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boobowbender
04-19-2011, 07:47 AM
is this something i can check by myself with out a draw board? or press. My bow is loud but shoots really well. I will try to have my girl take pics of cams while at full draw if i have to. i cant post pics for now for you guys to inspect

mudpig
04-19-2011, 08:45 AM
A little trip down to your local home builder supply shop (Lowes/Homedepot) and for about $20, you can build a draw board. List: 1-2x6, 1-aluminum yardstick, 1-1x6" threaded pipe, 1-threaded 1" floor mount for pipe, and 1-ratchet locking pulley with rope. I got all this stuff from the local homedepot for right at $20. I cut the 2x6 down to about 6'. Part of the waste (6x6) chunk, I screwed down to the middle of the board so I could mount this in my bench vise. At one end, I drilled a 3/8" whole to put the dead end of the rope thru. I mounted the yardstick about 3" from the other end of the board, then screwed the floor mount threaded pipe fixture over the top of the yardstick so that the edge of the pipe where the bow grip will rest was at the 1-3/4" mark.

Now you can take your time and really see what the cams are doing, or your rest, or cables or whatever are doing at any point in the draw, and can make a measurement of your DL and if you insert a bow scale in the mix you can get your exact pull at any point as well. I've got a few pics of my draw board in my albulm.

SonnyThomas
04-19-2011, 09:13 AM
Mudpig gave a good reply. Being perfectly lazy I have a rope attached to the ceiling joice of my garage and have a "S" hook on it. I hang the bow by the string at the arrow nock location. I draw the bow down slowly to watch the cams rotated to the draw stops and then make adjustments. To measure draw length, I also have steel tape measure that has a 1" loop on the end - it's made that way. I hang the loop on the "S" behind the bow string, but have the tape through the rest area. Here, you can measure to the Berger hole which is close to the deepest part of the grip or so close you can eye ball the difference. I do have a bow scale for checking draw weight, but a house hold step on weight scale can be employed. I notched a 3 foot steel rod, but a old broom handle would work. Notched at the nocking point push the bow down and read the scale.

boobowbender
04-19-2011, 10:38 AM
thanks sunny and mudpig!
after further reviewmy top cam IS just slightly faster than the bottom and according to nuts and bolts i must remove twist from one of the cable on the top cam.
Which cable? the one on the top outside portion of the cam or the one on the inside nearer the axle?
is an 1/8 of an inch make much difference? difference in cables touching flat spot that is. this is the cam that kept rattling screws loose yesterday
next question: Is measuring draw weight that important? I have a 70 lb bow but usually only pull 60 or a couple pounds more. can pull more but arrow selection gets iffy at about 64 or 65 lbs and i like to stay below that for comfort and longevity.

I know, I know lots of questions that take lengthy answers. I TRY to be a perfectionist sometimes mostly when i can help it

mudpig
04-19-2011, 10:52 AM
You want to twist the upper cable that attaches to the outter part of the cam, not the inner part by the hub. I full twist will probably do it for you, but you will need to recheck after making any changes.
If you are not close to max draw weight and you are not making major twist changes to your cables, I don't think that you need to know the exact weight of draw. If you had your limbs maxed out and you were making drastic changes of cable length, then you would need to make sure that you were not exceeding the max rated poundage. General concensus seems to be that if you have a 60# bow maxed out and it's 60-63# actual draw weight that you are ok, but not to go any higher. Going higher than this will put stresses into the limbs that they were not designed to take and limb failure will result.

boobowbender
04-19-2011, 12:42 PM
You want to twist the upper cable that attaches to the outter part of the cam, not the inner part by the hub. I full twist will probably do it for you, but you will need to recheck after making any changes.
If you are not close to max draw weight and you are not making major twist changes to your cables, I don't think that you need to know the exact weight of draw. If you had your limbs maxed out and you were making drastic changes of cable length, then you would need to make sure that you were not exceeding the max rated poundage. General concensus seems to be that if you have a 60# bow maxed out and it's 60-63# actual draw weight that you are ok, but not to go any higher. Going higher than this will put stresses into the limbs that they were not designed to take and limb failure will result.
okay i tried 1 twist and then another, hasn't seemed to do anything do i need to shoot it to see what happens. does it need shooting for the twist to stretch out?
Is okay i don't have a press and just leaned on it to make my cables come loose?

justin
04-19-2011, 05:01 PM
that sounds scary.... dont do that!!!

boobowbender
04-19-2011, 06:35 PM
that sounds scary.... dont do that!!!

any good way without a press then?

cyclepath
04-19-2011, 08:12 PM
A little trip down to your local home builder supply shop (Lowes/Homedepot) and for about $20, you can build a draw board. List: 1-2x6, 1-aluminum yardstick, 1-1x6" threaded pipe, 1-threaded 1" floor mount for pipe, and 1-ratchet locking pulley with rope. I got all this stuff from the local homedepot for right at $20. I cut the 2x6 down to about 6'. Part of the waste (6x6) chunk, I screwed down to the middle of the board so I could mount this in my bench vise. At one end, I drilled a 3/8" whole to put the dead end of the rope thru. I mounted the yardstick about 3" from the other end of the board, then screwed the floor mount threaded pipe fixture over the top of the yardstick so that the edge of the pipe where the bow grip will rest was at the 1-3/4" mark.

Now you can take your time and really see what the cams are doing, or your rest, or cables or whatever are doing at any point in the draw, and can make a measurement of your DL and if you insert a bow scale in the mix you can get your exact pull at any point as well. I've got a few pics of my draw board in my albulm.
If you can find some of those pics can you post some for us? Thanks.

that sounds scary.... dont do that!!!

PRICELESS

rock
04-20-2011, 01:40 AM
take a little time to learn your bow if you want to work on your own you can get a bow master portable bow press... how did you put two twists in the cable with out pressing the bow???

mudpig
04-20-2011, 05:38 AM
Cyclepath, If you look on my member page, look at my albulm and you will see pics of the bow press that I made.2587

MLN1963
04-20-2011, 06:30 AM
Cyclepath, If you look on my member page, look at my albulm and you will see pics of the bow press that I made.

I looked and only saw pictures of your draw board. There were no pics of a bow press?

mudpig
04-20-2011, 06:48 AM
Dooooohhhhh!!!!!! :eek:

Middle age brain fart...Typo.....can I use any other excuse. The draw board I built and is shown in pics. My bow press is one of the cable portable units. I can't remember the name of the manufacure, but it works great and is portable and if my poor memory serves me right....ummm....uhhhh....it was $50.

MLN1963
04-20-2011, 07:08 AM
Mudpig

How does the ratcheting pulley work? How far is between each tooth on the ratchet? How do you draw the bow, pull the knotted end of the rope? How hard is that to pull on a 70 pound bow? How hard is it to let back down after being at full draw?

mudpig
04-20-2011, 07:26 AM
Mudpig

How does the ratcheting pulley work? How far is between each tooth on the ratchet? How do you draw the bow, pull the knotted end of the rope? How hard is that to pull on a 70 pound bow? How hard is it to let back down after being at full draw?

MLN... The ratchet lever is just above the ratchet wheel and under the hook. Pulling on the knotted end will pull the bow back and each ratchet notch is about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch of bow draw. The pull weight, due to the single pulley is 1/2 the actual draw weight, so it isn't too bad to pull or let down with a 70# bow. The ratchet release lever is pushed forward after putting tention on the rope, then holding that lever you back it back down.

MLN1963
04-20-2011, 07:34 AM
I wonder if a double pulley would allow less distance between each click of the ratchet or if it would just reduce the pull force?

mudpig
04-20-2011, 08:33 AM
I would think that it would do both

cyclepath
04-20-2011, 10:41 AM
Dooooohhhhh!!!!!! :eek:

Middle age brain fart...Typo.....can I use any other excuse. The draw board I built and is shown in pics. My bow press is one of the cable portable units. I can't remember the name of the manufacure, but it works great and is portable and if my poor memory serves me right....ummm....uhhhh....it was $50.

I checked out your pics and I saw the draw board however I don't have a clue as to how that thing would work. How and where do you put the bow? Any chance you could set it up with a bow with pics so we can see how it works? Kinda like a draw board for dummies. Also, I saw some pics of your limbs and they had the # 3h on them. Mine have a 4h. Do you know what the difference is?

mudpig
04-20-2011, 11:15 AM
I will try and get a new pic up and posted with the bow on it. The bow grip sits on the top side of the black post at the front of the draw board and then the hook goes into the D loop. The black loop string there on the board is my safety loop, just in case the D loop were to fail. The 3H on my limb is the deflection number for my 60# bow. My 70# bow has 5L limbs on it. These numbers are relative poundage numbers. On different bows, they mean differnt draw weights. I have been told that for each number you change, you are changing the weight by 5# (3-4-5), and the letters are 2 or 3 pound variations (L-M-H).
If that's way off I'm sure one of the more knowledgable guys here will get things straightened out.