams. As far as the brace height it is suposed to be 7" and it is 6 7/8". Is this an issue or is it close enough not to worry about. The AtoA is suposed to be 29 3/4" and it is 29 9/16", which is 3/16" short of what it is suposed to be. I removes twists from both cables and string but I could not get it to change. I only removed 2 twists on each, should I try some more or just leave it like that. The timing looks good also. I was going to try shooting it today and see where it is at but I didn't have a chance.
Should I keep trying to get it to spec by removing twists in the cables and string or will this do.
BTW thanks for all the help guys. I am 4 hours to the nearest proshop so I need to learn how to do this stuff myself.

copterdoc
10-17-2010, 07:46 PM
On a parallel limb bow, like the Firehawk, the tiller needs to be WAY off, for it to show up with the old-fashioned method of string-to-riser.

Instead, I measure from the axle, to the opposite limb face, right next to the limb bolt.

I would absolutely not worry about 1/2" of ATA.

You DO need to make sure that your DL, measures what it is supposed to measure, with your particular module, or setting.

The ATA and BH aren't the important measurements. The draw weight and draw length, are what really matter. If they are off, your cam(s) is/are not correctly timed.

Mooseman
10-17-2010, 08:13 PM
The bow is set up for 29" DL. How do I measure it on the bow. If it matters, I have drawn the bow (with an arrow, d loop, release) and it fits perfect and feels the most comftorable it has ever fealt. Is this a good indication or does it have to be measured. I haven't had a chance to shoot it yet but I will tomorrow.

copterdoc
10-18-2010, 06:23 AM
Yes! It needs to be measured!

So does your draw weight.

AMO draw length, is measured from the nock point, to the throat of the grip, + 1.75".

Most bows have the front of the arrow shelf exactly 1.75" ahead of the throat, for this reason.

bfisher
10-18-2010, 09:21 AM
The bow is set up for 29" DL. How do I measure it on the bow. If it matters, I have drawn the bow (with an arrow, d loop, release) and it fits perfect and feels the most comftorable it has ever fealt. Is this a good indication or does it have to be measured. I haven't had a chance to shoot it yet but I will tomorrow.

It doesn't have to be measured to make sure it's 29". It only needs to be measured so you know what it is incase you'd change the rigging or make some other adjustment to the bow. Another thing you can do is take a pencil and draw two lines on the left side of the cam, one on each side of the limb fork. This will give you a visible indication of the cam orientation so you'll be able to see if the string/cable stretches or where to set the cam if you change either the string or cable in the future.

If the bow feels good where it's at then don't worry about tweaking the draw length to a set number. Afterall, it's only a number. Fitting the bow to your personal settings is part of what tuning is all about. It doesn't matter what the bow draws, just so it fits you.

Mooseman
10-18-2010, 03:39 PM
I found this link on the cat cam timing. I followed these instructions and beleive it or not it put my bow into spec. I haven't had time to shoot it yet(tomorrow) but is a bit smoother to draw. I never had a draw stop on it but I whipped one up on the lathe and I like the feel of the bow with it. I should have had one before this. I will keep you posted as to how things turn out.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=626601

FireHawk Owner
10-19-2010, 05:57 AM
I found this link on the cat cam timing. I followed these instructions and beleive it or not it put my bow into spec. I haven't had time to shoot it yet(tomorrow) but is a bit smoother to draw. I never had a draw stop on it but I whipped one up on the lathe and I like the feel of the bow with it. I should have had one before this. I will keep you posted as to how things turn out.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=626601 Thats the link I used to learn how to get the cams adjusted.Thats a Great Thread. I picked up 9 FPS with it adjusted like that. The second set of limbs I received, I didn't adjust my cams like that. Was scared it was the reason for my first breakage. But Obliviously not. :rolleyes: