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cridertj
01-17-2011, 04:12 PM
I have a warthog that i sent to martin back in the spring for some tuning they did a pretty god job it was a lot better then it was in shooting 312 with 385 grain arrow at 70lbs with 29" draw.still i think a little slow but OK.now after deer season I shot it through the crono and was only getting 285-290.with same set up .I then turned it down to 60lbs and a 300grain arrow and am still only getting 300 out of it which i may be wrong but still sounds slow to me.I called Joel and all he could tell me is i need to make sure the cams are perfectly timed buy letting some one pull it back or a draw board. my dealer has looked at it and said that my cables are going across my mods in the same place by looking at the screw holes so it should be alright. I have now problems with them and trust them to do anything.but am wondering if any one has pics of what they should look like at full draw or at rest. also my string is bare except for a kisser,D-loop,and that's it.

Hutch~n~Son Archery
01-17-2011, 04:27 PM
I have a warthog that i sent to martin back in the spring for some tuning they did a pretty god job it was a lot better then it was in shooting 312 with 385 grain arrow at 70lbs with 29" draw.still i think a little slow but OK.now after deer season I shot it through the crono and was only getting 285-290.with same set up .I then turned it down to 60lbs and a 300grain arrow and am still only getting 300 out of it which i may be wrong but still sounds slow to me.I called Joel and all he could tell me is i need to make sure the cams are perfectly timed buy letting some one pull it back or a draw board. my dealer has looked at it and said that my cables are going across my mods in the same place by looking at the screw holes so it should be alright. I have now problems with them and trust them to do anything.but am wondering if any one has pics of what they should look like at full draw or at rest. also my string is bare except for a kisser,D-loop,and that's it.

Are the original string and cables still on it? If you have a lot of shots on them, they will have stretched . This will put the cams in a different location. Even if they are still in sync. Also taking pounds of the limbs will change the position as well. Most mark the cams to keep the same shooting position. The string length and cable length need to be the proper length.


Hutch

cridertj
01-17-2011, 05:22 PM
they are not the original strings but the same ones that were on it whene martin had it

Hutch~n~Son Archery
01-17-2011, 05:28 PM
They need to be twisted or untwisted to the original length. If they are not the cams can be to far forward or backwards. Throwing the speed off. Once you get it back into to sync, I recommend to mark the cams to make sure you know where the sweet spot is.

Hutch

archerx7
01-17-2011, 05:34 PM
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=626601&highlight=cat+cam+tuning
Here is a pretty good link for tuning the Cat Cams, quite a bit of good info and tips.

Hutch~n~Son Archery
01-17-2011, 05:37 PM
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=626601&highlight=cat+cam+tuning
Here is a pretty good link for tuning the Cat Cams, quite a bit of good info and tips.

Thanks I forgot about that link. Thanks for watching my back!

Hutch

Spiker
01-17-2011, 05:45 PM
As said, the cables and string should be measured and adjusted to the correct lengths.
Also - if I read your post right, the shop looked at the cams and how the cables cross them. How they look at rest does not mean that they are in time.
The bow needs to be held at full draw and you need to make sure that the cables are coming off both the modules at the exact same point.
Here is a link to a whole bunch of info and pics about the CAT cams:
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=626601&page=5&highlight=Martin+Cat+cams+optimum+settings+advice+ settings

Spiker
01-17-2011, 05:46 PM
Okay - way slow on the draw...

copterdoc
01-17-2011, 05:52 PM
Measure your draw length and draw weight.

If they really are, what you think they are, remove the string stop (STS).

The STS negates the benefit of the speed nocks. You are better off without one or the other.

The C.A.T. cams only make IBO if you set the mod higher than the DL it is "supposed" to be, and cut the DL down by adjusting the draw stop and reducing the valley and let-off below 65%.

That's just the way they are. They aren't Martin's most efficient cam.

ElkSlayer
01-17-2011, 05:55 PM
lol at least you tried spiker :D lol

whman
01-18-2011, 05:44 AM
Hey copterdoc,
If that is true, then what is the correct IBO for the Warthog? Would seem to be slower than 350 fps. Is it normal proceedure to adjust a bow outside of normal set up in order to get a higher IBO speed? Just asking because it sure can be confusing.

copterdoc
01-18-2011, 10:19 AM
It'll do 340 at 80% let-off.

You just have to take off the STS, and let the speed nocks do their thing.

The whole idea behind that "optimum setting" thread, is to retard the cams enough, that you can set the modules to a shorter DL setting than #5.

If you get past the #4 module setting, you get into the "hump", at the end of the draw cycle.

cridertj
01-23-2011, 02:01 PM
thanks guys for all the info i took today to check all my string lengths and ata also went to the 29.5 setting from the 29 setting and shortened my stop so there was not let off and still no better. i was still only getting about 300 with my 300 grain arrows at 60 lbs. i guess i will have to spend the money to ship back to martin if they will do it again i just hate to spend the shipping to do it again but i will mark the cams good this time.

cridertj
01-23-2011, 02:02 PM
am i expecting to much to be looking for more speed?

archerx7
01-23-2011, 02:58 PM
am i expecting to much to be looking for more speed?

No your not expecting too much, actually at 29/60 with a 300gr arrow you should be pulling about 320+/- with a loaded string, IF everything is setup correctly.

copterdoc
01-23-2011, 02:59 PM
At 29" of DL, with no let-off, you were only getting 300 F.P.S. with a 300 grain arrow, at 60#?

Take the STS OFF of the bow, and see what happens.

cridertj
01-23-2011, 03:21 PM
that's what i was thinking but cant seam to get there, i don't know but it may be the new limbs they put on them in early 2010 slowing things up i don't know? i have tried to remove the sts and have messed the end of it up with a pair of vice grips and a hammer and cant get it freed up , all set screws removed and had pro shop try it with no luck .love the bow but have had no luck in performance area and really frustrated with it . i mean martin didn't Even get it past 311 when i sent it to them .and sic then i have had really bad paper tunes to with bad left tears when paper tuning with different rest and different people trying it. I am thinking about getting a rytera nemeses next month for a target bow but am just a little leery of it. right now i wish i could just start with a new warthog that hasn't gave me as much trouble and rebuild my confidence but if i get the rytera that will be all i will be able to do for the next year or so.

copterdoc
01-23-2011, 05:39 PM
Have you actually measured your bow's brace height, draw weight, draw length and your arrow weight?

DON'T GUESS, OR BELIEVE ANYTHING FROM THE SPECS/CHARTS!

Measure those things. Make sure they are all what you think they are.

If you can't remove the STS, rotate it out of the way, so that the string doesn't hit it.

cridertj
01-24-2011, 01:25 AM
yes i went through and took string and cables off remeasured them re installed and checked brace and ata and still same results the sts is stuck right were it is me and pro shop has tried it move it and adjust it but just messing it up doing it .

copterdoc
01-24-2011, 02:51 AM
yes i went through and took string and cables off remeasured them re installed and checked brace and ata and still same results the sts is stuck right were it is me and pro shop has tried it move it and adjust it but just messing it up doing it .

I don't care about the ATA. You need to MEASURE the draw weight and draw length, as well as the brace height.

The ATA barely matters.

archerx7
01-24-2011, 05:05 AM
yes i went through and took string and cables off remeasured them re installed and checked brace and ata and still same results the sts is stuck right were it is me and pro shop has tried it move it and adjust it but just messing it up doing it .

I had a couple WH's go thru the shop but I don't remember how the stabilizer/sts holes lined up. On some of the Martin/Ryteras the holes are directly in line and drilled all the way through.
I've ran into a few where the sts rod was stuck in place, what happens is when the set screws are tighted down it causes a slight deformation,burr on the rod. If the holes go all the way thru and are inline, you can insert a drift/punch from the stab side and tape it thru with a hammer. I've had to do this on a couple of them in order to get them out. Be carefull not to damage the stab threads while doing this.
Once the sts rod is out, use a fine emery cloth/sandpaper and smooth the burrs down. You may also want to take a small fine round file and cleanup the sts hole as I've seen a few where the film dip had gotten inside the hole and made for a pretty tight fit. Be patient when trying to remove the rod, it will take some time to get it out.

cridertj
01-24-2011, 07:39 AM
I don't care about the ATA. You need to MEASURE the draw weight and draw length, as well as the brace height.

The ATA barely matters.

yes my scale says it is at 60 lbs pro shop says 58.8 digital and my draw mods are set right now on # 6 which correct me if i am wrong is 29.5 and i have went from full string stop setting to about half way up the stop slid with no change also checked brace height at right on 6 1/4 the string and cable lengths were also suggested so that's why i posted that info to.

copterdoc
01-24-2011, 07:50 AM
....my draw mods are set right now on # 6 which correct me if i am wrong is 29.5...
Measure it.