This was asked by a guy on another forum
1. In the never ending quest for the ultimate in long range archery accuracy, all other things being equal, which is more critical, arrow straightness or uniformity of weight?
It would seem to me that varying weights would produce vertical “stringing” on the target (related to time-of-flight/velocity variations) while shafts with straightness issues (say .006” total indicated run out) would produce more rounded groupings.
2. On any given bow draw weight/draw length, will shafts of a slightly stiffer spine produce better groups than shafts of a slightly weaker spine or will the opposite be true?
Of course, answers submitted will require apt justification for given opinions!
and here is one of the answers
Straighter Arrows Shoot Straighter, Right?
http://www.huntersfriend.com/carbon_...ghtshooter.jpgFrom a pure physics standpoint, yes! Arrow straightness certainly does matter. Straighter arrows undeniably fly more accurately. In long-range laboratory conditions with a mechanical shooting machine, the straightest arrows with the best spine consistencies will always group best. But try to keep this issue in reasonable perspective. You are not a mechanical shooting machine. You don't shoot in laboratory conditions, and you probably don't shoot at extreme distances (100+ yards). The straightness difference in a ±.006" arrow and a ±.001" arrow is literally the width of a single human hair. So realistically, the ±.001" arrow probably has more to do with selling arrows than shooting arrows. The truth is, only a handful of the world's archers actually have enough shooting skill to differentiate between a very good ±.003" arrow and a "pro grade" ±.001" arrow. And within the typical bowhunting range, any difference would be practically imperceptible.
What do you think?
Very good points! In this age of marketing warfare people seem to really get hung up in the hype of specs. I admit that Im guilty as well. JMO but Id wadger to say that not to many of us will ever be able to shoot our equipment to its true potential.
.006 Boss! At least until I get a sponsor or something similar, I got kids to feed!
On number 1, I dont think either of them matter too much. .006 or .001 arrows fly the same for me and the magority of us on this forum. As or weight, I would tend to think that would have more effect. However, the difference in weight between arrows would have to be a minumum of 10 grains of greater between arrows to make any real difference at the distances we shoot.
Number 2, depends on the bow, Release of fingures. It also depends on if you really care about tuning. For example, shen I first started shooting archery I was getting groups of 1" at 30 and 40 yards with a GT 5575. When I got and shot my broadheads the where flying low and left, I didnt know anything about tuning at the time. After learning about tuning and trying to paper tune the arrows I found that I had to switch to a 340 or 300 spine arrow to get consistant flight with the broadheads. I could still shoot 1" groups the differance was the broadheads where following my field points much closer. So, no spine dont matter in compatition as much as in hunting.
Some pretty logical answers thus far and I tend to agree. There was a time when I could shoot well enough to tell the difference between .006 and .003, but not between .003" and .001". However, some of this difference might have been that the straighter arrows were of tighter tolerances all round, meaning weight and spine consistency. When I was on Gold Tip's staff they always sent me Pro series shafts
(.001"). Shooting a shorter draw length I always checked them and ended up cutting 2" off the nock end and the remainder off the point end. This has proven many times to yield a straighter shaft and supposedly being .001" to start with straightness was never an issue.
I did once have batch of Ultralite Entradas that spine consistancy just sucked. One arrow in particular I remember having spine deviation of .015". Just for s.... and giggles I tossed my 12 year old 3-28 ACC's in the spine tester and none varied more than .002". Maybe that's why they have always shot more consistently than AC arrows I've had. Therefore I'm going to vote spine consistency as the most important feature of an arrow.
As for weight, how many people really know how little 10 grains is? If the difference is in the shaft weight then it is spread out over the length of the shaft so would have little effect on accuracy, IMO. Now if the difference is at one end, say at the point (field tips suck) then that could change foc so I agree this could cause vertical stringing at realy long distances, but nothing extreme till shooting past 60 yards or so.
I once weighed a batch of Bohning 4" vanes. Most were about 8.8 grains, but there were quite a few that weighed over 12 grains and one that was over 15 grains. So much for quality control. Mix these up when fletching and see how it affects the total weight and more importantly the balance around the arrow.
Now as far as being underspined or overspined? With maybe the exception of having large diameter shafts for indoors there should not be any over or under issues. That's what tuning is all about. Choosing a shaft that is close to proper spine and then tuning properly you should end up with as perfect a spine as humanly possible for the particular application. And I've said it so many times, "That's one of the most overlooked purposes of limb bolts on a bow".
Wow, lots of good stuff in here! I gotta say that conversations like these are one of the reasons I love this site.
For my 2 cents, I'd have to say that first and foremost, 99% of us can not shoot well enough to use modern equipment to its full potential. Period. I'm humble enough to admit that my bows shoot way better than I do, and I can't fault them for my inconsistancies and mistakes.
That being said, you put any bow on a hooter shooter, in a contained environment, and start flinging arrows, it doesn't matter if the arrows are properly spined or if the bow is tuned, the same arrow will hit the same spot everytime. Now you start mixing arrows of different spines in a group, you'll get different results; those are variables we face in every batch of arrows. But that is also part of this question isn't it?
I think that average backyard shooters and hunters the variances in a pack of arrows isn't going to matter much. Competition and long range shooters are going to have to be a bit pickier and do their own QC. Of the two, I think I could live with a little more leeway in weight than in spine; I'd rather have a vertical variance when shooting at an animal than horizontal any day. But then that's obviously because I hunt! :)
Long range accuracy = one shot, one kill. years ago I decided with a rifle that with a rifle and my ability, 300 yards was it, and that is a very accurate Remington 700 ADL in .270 Winchester with a 3X9 Leupold on it. And that on a very solid rest. With archery tackle I define it as AMOA ( archery minute of angle), stating at 10 yards and using 1" per 10 yards of range if I can keep them inside of 6" groups at 40 yrds that's enough. I've got expensive arrows and not so expensive arrows and they all will work as far as I am able to shoot. As the instuctor said "make the first one count".
I cut from both ends and, at length, often get shafts which weigh within a grain. I'm happy with that. As far a straightness, I just can't tell the difference between .006 and .001. I always figured it was me.
I am fiddling around with spine right now in a way which totally removes it from the equation.
A lot of you all are saying you can't tell the difference in arrow straightness .001-.006. I honestly believe that "straightness" is #1, also spine and weight have increased my accuracy over the years at targets out over 60 yards. Yes hunting and or 3D make a difference in arrow & bow set up. I can't tell you how many set ups I have tried over the years (backyard engineer). If you're shooting a 70lbs bow with a 7' brace and a medium to long draw 29'+ a heavier arrow 400g+ and a spine of 350 or better I have found works for hunting large game. I have also shoot most of the major arrow brands out theirs and have considered that Easton gives me the best groupings and punch for the midrange priced arrow on the market. If folks are new to the sport, theirs so many web sights on arrow and the mechanics on the arrow and arrow flight for then to research. It all comes down to what set up feels and shoots best for the shooter and if price is an issue on choice. The best advise is stay with what works and don't change depending on the bow in use.
Thanks for posting guys.
Here are my findings. My shooting machine will put any arrow in the same hole every time. No matter how straight it is or isn't. With that being said I have taken 6 of the same arrows .003 and shot them through the machine. Only 2 hit together. Why? Same weights, lengths and tips. Reason they where not tuned. Once tuned the arrows grouped in a 2" circle. Now as for cheap Walmart arrows they where the same way. All over the board, once tuned they all hit in a 2 to 2.5 inch circle. Straightness has some importance but not to hunters. Only long range and target shooters would see or notice the difference. But as for the average Joe on the street it means nothing. I have shot both .003 and lesser ones and could put it in the bulls eye at 60 to 70 yards. Could I do it regularly with the lesser ones probably not. But once is all you need when you are hunting.