So the spine isn't too weak then.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ehunter
And easy. If you can mark the sight for both you could adjust on the day even, done that before.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ehunter
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So the spine isn't too weak then.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ehunter
And easy. If you can mark the sight for both you could adjust on the day even, done that before.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ehunter
I use field points with adder points for shooting grouse/small game and practice stump shooting when out on hunting trips so I hate not having my broadheads hitting with field points.
Most recent time I had trouble getting the two heads hitting near the same place was with with my current Bengal.
Even though I typically used a 340 spine arrow, my old Firecat (69lbs, Ultra Sonic wheel) would shoot a 400 spine well also with either point.
Same 400 arrow out of my Bengal (65lb) is border line weak but shot 100gr and 125gr field points fine, but even 100gr broadhead on it seemed to act weak, planning off right or high right.
Got the 340's out with a 100grs point (still close to 12% FOC) and both heads started grouping together better. Only had move the arrow rest more in the direction of the field point group until they came together.......close range paper tune was not perfect after that, but I didn't care as long as I had good flight and groups
To me, FP's and BH's hitting a foot apart is not right.
Lets start at square one.
Can you post all your bow and arrow specs again.?
Something is just amiss if they wont shoot together at least out to 45-50yds.
"close range paper tune was not perfect after that, but I didn't care as long as I had good flight and groups"
After "super tuning" a setup, the paper tune goes right out the window. Thats why I only use it as a good starting point.
I agree that something ain't right, and that you shouldn't have to settle with BH and FP groups being so far apart. FWIW, I would start over. Paper tune it, then walk back tune it, then BH tune it and see what you get.
Its alot of work, I know. :(
Just a thought, but if the rest and nock point are both set too low, would the bow still tune properly? Just crossed my mind as I've seen a few people talk about barely clearing the TRG/SOS with their fletchings, and mine has plenty of clearance.
Yes, but how low are you talking about?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ehunter
Btw, do you have this same broadhead tuning problem with your other bows?
The middle of my D-loop is 1 1/16th below the bottom of the SOS. Roughly 15 1/2 inches from the bottom cam, and 13 1/2 from the top cam. The arrow does run parallel with the berger holes, but I'm thinking maybe everything needs to be a bit higher. I have room to move the nock point and rest up by at least 3/8ths of an inch. After shooting my Onza with BH's tonight, I noticed it is acting the same way. It's set up the exact same way as well. Tuned the same, nock point and rest the same heigth, etc. As for my other bows, I've had no problems at all getting good FP and BH flight out of them. They tuned in very easily.
Could be, I've had single cams bows tuning better if the arrow was above the berger.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ehunter
Something in that. Same rest on both bows?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ehunter
Maybe its just showing up the newer bows? Not so easy to tune.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ehunter
Destroyer, same rest on both bows. I did notice that both new bows seemed to be more of a pain to tune that my bows in the past. My '08 Moab was overly simple, and my old '09 FC I had was very easy as well. Thinking I may take the FC and raise everything 1/4 inch, see if that helps. If so, do the same with the Onza. Thanks again to everyone for all the help! Great bunch of guys we have here!
Sometimes you have to find the right BH,really has nothing to do with your bow being in tune.Some fly better than others i know my muzzy mx3 fly with my field points where if i threw on some slick tricks i had and they wouldnt.
So i would try a different BH if it were me.