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cronk49
04-06-2011, 11:42 AM
2009 martin cheetah. took some tension off limbs yesterday and have developed a "click" "tink" noise on the lower limb when i come to full draw. It is definitely audible and if i can hear it then the animals can hear it. don't know how to get rid of it. have adjusted the tension back and forth several times and nothing i do gets rid of the click. could this be a sign of limb fatigue because i shoot it at least 2-4 times a week for anywhere between 40-100 times

archerx7
04-06-2011, 01:06 PM
Sounds like it may be in the roto cup since it didn't do it untill you changed draw weight. A couple other possabilities would be a cam bearing going bad or a bearing in the ccs if your bow is equipped with it.

martinbowhunter
04-06-2011, 01:17 PM
I could be very wrong, but just tryna help. Check to make sure your draw stop peg is tight.

Hutch~n~Son Archery
04-06-2011, 01:52 PM
Have someone put their ear next to it when you are drawing it back. My sons bow clicked and it was the module clicking when he drew back. But an extra set of ears would help.

Hutch:cool:

cronk49
04-06-2011, 02:31 PM
thanks for your replies will use ur info and see if i can locate the problem

Simple Life
04-06-2011, 02:37 PM
Welcome to the forum cronk49,hope you find the problem.

SL

cronk49
04-06-2011, 02:45 PM
well using three sets of ears the noise is definently coming from the limb/draw wt. screw. do i need to get a new round plastic cap thing that goes over the hole? tks rj

martinbowhunter
04-06-2011, 02:57 PM
well using three sets of ears the noise is definently coming from the limb/draw wt. screw. do i need to get a new round plastic cap thing that goes over the hole? tks rj

I'm gonna guess your talking about the draw stop? If you are, then yes i would go get another plastic cap or you could use shrink tubing, the ones electricians use. Also is that "pad" thing still there on your limb? Could you post a pic?

justin
04-07-2011, 03:29 AM
i think he meant limb bolt..... i guess you can make sure nothing is moving and look for interfereance. i would also try turning your bold back in one half turn and see if it ngoes away, and repeat. also just because, inspect the fork in your limbs regularly. getting them changed out it they crack is way better than catastrophic limb failure!!

cronk49
04-07-2011, 05:33 AM
your right justin. it is around the limb bolt area.. best thing i can think of is take it to a pro shop and let them try and figure out if it the bolt or the limb. thanks to everyone for the info, really appreciate. great forum
ross

HawgEnvy
04-07-2011, 06:09 AM
welcome to the forum,cronk49. Stick around for awhile. Knowledge on tap!

Arrow Splitter
04-07-2011, 06:12 AM
Welcome to the Martin Tech Forum cronk49!!:cool::cool:

A.S

bfisher
04-07-2011, 02:58 PM
It could be several things being that it's in the area of the limb bolt. The best way to tackle the problem is to disassemble the bow and clean and grease everything. If it's done at a shop then the same applies. Back out the limb bolts or use a press enough to remove the string and the pressure from the limbs. Remove the limb bolt and bezel (that thick countersunk washer between the limb and limb bolt). Remove the Roto Cup. Clean all mating surfaces with alcohol and apply white lithium grease to them. Don't forget a dab on those little flat buttons between the Roto-cup and limbs. Apply a little on the flat side of the bezel where it sits on the limb. Apply a little to the countersunk portion of the head of the limb bolt and to the threads.

While you're this far you may as well do both ends of the riser. Before putting the limbs and limb bolts back on make sure the Roto-cup can be rotated freely in the riser. It should not stick.

Something I do when I get a new bow is tear it completely apart. Axles, cams, e-clips. Limbs, rockers (Roto-cups), limb bolts, barrel nuts, everything. Then I throw it on a pile in the middle of the floor. I use a dial caliper and micrometer to check everything I can and then put it all back together, applying grease to any and all mating surfaces. Set the string and cables to spec, measure the draw length and draw weight. People often ask me why I do this as they deem it to be done at the factory. Well, now maybe you are experiencing why I do it. Maybe it's overkill and maybe not, but once done by me then I know it's done right. It's also a great way to just plain learn how to work on a bow. Learn by doing.

gibson 787
04-07-2011, 03:24 PM
It could be several things being that it's in the area of the limb bolt. The best way to tackle the problem is to disassemble the bow and clean and grease everything. If it's done at a shop then the same applies. Back out the limb bolts or use a press enough to remove the string and the pressure from the limbs. Remove the limb bolt and bezel (that thick countersunk washer between the limb and limb bolt). Remove the Roto Cup. Clean all mating surfaces with alcohol and apply white lithium grease to them. Don't forget a dab on those little flat buttons between the Roto-cup and limbs. Apply a little on the flat side of the bezel where it sits on the limb. Apply a little to the countersunk portion of the head of the limb bolt and to the threads.

While you're this far you may as well do both ends of the riser. Before putting the limbs and limb bolts back on make sure the Roto-cup can be rotated freely in the riser. It should not stick.

Something I do when I get a new bow is tear it completely apart. Axles, cams, e-clips. Limbs, rockers (Roto-cups), limb bolts, barrel nuts, everything. Then I throw it on a pile in the middle of the floor. I use a dial caliper and micrometer to check everything I can and then put it all back together, applying grease to any and all mating surfaces. Set the string and cables to spec, measure the draw length and draw weight. People often ask me why I do this as they deem it to be done at the factory. Well, now maybe you are experiencing why I do it. Maybe it's overkill and maybe not, but once done by me then I know it's done right. It's also a great way to just plain learn how to work on a bow. Learn by doing.

Wise actions Baz, time consuming, but can end up saving time in the long run. ;)

cronk49
04-08-2011, 06:06 AM
bfisher
thanks for your input. i'm pretty sure that its in the limb bolt. had someone else listen to the bow on full draw and they said the noise was coming from that area. i don't have a bow press or the knowledge that most of you have. just got into bowhunting in 2009 so my knowledge is a little on the weak side. lol. on the other hand i do like tinkerin with my toys, guns bows and fishing gear until i think it is spot on. guess that's the AR side of me, but reading the info u guys give bewilders me. so much knowledge and so little time. again thanks for the info. it really has helped me. now off to the pro shop for repairs.
thanks ross

elkslayer4x5
04-08-2011, 08:11 AM
It's not all that difficult to do as Barry suggested, and there is no better way to learn how to work on a bow than to jump in and do it. They're simple machines, and Martins are easier than most others because you don't need a bow press to take the string off. When I got my first Martin, I lived 2 hours away from the nearest pro shop, made that trip once, and found this board after that trip, been here ever since, and have learned tons. :)

Buggles
04-08-2011, 04:38 PM
I had the same noise on my onza3 it was the limb bolt. Then you can roll the string off and undo the cable. Do this on a table with a helper is useful. then back the bolt out, put some grease on it and reassemble. No more noise. As others have said it is a great way to learn about your bow.
Cheers,
Craig

Buggles
04-08-2011, 04:40 PM
Woops second sentence disappeared.
Should say undo the limb bolt until you can see through the barrel nut, ie leave it screwed into the barrel nut but only in one side.