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Turkeyflacx2
03-05-2011, 03:58 PM
Ok so I just got my new to me Mystic with the FUrious X system. I dont have a clue what year it is nor did the seller(second hand to him?). Is there a way to tell? I tried to download the maual from Martin but its no longer available. Now for my list of questions:

1: How do I adjust the draw length? I see various holes(7) which do I move the screw to?

2: Whats the specs? Martins website shows multiple specs depending on year. Right now Im at 39 3/4" ATA and 7 9/16 from string to deepest part of grip.

3: Its supposed to max at #55 but maxs at #52. If my ATA is off this would effect my draw weight right?

4: How do I adjust the four different draw stops to get them to hit the string at the same time. My top left(when holding bow like shooting) is hitting a tad before the top right.
I was told that the strings are new and they definitly look it.(Winners choice)
Sorry for the long post Im just really anxious to get this sweet bow shooting.

cyclepath
03-05-2011, 04:25 PM
Welcome; I know nothing about the specs on your bow, you'll have to wait for one of the experts to come on board for that. As far as your draw weight goes it's pretty close to where it should be. If it's an older bow (unknown year ) and has older string and cables on it they have probably stretched some which could be the reason your short a couple #.

bfisher
03-05-2011, 05:04 PM
The specs aren't right on your bow. If you look at the 2008 catalog (on-line) you'll find the Mystic on page 18. If the bow has a sticker on the bottom limb the first two #'s of the erial number indicate the year of manufacture.

The a2a of the bow should be 40" and the brace height should be 7 1/4".
Tis is just an educated guess at this point but I'll bet the string is either twisted uo or just short by maybe 1/2". This would account for all the symptoms you are encountering.

As for the one cable hitting before the other it might be that the cables need tweaked. You don't adjust the stops, as you are calling them. I think you're referring to the cam modules. They are used to set draw length. However, it's possibly that if one cable is slightly longer than the other the cables might not hit the flat part of the module at the same time. If this is the case then you should be able to see some cam lean.

Now I'll quit and defer to the real "X" gurus. They would be Scepterman30 and Copterdoc. Let's see if they are on the ball.

Turkeyflacx2
03-05-2011, 05:34 PM
OK now Im really confused. I just got off the phone with a guy from AT that had a Mystic and he said go by the '09 specs of 40.25. He was very helpful in explaining some tuning on it though. I now know that its an '08.

ElkSlayer
03-05-2011, 07:01 PM
some of the bow spec charts were a mis print... trust Barry :cool: and this forum.. they wont give bad info :D

gravedigger
03-05-2011, 07:23 PM
Elkslayer is spot on.if you need martin facts and info trust in this forum.i have learnd more her then i would anyware else.these guys will get you on the right path:D.i my self would be lost with out the help of everyone on here.

Turkeyflacx2
03-05-2011, 08:44 PM
Excuse my ignorance guys this is only my second modern bow. Im used to the ease of tuning my Guardian. Im just afraid of screwing it up so bad it will shoot around corners. It looks as though it has allen screws to lock the limbs on the side of the riser for weight adjustment. Not sure what you call em. How much do I loosen them to adjust the draw? Or can I just a turn away like my Bowtech?

gravedigger
03-05-2011, 09:01 PM
to adjust your draw weight you will turn the limb bolt on the top and bottom of your limb.per 1 complet turn gives you 3 pounds.and vice versa.rember to keep your turn or turns even.make a mark on the limb bolt so you know when you have made a complet turn.do not tightin all the way down.as in completly snug.you want to see a bit of light inbetween the riser and limb

Turkeyflacx2
03-06-2011, 08:13 AM
BFisher your right my string does look twisted up quite a bit compared to all of the cables. My question is should I just start from scratch and untwist everything or can I just untwist the string? Do I have to pull the axle to get the string off the post or are you able to finangle it off through the hole in the mods? If I just untwist the string wouldnt I have to untwist the cables a bit so theres proper tension on the string?

elkslayer4x5
03-06-2011, 08:49 AM
You are aware that you will NOT need a bow press to remove your string and cables, right? Just back the limb bolts out until you can see light thru the barrel nut in the riser, at that point you'll be able to remove string and cables. Just making sure that you knew that. :)

Turkeyflacx2
03-06-2011, 09:07 AM
Yup Elkslayer I was aware of that. Its one of the reasons I bought it. My other bow doesnt need a press either. Im amazed at what a work of art this thing is.Flawless!

Turkeyflacx2
03-06-2011, 09:57 AM
One more question for now. I just noticed when backing out the limb bolts that I only have the really wide axles on the top and not the bottom. Is that right?

bfisher
03-06-2011, 10:11 AM
BFisher your right my string does look twisted up quite a bit compared to all of the cables. My question is should I just start from scratch and untwist everything or can I just untwist the string? Do I have to pull the axle to get the string off the post or are you able to finangle it off through the hole in the mods? If I just untwist the string wouldnt I have to untwist the cables a bit so theres proper tension on the string?

For now I would just take some twists out of the string and see what happens. When the cables are left along and the string is twisted it does a few things. It shortens the draw length and it decreases the draw weight range of the bow. It also shortens the a2a and raises the brace height. So untwisting the string should do the opposite.

Something else you can do is measure the a2a on both sides of the limbs. They should be exactly the same if the cables are twisted evenly.

elkslayer4x5
03-06-2011, 01:57 PM
One more question for now. I just noticed when backing out the limb bolts that I only have the really wide axles on the top and not the bottom. Is that right?

MIne are the oppisite, wide axle on bottom. The idea behind the one wide axle is to seperate the cables where they meet, reducing wear and tear. What it does do is you give more vibrating cables, Keeping the cables well waxed is a better answer, quieter. :cool:

Turkeyflacx2
03-06-2011, 03:00 PM
MIne are the oppisite, wide axle on bottom. The idea behind the one wide axle is to seperate the cables where they meet, reducing wear and tear. What it does do is you give more vibrating cables, Keeping the cables well waxed is a better answer, quieter. :cool:

Is there a problem with mine being on top,should I change it? I untwisted my string a bunch and now am at 39 15/16"ATA. My brace is at 7 1/2". Untwisting the string definitly helped the ATA but the brace is still long which is weird. You would think since my ATA is only a 1/16 off then my brace would be the same(at least thats my thinking). My weight actually went down one pound to a #51max on a #55 bow.