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HawgEnvy
05-17-2011, 06:40 AM
I just removed the coin from the Cheetah using the hair dryer. I put a metal pick under the edge of the coin and pryed lightly as I was heating and it popped right off. I used nail polish remover to soften the adhesive(which didn't work). I scraped the adhesive off w a flat screwdriver. The nail polish remover immediately bubbled the finish and took it down to bare aluminum. I think the easiest way to remove the finish will be to rub the riser down w acetone. It'll make it a quick job.

NOTE: I will NOT be using acetone on the limbs and don't recommend anyone doing so. That could be costly.

However, I need input on removing the finish from the limbs. I'm thinking an 800 grit sand paper followed up by 1200 grit to smooth it all out. Opinions/suggestions?

I'm still debating on the final finish. An automotive paint with a flat clear would be plenty durable and look nice. There isn't anywhere close to me that does hydrographics. There are powdercoaters in the area that I will be contacting soon.

I'm open to all thoughts,opinions,suggestions on the process and even the color scheme. I've got several ideas,but those are subject to change.

Arrow Splitter
05-17-2011, 07:00 AM
Here's a thread that I started a while back on the "Other" forum:http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1326357&page=1
I haven't refinished my bow yet though.

HawgEnvy
05-17-2011, 09:06 AM
thanks for the link. Some good info there. Anyone else?

cjchasman
05-17-2011, 09:53 AM
You may want to consider 3M abrasive pads/ Scotch Brite Pads for some stripping. Just google them for info. They conform to grooves, curves and edges easier. Also I was wondering about the Limb finish. You will need something that will handle the vibration and flex with out cracking the finish. I believe some finishes are rated w/ a solids content. The lower the solids the more flexible but w/ less shine. More solids, more brittle w/ higher shine/gloss. A good paint shop should be able to help.

gravedigger
05-17-2011, 10:17 AM
so the nail polish remover did not eat the glue,man i thought for sure it would work.and a big suprise it ate the finish.sorry i led ya in the wrong direction.maybe i will test things on my bow befor i bring on my big ideas.lol.i dont know what to do about the limbs,they are scary to work with

HawgEnvy
05-17-2011, 02:34 PM
yup. Polish remover ate the finish. Which is fine. No problem there. It just saved me from having to buy paint stripper. The glue isn't really a glue. It's more like it was a drop of melted rubber that the coin was pressed into. The VEM's pushed through the riser w/o issue and will easily pop back in. The grip was a major PIA to get off. That alone took 45min. I don't know how people are having problems w theirs sliding. It's mind boggling how well it was on there.

the limbs I just sanded for about 45min ea. Under the camo it looks like a urethane primer. I left that instead of taking it down to bare glass.

so far it's coming along smoothly. It took longer to get the grip off than it did to completely strip the rest of the bow. I'm taking pics as I go(Hutch)and will get them up when I'm finished. So stay tuned.

Hutch,ill be hittin you up for a string soon.

cyclepath
05-17-2011, 02:52 PM
Good luck with your limbs. When I redid my other bow the limbs were dipped with camo, and since I am not a fan of camo so I decided to sand the limbs and paint them. What a pain the arse. Looking back I should have taken them in and had them cleaned and redipped. Next time I will do that. Anyway if you are looking for a good paint to use that is very flexable I used spray paint for vinyl car seats. No problems with chipping or flaking off.

HawgEnvy
05-17-2011, 03:05 PM
the limbs are turning out great. There getting there second coat of krylon in bout 10 more min. It's the same stuff I used on the vinyl dash of my truck and the door panels. It didn't crack,chip,peel or flake so I'm trying that for now.

wscywabbit
05-17-2011, 03:27 PM
Thanks for posting all this, I'm sure it'll be a big help to us "diy" people... As for the Krylon, I was reading through the post and was gonna suggest their Fusion paint but it looks like you beat me to the punch lol!

HawgEnvy
05-17-2011, 06:21 PM
it's my first bow project so bear with me. I try to do my homework before diving into things like this.

so far,ive got 2 lights coats on the limbs,then it started to rain. Hopefully tomorrow I can get a couple more coats on.

the riser is now fully stripped and sanded smooth and ready for paint. I had to leave the limb pockets on. The freakin bolts won't budge. I tried a little heat but didn't want to risk damage. I need to see bout getting new limb decals from Martin or decide if I want to airbrush the logo on the limbs.

Destroyer
05-17-2011, 08:28 PM
Powdercoat for the riser would be nice, tough.

HawgEnvy
05-18-2011, 05:58 AM
that it would be. I'm going to make some calls today for pricing. Any ideas as to cost? Fair price?

archerx7
05-18-2011, 06:35 AM
that it would be. I'm going to make some calls today for pricing. Any ideas as to cost? Fair price?

Not 100% positive, but I think spiker on here does powder coat work.

Arrow Splitter
05-18-2011, 06:55 AM
Not 100% positive, but I think spiker on here does powder coat work.

Yes he does.

A.S

MLN1963
05-18-2011, 07:49 AM
I had to leave the limb pockets on. The freakin bolts won't budge. I tried a little heat but didn't want to risk damage.

You aren't going to damage it with a propane torch. The thing most people do wrong with heating aluminum is not getting it hot enough. Aluminum is a great heat conductor and the heat is sucked into the area and travels away quickly. You really need to keep after it to get it to the same temp a piece of steel would get. Get after it again and you will get the results you want. That aluminum riser will expand more than the steel bolt and you will succeed. Provided you get it hot enough in that area!

*Edit*

Another thing that helps with heating aluminum. Set the riser out in the sun so it soaks up some heat or throw it in an oven at say 300* F. until it is heat soaked. Then immediately heat the area of the bolt up really good and you should have success. The reason for heat soaking the riser first is so the areas away from the limb bolts aren't stealing the heat way from the area where it's needed. That is what happens and causes people to give up too quickly with aluminum. The thicker or larger the part the longer it will take to heat it up.

HawgEnvy
05-18-2011, 09:32 AM
thanks for the info. I shouldve checked responses before laying the primer. It's looking really good though. I laid a couple more thin coats on each limb this morning. Let dry,then hit them with 1200 grit, washed and rinsed,let dry,hit them both again with a light coat,let dry,then wet sanded with 2000 grit.

the riser is going to get the same treatment. I called for pricing and I can get it p-coated for less than $20 but it's nearly an hours drive each way to drop off and pick up(4hrs driving time). So,for me,a good paint job is the most cost effective and quickest solution. Whatever cash I save on refinishing the bow,i can use for a new string and sights.

MartinMan
05-18-2011, 11:00 AM
I just removed the coin from the Cheetah using the hair dryer. I put a metal pick under the edge of the coin and pryed lightly as I was heating and it popped right off. I used nail polish remover to soften the adhesive(which didn't work). I scraped the adhesive off w a flat screwdriver. The nail polish remover immediately bubbled the finish and took it down to bare aluminum. I think the easiest way to remove the finish will be to rub the riser down w acetone. It'll make it a quick job.

NOTE: I will NOT be using acetone on the limbs and don't recommend anyone doing so. That could be costly.

However, I need input on removing the finish from the limbs. I'm thinking an 800 grit sand paper followed up by 1200 grit to smooth it all out. Opinions/suggestions?

I'm still debating on the final finish. An automotive paint with a flat clear would be plenty durable and look nice. There isn't anywhere close to me that does hydrographics. There are powdercoaters in the area that I will be contacting soon.

I'm open to all thoughts,opinions,suggestions on the process and even the color scheme. I've got several ideas,but those are subject to change.




They also sell the spray on paint removers. They work pretty good, you can watch the paint lift from the riser. One that i hear is really good is the Klean Strip Air Craft paint remover. Here is a link stating what it is an how its used if your interested. http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=72&prodid=135

Hutch~n~Son Archery
05-18-2011, 01:37 PM
HawgEnvy, are you going to paint this riser by hand or have someone spray it. Let me know. I painted cars for 28 years. I could give your some pointers, if you need any.

Hutch:cool:

gravedigger
05-18-2011, 01:40 PM
HawgEnvy, are you going to paint this riser by hand or have someone spray it. Let me know. I painted cars for 28 years. I could give your some pointers, if you need any.

Hutch:cool:


come on down to oregon and paint my big white runner for me will ya.oh and can you do body work too,its seen and shakin hands with a few trees.

HawgEnvy
05-18-2011, 02:13 PM
HawgEnvy, are you going to paint this riser by hand or have someone spray it. Let me know. I painted cars for 28 years. I could give your some pointers, if you need any.

Hutch:cool:


I'm planning on spraying it myself using my limited auto paint knowledge from when I was building my 4x4s.

I'm working on the riser now. About 5 post up I described my process. I'm always up for tips on how to do things better.

another thing I'll be doing,also. I was digging in my parts box and found a stainless steel stabilizer bushing. I'll be putting the riser in a drill press and drilling out the existing hole to the 7/16" diameter needed for the SS bushing.

Hutch~n~Son Archery
05-18-2011, 02:20 PM
HawgEnvy, that sounds real nice. Can't wait to see it.
pics pics pics pics pics pics pics pics pics pics pics pics pics

Hutch:cool:

HawgEnvy
05-18-2011, 03:43 PM
I'm taking pics along the way and will be starting build thread complete w step by step pics.

has anyone done any airbrushing? I could use some tips/info in that area.pics would be cool too.

Destroyer
05-18-2011, 03:58 PM
pics pics pics pics pics pics pics pics pics pics pics pics

X2

Lol! :D


I'm taking pics along the way and will be starting build thread complete w step by step pics..

Sweet.

MLN1963
05-18-2011, 04:49 PM
pics pics pics pics pics pics pics pics pics pics pics pics pics

Hutch:cool:

Now there is a real shocker! :p

HawgEnvy
05-20-2011, 09:01 AM
last night I drilled out the 5/16 stabilizer hole to 7/16 to accept the stainless steel bushing. Sharp drill bits made short work of it. This was done using 5 bits. Each one larger than the next.

this morning I laid the final coat of primer and let dry 30min. Then I scuffed it up w 320grit and rinsed and let dry. 1 full can of primer used. After drying I laid a couple thin coats of paint and let dry 30min. It's at this point that the flaws in the machine work became clear despite my efforts to remove what minor flaws I found while stripping the finish. I was worried about the final outcome of the paint. So far,the riser has 5 coats of paint,with 30min drying time and light sanding with 400 grit between coats.the machining flaws are becoming les apparent now,and I think it will turn out to my liking. Not perfectly flawless, but it's going to look good. Once assembled and accessories ,string/cables installed,the flaws will go un-noticed unless someone looks for the imperfections.

opinions needed: should I get the limb decals from Martin and maintain a factory appearance,or go total custom and have them airbrushed? I have no intentions of selling this bow,so resale value is a moot point.

cjchasman
05-20-2011, 09:31 AM
As for the limb decals...I would lean toward custom and the color combinations that come with it. Understated custom paint will do more for the overall look and will be pleasing to the eye. Factory labels will be an expected look w/ little WOW effect for the project.
Easy for me to say though; I'm not footin' the bill. ;)

bfisher
05-20-2011, 01:50 PM
I know it's a little late, but maybe one of you guys could be a guinea pig and try Zip Strip on a bow you wish to redo. It would probably save a lot of sanding and digging into all the crevices.

HawgEnvy
05-20-2011, 02:14 PM
as far as foootin the bill, I've got(this far) $7.86 into the project and it's nearly done. Another $5 tomorrow for a can of matte clear. I'll let it cure for a couple days before reassembly. In a couple weeks I'll be getting strings/cables to match the bow. This whole project will be done for less than $75:cool:

Hutch~n~Son Archery
05-20-2011, 02:17 PM
as far as foootin the bill, I've got(this far) $7.86 into the project and it's nearly done. Another $5 tomorrow for a can of matte clear. I'll let it cure for a couple days before reassembly. In a couple weeks I'll be getting strings/cables to match the bow. This whole project will be done for less than $75:cool:
Not bad at all Hawg! Keep I the good work

Hutch:cool:

HawgEnvy
05-20-2011, 03:17 PM
Not bad at all Hawg! Keep I the good work

Hutch:cool:

you too when you build my strings, Mister.

it helps keep costs down when you've got most items already on hand. If I had to buy everything to do this project,the initial investment would be pushing the $60-$70 mark already.

Destroyer
05-20-2011, 03:24 PM
try Zip Strip on a bow

A chemical stripper, nice and easy. ;)