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View Full Version : Why Do limb Bolts Back out?



MLN1963
03-31-2011, 03:05 PM
I have noticed on my bow that the limb bolts back out an 1/8 to a 1/4 turn in as little as 20 shots. I have never let them go any further so I don't know just how far they would go. I have the bolts backed off 5 turns to condition my muscles to shooting and wonder if this has something to do with it?

martinbowhunter
03-31-2011, 03:10 PM
I think five turn's is to much to have them backed out. I'm purty sure your not supposed to back them out more than 4 turn's if your still planning on shooting them. What limb's do you have 45-60- 55-70? Also, do you know what poundage your shooting at the moment?

cjchasman
03-31-2011, 03:16 PM
I have noticed on my bow that the limb bolts back out an 1/8 to a 1/4 turn in as little as 20 shots. I have never let them go any further so I don't know just how far they would go. I have the bolts backed off 5 turns to condition my muscles to shooting and wonder if this has something to do with it?

Have you checked the gap between the limb and riser w/ a feeler gauge. I was wondering if it is all limb bolt movement or is the facing washer rotating also with the rotor cup limb support in close proximity could you be getting a teeter-totter effect??? (due to the 5 turn back off)...I'm no pro but was just wondering. That type of vibration might back out the bolt.

martinbowhunter
03-31-2011, 03:24 PM
I'm thinking you should go one full turn in on the limb bolt's minimum. I'f you will be able to pull it back. Try it out. I think this will solve your problem. And yes, check to make sure it's not just the washer, as the poster above me mentioned. So put a mark on the lims also. Do you have a bow scale?

Hutch~n~Son Archery
03-31-2011, 03:25 PM
I don't believe the limb bolts are backing out. I believe the outer washer is spinning. Do to the same reasons mentioned above. The limb bolts can be out 5 turns but it would be better for them to be out only 4 turns, putting more pressure on the bolt and limb washer.

Hutch:cool:

MLN1963
03-31-2011, 03:52 PM
I have had it at 4 turns out and it did it there too. I will mark the washer to limb and see what that shows. The washer doesn't turn when rotating the bolt but who knows?

The limbs are 45-60#

Hutch~n~Son Archery
03-31-2011, 03:55 PM
I have had it at 4 turns out and it did it there too. I will mark the washer to limb and see what that shows. The washer doesn't turn when rotating the bolt but who knows?

The limbs are 45-60#
Line up the white dots then put a piece of scotch tape over both the washer and limb bolt. Then shoot for awhile. Then you will see if it is the washer.

Hutch:cool:

Ehunter
03-31-2011, 04:21 PM
I think the guys are on the right track. One thing I do, after my bolts are set where I want them, I always put a mark on the bolt head in line with the split in the limbs. Basically, bottom dead center on the top bolt, top dead center on the bottom bolt. That way, I always have a mark regardless of what happens to the washers, etc.

gravedigger
03-31-2011, 04:30 PM
looks like limb bolt and washer are moving around.put it in rvn draw weight then go no less then 3 or 4 turns.might be that you should get differt limbs for now if you are wantin to train your arms for more weight,that way you can max out the limbe and dont have to worrie.

bfisher
03-31-2011, 05:56 PM
I'm going to let all you guys in on a little secret. Get you a good little supply of nylon or brass tipped set screws to fit in the side of thre barrel nuts. Use them to lock the limb bolts in place once you adjust them. Then there is no need to put any marks on the limb bolts of bezels (washers).

Now as to the issue of backing the limbs too much. I don't recommend this for long term shooting, but I have shot a 55# Martin bow backed off to 27# while trying to recover from a muscle loss issue. This was 3 years ago. I don't remember just how many turns that was but It was about 8 turns.

I happen to be blessed right now with a Rytera Nemisis that requires 5 turns to reduce peak weight by 10#. Going by this I have to assume that to get the 15# range set to it's minimum I'd have to take a total of 7 1/2 turns off. Not that I intend to, but knowing that Martin usually shows a 3# difference per turn this one baffles me a bit. Also knowing that I can turn the limb bolts out about 12 turns and they are still in one side of the barrel nut I would feel quite safe shooting it with a mere 5 turns off.

And please note that I don't advocate backing limb bolts out more than 5 turns for an extended period of time, but for short term or spedcial conditions I don't think it would hurt.

MLN1963
03-31-2011, 06:51 PM
Here is what I did while Barry was typing. LOL

This should give me all the info I need.

MLN1963
04-01-2011, 06:31 AM
I'm going to let all you guys in on a little secret. Get you a good little supply of nylon or brass tipped set screws to fit in the side of thre barrel nuts. Use them to lock the limb bolts in place once you adjust them. Then there is no need to put any marks on the limb bolts of bezels (washers).

Barry

I'm going to pull a Hutch here, do you have any pictures? :cool: I don't grasp this coming from the side?

Thanks
Mark

bfisher
04-01-2011, 07:30 AM
OK, as per request here are the pics. The one of the set screw is a little out of focus but notice the brass end which is to keep from messing up the bolt threads. The ones I have are about 7/16" long, but even 1/4" would be fine. The thread size is 1/4-20. I have mine screwed in on the right side where quiver bolts would mount, but they can go on either side. In other words, they fit right in the end of the barrel nut.

MLN1963
04-01-2011, 07:40 AM
Barry

Thanks for the pictures. I hadn't noticed that the barrel nuts are threaded! I wasn't where I could at at my bow until just now and took a look. Brilliant!

I already used white out so that will tell me what is moving until I can find these set-screws. I'll have to try Ace hardware and see if they have anything like that. Are they used for anything in particular? Thanks for giving the size too!

bfisher
04-01-2011, 08:06 AM
They're used for any application such as this where you need a lock-down without mashing the threads of the main bolt. So nothing in particular that I'm aware of. I had these in a Golden Eagle repair kit from 1998. If I were buying any I would get them with nylon tips and only 1/4" long. As you can see these stick out a little so shorter would be closer to a flush fit. Nice thing about them is that it negates the need to put any marks on the bow. Believe me, the limb bolts aren't going to vibrate out with them in place.

MLN1963
04-01-2011, 08:10 AM
Again, thanks! That is such an effective method of capturing the bolt and convenient too. Well, if I can find those bolts. I'm sure someone will have them but I might have to order a truck full. LOL

Hutch~n~Son Archery
04-01-2011, 11:45 AM
Well we still learn something new every day. Thanks Barry for the info.

Hutch:cool:

MLN1963
04-01-2011, 05:49 PM
The verdict is in. The proof is irrefutable. Okay, I have a solid answer based on fact. :cool:

The limb bolts are turning and it isn't the washers/bezels. The white out doesn't lie. The interesting thing is I haven't even shot the bow. This is just 20-30 cycles of the bow trying to get my peep to rotate into position correctly and changing the draw length. I will be trying to find some set screws like Barry is using.

Sorry for the crappy pictures. My cell phone camera takes great shots only when it wants to.

martinbowhunter
04-01-2011, 05:59 PM
Wow! Glad to know you figured out what was actually spinning. And thank's to Barry you have a solution.

MLN1963
05-04-2011, 01:13 PM
Update: I bought two kinds of soft set screws, cupped brass and nylon tipped steel. The brass seem to work better IMO. Both have to be cranked down quite hard to stop the limb bolts from backing out but they do work. The nylon tipped part is only 3/16" deep and I don't know if that is enough. One got tore up good and the other was just okay when I took them out. I had to remove them so the folks at Martin wouldn't curse me when they work on my bow. Maybe I should have left them in there for a hint? :confused:

Has anyone else had their bolts move on them? If I hadn't marked them I would have never known.

bfisher
05-04-2011, 04:36 PM
You don't want to send them to Martin with your bow. Chances are pretty good that you won't get them back, but I can understand you wanting to send them a message. Glad you played guinea pig and got both brass and nylon. Now we know that nylon doesn't work as well. And just to help everybody out just where did you find them and what was the approx cost?

I'm lucky I guess. Have a Fastenal store about two miles from my house. 20 or so archery clubs within 35 miles---3D season is going to start soon. Two good proshops within 35 miles---Kinseys and Lancaster. No floods. No hurricanes or tornadoes. No wildfires, earthquakes, or mudslides. What's not to like about this area?

Arrow Splitter
05-04-2011, 04:39 PM
Two good proshops within 35 miles---Kinseys and Lancaster. No floods. No hurricanes or tornadoes. No wildfires, earthquakes, or mudslides. What's not to like about this area?
Probably the long winters, even though I don't mind snow.:D

bfisher
05-05-2011, 03:48 AM
Probably the long winters, even though I don't mind snow.:D

You got me on that one. I do get tired of the drab gray for during the winter months. I can deal with the snow. It's not as bad as what Sonny had this past winter.

MLN1963
05-05-2011, 07:49 AM
You don't want to send them to Martin with your bow. Chances are pretty good that you won't get them back, but I can understand you wanting to send them a message. Glad you played guinea pig and got both brass and nylon. Now we know that nylon doesn't work as well. And just to help everybody out just where did you find them and what was the approx cost?

I'm lucky I guess. Have a Fastenal store about two miles from my house. 20 or so archery clubs within 35 miles---3D season is going to start soon. Two good proshops within 35 miles---Kinseys and Lancaster. No floods. No hurricanes or tornadoes. No wildfires, earthquakes, or mudslides. What's not to like about this area?

I didn't think to send them with an explanation. My bow is all boxed up and ready to go. I seem to be the only one who has had bolts back out so I doubt they would add them.

I bought them from McMaster-Carr. Both types and shipping were about $18 if I remember correctly. Either brass tipped steel (like you have) or the solid cupped brass (like I have) will be the most durable IMO. I wish they had solid round tip brass but they don't.

I the nylon pad were thicker than 3/16" I think they would work best as they are designed for vibration. They did have some solid nylon set screws but they were expensive and I didn't know if I would get the required pressure needed?

You are very lucky to have all those stores/shops near you. Thank God for the Internet and UPS! I might have to move there and be your neighbor! PA sounds expensive, and I don't think I could talk the wife into the winters. :o

bfisher
05-05-2011, 03:01 PM
I didn't think to send them with an explanation. My bow is all boxed up and ready to go. I seem to be the only one who has had bolts back out so I doubt they would add them.

I bought them from McMaster-Carr. Both types and shipping were about $18 if I remember correctly. Either brass tipped steel (like you have) or the solid cupped brass (like I have) will be the most durable IMO. I wish they had solid round tip brass but they don't.

I the nylon pad were thicker than 3/16" I think they would work best as they are designed for vibration. They did have some solid nylon set screws but they were expensive and I didn't know if I would get the required pressure needed?

You are very lucky to have all those stores/shops near you. Thank God for the Internet and UPS! I might have to move there and be your neighbor! PA sounds expensive, and I don't think I could talk the wife into the winters. :o

Cost of living isn't much more than down your way. Besides, if I told your wife how many malls are around here she might jump at the chance and you'd have to temper your buying archery gear. You'd be one poor puppy.

MLN1963
05-06-2011, 04:45 AM
Sounds good to me Barry, but I think it will take more than malls to get momma away from her family. :( I'll work on it though! :cool:

bbjavelina
05-24-2011, 04:23 AM
If you're having trouble finding the special setscrews, you may want a cheaper alternative.

Drop a airgun pellet or an appropriate sized lead shot in the hole then put a regular setscrew down hard on top of it. We do this all the time at work and they work great.

Best of luck to you.

peace
05-26-2011, 11:42 AM
I love to tinker and this has been one good tinkering thread, the set screw idea is cool, and then the idea of a plastic pellet or ball bearing to use a regular set screw, money saving, love it, thanks fellas.

MLN1963
05-26-2011, 11:56 AM
I love to tinker and this has been one good tinkering thread, the set screw idea is cool, and then the idea of a plastic pellet or ball bearing to use a regular set screw, money saving, love it, thanks fellas.

Do not use a steel ball bearing or you will mash your threads down and be in for a real treat when it comes time to back the bolt out! I noticed that the BBs for BB guns aren't copper anymore, they are aluminum. I will try squeezing one in some pliers to see if it is a soft alloy. If it is they may work well too.

boobowbender
05-27-2011, 12:55 PM
Went to fastenal to get those brass tipped set screws and it happened that a bow tech worked there? He advised me not to use set screws in case they could possibly damage my limb bolts. He recommended blue loctite instead.
He also insisted I stop letting out the limb bolts to twist my cables. Insisted it was hard on my bow and things change everytime I let them out and run into more problems down the road. I did get invited to his house though to use his press and teach me some stuff:cool: I don't know his truck did have hoyt stickers on it, is he right about harming my bow?

MLN1963
05-27-2011, 01:30 PM
You can take this advise for what it cost you, nothing. This "bow tech" is clueless.

A press is nice but turning the fastners isn't hurting or wearing anything out. He just doesn't have that option with his bow so he doesn't know any better. I wonder how highly his employer, Fastenal, would think of him knowing he has no faith in a bolt? :rolleyes:

boobowbender
05-27-2011, 02:47 PM
whats different about martin that lets us do this?

Destroyer
05-27-2011, 03:43 PM
He advised me not to use set screws in case they could possibly damage my limb bolts.

Use nylon tip set screws.

MLN1963
06-23-2011, 06:29 AM
I'm still experiencing this. I can shoot as little as 20-25 shots and the bolts will back out about 30*-40*. This is with the set screws in place. Both brass and nylon tipped. It is really starting to annoy the hell out of me.

gravedigger
06-23-2011, 06:36 AM
i bet.that sucks.i guess im a lucky one with no problems on my bow,as of right now that is:rolleyes:

MLN1963
06-23-2011, 07:19 AM
It is annoying as hell!

bfisher
06-23-2011, 04:06 PM
Don't know what else to tell ya. I thought we had this problem solved. I guess your bow is an exception. There must be some vibration you're not feeling.

MLN1963
06-23-2011, 05:38 PM
That is the thing Barry. Earlier I posted that I wasn't even firing it, just doing draw cycles to settle the peep and the bolts backed out. So it happens at slow speeds or fast. I just don't get it. :confused::mad:

Speedykills
06-23-2011, 06:53 PM
That is the thing Barry. Earlier I posted that I wasn't even firing it, just doing draw cycles to settle the peep and the bolts backed out. So it happens at slow speeds or fast. I just don't get it. :confused::mad:

I thought you got it fixed guess i was wrong............Ok this what you need to do take some gas line teflon tape wrap it about 4-6 times around limb bolt then put back together go slow until you get to your poundage,once your set pull off remaining tape,should be nice and tight.

Destroyer
06-23-2011, 07:57 PM
I wasn't even firing it, just doing draw cycles to settle the peep and the bolts backed out

Normally its the vibration that cause them to move. :confused:

cjchasman
06-24-2011, 03:50 AM
This situation must be discouraging.
Have you asked Martin to replace the entire hardware set including all male/female threaded items? Roto's, bolts etc.

MLN1963
08-02-2011, 07:48 AM
I called Joel up at Martin customer service and he sent me out new limb bolts and barrel nuts. He was as surprised as me that the bolts continue to back out with setscrews to hold them.

Yesterday I got around to installing the items. My original set came from Martin coated in a tacky red grease. I have been lubing them up with a white lithium based gun grease since as is in the house and handy. I reapplied the grease and reassembled the bow minus set screws. I marked the screws with a couple dots from a paint pen. I shot it and within 25 shots the bolts were starting to back out. @%^$#&&*@^@!!!!! Not quite as bad as before but they were moving. :mad:

This morning I pulled it all apart again and I removed all the grease from the barrel nut threads and limb bolts with brake cleaner. If there is any lube it is very minute! I will shoot it today and see if that helps keep them in place. I like having them coated to help with rust but I have to figure this out and soon! If this doesn't work I am plumb out of ideas. I am apparently the only person with this problem. :confused:

Do any of you guys mark your bolts and keep an eye on them? Maybe they are moving and you just don't know it?

Arrow Splitter
08-02-2011, 07:52 AM
I haven't watched mine, but my DW hasn't changed.

elkslayer4x5
08-02-2011, 08:12 AM
None of my limb bolts are moving.

MLN1963
08-02-2011, 08:26 AM
ES

How can you be positive of that, are you marking them?

bfisher
08-02-2011, 09:31 AM
I had a 2006 P3 that did this. Of course I never shoot my bows with the bolts bottomed. One day I was practicing and at 20 yards the poi kept going down and down. It finally settled about 8" low and I'd had enough. Started checking things out and found that the top limb bolt was backing out. That's where I got the idea of the set screws in the side of the barrel nuts. After that I had no problems. It's simply vibration that causes it.

droppixel
08-02-2011, 09:38 AM
Ever figure this out? I have marked mine with a pencil, but am thinking of putting a white dot from a paint marker on mine just to see if this is an issue with my bow also.

MLN1963
08-02-2011, 11:57 AM
I shot it about 45 times and it seems to have stayed put, but it is hard to tell, they might have moved ever so slightly. If I put another 50 or so through it I should be able to tell if they are staying put or not.

It is 108* outside so I had to take a break, the sweat was running into my eyes faster than I could shoot!

MLN1963
08-02-2011, 04:31 PM
Shot a few more arrows in the now 110* heat. They are definitely backing out, but not to the same extent as the old bolts. So the lube may have been contributing to the backing out but not all of it. I haven't tried it with the bolts cranked all the way in either. Bottom line is I have a problem still, just not as pronounced.

Ehunter
08-02-2011, 05:08 PM
MLN, not sure if this will work or not, but worth a try. They make an automotive anti-seize that is designed for headbolts on a motor. It's a combination anti-seize and threadlock. If it'll keep headbolts from working loose, it should keep your limb bolts in place. Good thing about it is, it's pretty easy to remove as well. It'll also rust proof your bolts. Not sure what the name of it is, but I know they make it. I'll try to find out the name tomorrow if I can.

MLN1963
08-02-2011, 05:52 PM
Eh

Not to sound like a know-it-all but I'm pretty sure that won't work. Here is the reason. A head bolt is torqued to a certain value. That value stretches the bolt and retains the "grip" on the threads which is why it doesn't back out. Don't torque it enough and it will back out. If I ran full poundage on my bow it very well could work. But once I back it off a turn or two the stretch is gone and I don't "think" it would make any difference from what I have now.

What gets me is I am the only one with this situation and I don't understand why? :confused:

Destroyer
08-02-2011, 07:57 PM
I haven't tried it with the bolts cranked all the way in either.

Would be worth a try, that or Nylon Tipped Socket Set Screws. My old PSE Mojo had them and man was it needed, the worst hand shocking vibration making bow ever made! :eek:

MLN1963
08-02-2011, 08:56 PM
But I don't shoot maxed out so it is really not a good solution. Just as the set screws are a band-aid fix. I want to know why I am the only one of the hundreds on this forum that is experiencing this oddity?

Destroyer
08-02-2011, 10:43 PM
I want to know why I am the only one of the hundreds on this forum that is experiencing this oddity?

More likely just a manufacturing issue, like my shadowcat limbs. ;)

bfisher
08-03-2011, 02:19 AM
Just a suggestion, but check cam timing. If they aren't perfectly synced it causes extra vibration.

MLN1963
08-03-2011, 07:20 AM
Barry

I'm no expert but I think the timing is as good as it can be. I have it set that I can't get it any closer, a half twist is too much at this point. The bow doesn't seem to vibrate or have any shock to me.

MLN1963
08-03-2011, 07:21 AM
More likely just a manufacturing issue, like my shadowcat limbs. ;)

With the exception of the riser, cables and string everything else on this bow has been replaced by Martin.

bfisher
08-03-2011, 07:22 AM
Barry

I'm no expert but I think the timing is as good as it can be. I have it set that I can't get it any closer, a half twist is too much at this point. The bow doesn't seem to vibrate or have any shock to me.

OK, so we can rule that out. Being a humorous guy I was thinking it just can't handle the heat down your way. Those are some nasty temperatures.

I don't know how much you play around changing draw weight. But I wonder if some #242 Loctite would work. It seems you've tried about everything else.

MLN1963
08-03-2011, 08:11 AM
Barry

I think 242 would work but that doesn't get me to the root of the problem. I really want to figure this out. I honestly think there are more people with it but they don't mark there bolts and watch them.

I don't know if the heat affects the bow but it sure as shell affects me!

Mark

boobowbender
08-03-2011, 03:51 PM
yea mine still does it too, i just quit watching. best solution i could come up with. is 242 the blue stuff or something else

boobowbender
08-03-2011, 03:52 PM
never did try the set screws though, the guy at fastenal didn't want to sell them. thought about the lead pellet trick the one guy talked about and just buying regular set screws

Destroyer
08-03-2011, 07:06 PM
the guy at fastenal didn't want to sell them.

Why? :(

Without the set screws my old mojo wouldn't have been shootable!

MLN1963
08-03-2011, 08:30 PM
I shot a lot today with the limb bolts tight and they didn't move. Set screws might work with these parts. However I may just keep shooting it maxed out. With a little more shooting and some sore muscles I think I will be able to keep it maxed out. I hate to do this but I need to get consistent since hunting season is fast upon me.

Destroyer
08-04-2011, 03:13 PM
How much extra # is it now?

MLN1963
08-05-2011, 07:00 AM
Destroyer
I went up about 7 pounds to maxed out according to my cheap scale.

Sonny
I marked the bolt heads. I have pictures in my profile if you would like to take a look. Maybe not with dial up. I marked the bolt heads and the washers originally and then I found out they can turn or move when you take the bow apart. Since then I use the split in the end of the limb and a mark on the limb bolt as they are constants.

I know it is flat crazy that I would have two sets that move but that is God's honest truth. Clarifiation time. I have had movement when the bolts weren't seated completely. I started out running around 52 pounds when I first got the bow. I was at 55-56 prior to and after installing the new hardware. I have since run max poundage (62-63) and I don't have any problems other than some muscles that are getting used to the extra poundage. I can draw it fine and it will only get easier with time. I honestly think that set screws might stop any movement with this set of bolts and barrel nuts. However, now that I have everything sighted for the new draw weight I'm not going to go back and try it. I have other issues I have to work out and I am flat sick of working on this bow but I won't go into that right now!

Destroyer
08-05-2011, 03:38 PM
I have since run max poundage (62-63) and I don't have any problems other than some muscles that are getting used to the extra poundage.

7# is a bit of a jump especially with cats. Whats your accuracy like, any noticeable change?

MLN1963
08-05-2011, 06:35 PM
7# is a bit of a jump especially with cats. Whats your accuracy like, any noticeable change?

I think I am used to it now. Accuracy is something I don't have just yet as I'm fairly new and too inconsistent. However, I did Robin hood an arrow today and ruined 2 others so maybe the accuracy will eventually get there. If I could shoot half as many Xs as Sonny I would be very happy. Very happy!

http://martinarchery.com/mtechforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3756&d=1312587566

Destroyer
08-05-2011, 09:43 PM
Need to be shooting at separate dots me think! ;)

elkslayer4x5
08-06-2011, 06:17 AM
ES

How can you be positive of that, are you marking them?

Yes, the bolt head, bezel and limbs are all marked with a paint pen

gravedigger
08-06-2011, 06:32 AM
none of my limb bolts have ever mover on my bengal.i keep good markes on them too

christer
08-08-2011, 12:07 AM
I have this problem with my scepter and my razorx.The limb bolts are backed out one ore two turns not more.I fixed it with stop screws and lead as mentioned.

boobowbender
08-08-2011, 04:38 PM
just installed four brass tipped set screws, we'll see yet tonight after the boy goes to bed. Warning : DO NOT PUT LOC TITE IN THE BARREL NUT FOR THE LIMB BOLTS! the grease and the loc tite gummed the threads pretty bad, couldn;t get the set screws started. First time ever had the bow completely apart kinda scary but it should still work i hope. it took an awful lot of work to get the threads cleaned out using the set screws to go completely through the nut and then putting the bow back together.

MLN1963
08-08-2011, 04:58 PM
Are you sure it was the Loctite? Most are Anaerobic and won't harden with the presence of air. If it was in the side area it shouldn't have hardened? :confused:

I used solid brass screws that had the conical tip. Are yours steel with a brass pad? Those might work better.

BTW I haven't had anymore problems since I removed all the grease and run the bow at max poundage.

boobowbender
08-09-2011, 09:46 AM
steel sets with brass tip, seemed to have worked. the stuff gunking up the threads was an off white yellowish color.

daiwateampenn
03-16-2013, 09:11 PM
i dig out this old post becoz i now realize my limb bolt does move like what happen to thread starter.

would like to ask. wat is the size of the screw to lock the limb bolt? my hardware shop here very limited to type of screw.

the limb bolt movement just making insanse... need to adjust after a round or two of shooting.

bfisher
03-18-2013, 05:30 PM
i dig out this old post becoz i now realize my limb bolt does move like what happen to thread starter.

would like to ask. wat is the size of the screw to lock the limb bolt? my hardware shop here very limited to type of screw.

the limb bolt movement just making insanse... need to adjust after a round or two of shooting.

1/4X20 is the thread pattern. It can also be read as 1/4NC.

daiwateampenn
03-18-2013, 06:27 PM
Thanks Barry,


i will look around my hardware shop this coming weekend.

thank again.