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View Full Version : Educate me on Hybrix cams!



bbjavelina
02-19-2011, 12:22 PM
My Nemisis is already 5 days old and shooting lights out. I've twisted until I've got the cams synched, but I figure that's only a starting point. Brace is 1/4" high. Seems to me that on a parallel limb bow, there's not much you can do about that. Am I wrong?

What I would like to know more about is what is a good starting point for the cams at brace. I don't see any really good indicators or marks to use as a reference.

Tell me what you've learned. I've only got 180 days to get it perfect!

martin hunter
02-19-2011, 01:17 PM
Here you go, try this link.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TiQQOGXNzL8

archerx7
02-19-2011, 02:41 PM
The 2 most important things to do are to get the strings set to factory specs, then make sure the cams are timed. The AtA and brace heights are appox specs only.

bbjavelina
02-20-2011, 05:45 AM
Thanks guys!

bowgramp59
02-20-2011, 03:56 PM
i set my strings and cables to factory specks under 90 lbs. of tention, then the brace and ata are usually on the money.

bbjavelina
02-21-2011, 12:54 PM
I think I've got it now, and truly appreciate the help.

bbjavelina
02-21-2011, 04:09 PM
Here you go, try this link.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TiQQOGXNzL8

Maybe I should sober up and watch it again! I'm thinking I know, but what was the point in marking the modules 1/2" from the end? Should that be the tangent point at full draw?

MLN1963
02-21-2011, 06:49 PM
i set my strings and cables to factory specks under 90 lbs. of tention, then the brace and ata are usually on the money.

How do you check them under tension?

archerx7
02-22-2011, 03:43 AM
Maybe I should sober up and watch it again! I'm thinking I know, but what was the point in marking the modules 1/2" from the end? Should that be the tangent point at full draw?

The Hybrix/Cat/Nitro cams don't come from the factory with timing marks, you have to put your own on the cams and that point on the mods seems to be the best location.
You need to be very precise when doing this, I always use calipers when making the marks.

bbjavelina
03-02-2011, 02:19 PM
Thanks to each of you.

MLN1963
03-02-2011, 02:36 PM
The Hybrix/Cat/Nitro cams don't come from the factory with timing marks, you have to put your own on the cams and that point on the mods seems to be the best location.
You need to be very precise when doing this, I always use calipers when making the marks.

This has me baffled. Why wouldn't Martin put some timing marks on the cams. Almost all the other manufactures that I have looked at do that for the owner or shop.

copterdoc
03-02-2011, 02:39 PM
Measure the draw length. It's the most important measurement of all of them.

You can change brace height by advancing or retarding the cams. You can also change draw weight and draw length.

bfisher
03-02-2011, 05:47 PM
This has me baffled. Why wouldn't Martin put some timing marks on the cams. Almost all the other manufactures that I have looked at do that for the owner or shop.

Here is my thoughts on timing marks on the cam. These are there to show the approximate cam position where the bow performs its' best and gives the most vertically level nock travel.

The reason I don't think they are necessary is that if a person is so anal about things then twisting the cable or strings is necessary to tweak the draw length for the most proper fit. Making such an adjustment will more than likely alter the position of the cam. In my estimation this is much more important than a few fps of performance, and what little bit of nock travel it may cause can easily be compensated for during tuning.

How many people do you know or hear of that know how fast their bow shoots? Conversely how many people do you know that know to the last
1/8" what the draw length of their bow is?